Knucklehead97

Hmm... I think I'll just spend the money on a new MC instead of rebuilding. But I can't find a place that sells Nabco... anyone know if Luk makes a good MC? i know their clutches are good but never heard anything about the MC's. And on an internal what type of fittings are used to attached the hydraulic line? I would love to go ahead and upgrade to the braided line but don't know much about fittings or flares or any of that.

And what about rebuilding the MC? Possibly a better option? And lastly can I just add fluid to it for now and not let it run dry? Just until I get the truck running good and can.worry about the MC and fuse box.

I've heard a lot about aftermarket MC's being crap... any reccomendations that won't break the bank? And where can I get a new MC to slave line? Thanks.

I found the back of my fuse block had some fluid on it. So did some fuses. So I immediately think the clutch MC is leaking. Here is an image of the inside of the MC and yes, my finger was clean before I stuck it in the fluid. If I have to change the MC, how hard is it? And will I have to bleed the entire system? It's got an internal slave so I hope this doesn't end in me taking out the transmission.

I want to keep the evap system for a little bit. I don't have emissions thankfully but doesn't the evap system help with gas mileage? I'll get this fixed up asap. Hoping it fixes it...

I am guessing that I don't have any leaks in fuel lines. Or the injectors and I'm sure the regulator is working right. Because the pressure stayed at 34 with the engine off for about an hour if not more before it started lowering down.

Its the one that connects to the metal line and goes under the truck. A pretty big vacuum leak seeing the size of that hole... what type of rubber line can I use for this and what size? Is fuel line required? Sounds like a pricey kind of line lol.

I currently don't have a welder. A friend offered to make me one though and I'm highly considering taking him up on it so we can make it really strong.

Upon inspecting all of the Evap system that I could from the hood (rained today, can't get under the truck because of puddles) I already have found two problems... on the smaller line from the charcoal cannister (the one that is rubber for a long ways instead of becoming a hard plastic line) I found this crammed inside it. I have no idea what it is OR how the hell it got there and then I blew into the line and heard my air coming from behind the valve cover... weird. But, then I found problem number two. This it seems the heat from the engine burnt a good sized hole into the rubber line. Now, what type of engine problems can these two things cause?

Yes its a liquid filled Jegs gauge which is permanently attached to my fuel rail. The same one Hornbrod used in his write up. When I just run the fuel pump without the engine running it is 34. When the engine first starts it is 29/30. With the engine running and vacuum disconnected it is about 36-38.

Yeah they're not in great condition but I don't believe they're leaking or anything. I will check though. Can leaks in those lines cause low pressure somehow?

The tank doesnt have any pressure in it because of a lockring leak and a gas cap not being sealed. Do you think this could affect things? my regulators been changed twice. I'm pretty sure I tightened down both hose clamps good but I'll double check when I seal up the lockring. Are the EVAP lines the ones that go to the charcoal cannister and all that? I know they're pretty crusty...

So basically some grinding on the part that fits over the bumper so it contours to the shape of an MJ bumper should help with finessing it to fit? Sounds like I probably will get it... it looks a little tall compared to XJ/MJ ones though. Anyone know if Wrangler/CJ's had a taller grill guard than MJ/XJ's. Not wanting it to be higher up than the front clip... I'll ask for measurents from the guy as well then lol.

How do I check the evap lines and how can I tell they're okay? And yes filter is in correct. Ballast resistor is bypassed because the aftermarket one I bought was to many ohms and my fuel pump ran line crap with the higher resistance. Haven't blown air in it, yet.

Posted this topic to get attention on the new problem I've found that I can't figure out the solution to.

Hey guys. I already have a topic about my crazy stalling problem and low rough idle. I've kind of tracked down the cause of the low and rough idle and I THINK its low fuel pressure. I'm almost positive it is because my fuel pressure lowers as the idle gets lower and rougher. Cruiser is of course trying to help me with it as always but I want to know if anyone else has ever had this problem and what caused it. I have changed the fuel pump, regulator, filter, injectors with Volvo's, checked for leaks everywhere and only found that the lockring is leaking when the tanks close to full. The problem is my fuel pressure starts off at 29 when I start the engine. Then as it warms up and runs longer the fuel pressure slowly drops as has gotten as low as 18 PSI. Like I've said, I've changed the entire fuel system... pressure shoots to 95+ when I squeeze the return line. Does anyone have any insight as to what this could be? Getting good voltage to the pump. Double checking grounds soon. Thanks in advance as always guys.

has anyone ever tried mounting up a TJ grill guard like this? I've been wanting a grill guard for my Jeep for awhile and a guy is selling this one for really cheap... only thing is he's two hours away so I can't really go check it out before purchase. He's getting some pictures tomorrow of how it mounts and everything. Just wanted you guys input before I went through the trouble of buying it.

Dairy stocker at the local Winn Dixie. And during the summer I juggle also being the foreman of a landscaping crew and do my own personal side jobs for more money. Average teenage jobs.

I'm looking for the SAME one. I want one so bad on my MJ.

Ah whoever was selling that Wrangler was so close to being correct. The engine swap year was 07 I believe. Maybe I will learn to appreciate the non Jeepers dumbness behind knowing their engines, once I start buying parts Jeeps :D

yes, thats why I said post 87. The most recent time this happened it was an 89 pioneer Cherokee. Which Cherokees had the v6 from 84-86 if I remember correctly. He still is swearing to everyone on the post that its a V6. But he won't post a picture of the engine bay.

Butchering a nice truck is another one of mine. And yes it actually was a good deal, I would of bought it if I had the money. But also buying a Jeep from someone who doesn't even know the correct engine would kind of scare me. Who knows what they had done to the thing which you will end up paying for...

People calling a Jeep inline 6 a V-6 or an Inline V-6 is a huge pet peeve of mine. It annoys me to no end. Am I the only one this bugs or is this something all Jeep guys have a problem with? Also when someone posts a post 86 Cherokee or Manche for sale and they SWEAR it is all original and has a V6. I've had people argue with me multiple times for hours about how I'm wrong and ALL cherokee years came with V-6's.

I'm not sure on the lines but I did just replace the major components. Bosch fuel pump off Ebay, Wix filter and Standard Motor Products regulator off of Rockauto. I'm happy with my purchases :D

Sadly the napa around here closed down. I found a website which sells individual orings for CHEAP. But you have to buy a certain amount. Still coming out way cheaper than the dealer wanted, and I can help out anyone that is in my situation and needs the orings for cheap :D