BLHTAZ

If you lay on the ground on the driver side of your truck and look up under it you should see something that looks like this... ;)

That bottle is the source of a lot of grief. ;) Be sure to bleed the system thoroughly when you replace and refill. If you are unsure of how to do it...please ask. If it is not done properly you will end up with the same issue all over again. Air in the system causes them to over heat and blow that bottle apart very quickly... ( :oops: voice of experience) :mad:

The heater core in my MJ was bad when I bought the truck a year ago, but I have never addressed it as there have been too many other things of more importance than that. Heat is not a priority in FL...unlike AC. ;) My question is...can the core be changed without opening the AC system or does the evaporator have to be disconnected to remove the heater core? Anyone have a write up on this or any good advice as it looks like a real PITA to do?

That might be possible if you are swapping a "like" radiator, but I went to a 3 row so it's quite different.

yeah, you got to drop the T-case to do that though, I was just under mine looking at the vacuum lines cause it hasn't been work right, and i couldn't even get my hand to where i could touch the lines going into the T-case. :hmm: I have never seen one that you have to drop the t-case. I have changed these many times and it only takes 5 minutes or less. Is there something different about the '86 than other models??

Sounds to me like it just needs a new bottle and cap. That bottle is under great pressure when the system is hot and they are the most common thing on that system to be replaced.

Are you asking about the plastic bottle back on the firewall? If so...yes...I just plugged the bottom hole and ran a rubber hose from the radiator to the nipple on the end of the tank to use it as an overflow. It's working fine so far.

:laughin: This kind of thing... ...is what inspired this shirt... ;)

Not bad actually when you look at the price of a new Wrangler now. That thing is 10 times more capable and for only $15K more than a new one off the showroom floor. 99% of us could not buy a new Jeep and build it like that for that price. ;) OOOPS...just realized that it appears to still have the stock D44's under it so that takes a little away from my analogy... :chillin:

Be sure that you insert the new seal in the correct direction. If you put it in backwards you will be pumping oil out faster than you can put it in. Also, be sure that you are careful with the new seal as any small nick or cut in it will leak VERY badly as well. You will need to purchase an oil pan gasket too.

Yes...you will likely need the repair kits. The kit is part# 83502745 at the dealership. They run about $16 each and you will need two. I found it easiest to take the fuel rail out completely, install the injectors in the rail and then put it back in the manifold. The little wire clips holding electrical plugs on can be a real PITA if you still have them on yours. A lot of people don't put them back on once they have taken them off. Mine is missing two, but it has never been a problem as I have had it apart 3 times now. I hope you used the "JEEP" discount on your purchase :brows: .

The vacuum switch in the t-case is probably stuck. Sometimes you can free it up by taking it out and cleaning it, but typically it is best to replace it. It is on the left side and has a plug of 4 vacuum lines going to it. Unplug the lines and it screws out.

It's not a hard job to do on these trucks. Just take your time and be careful with hose little nuts on top of the upper support as they like to be difficult and break the studs off. PB Blaster and patience are your friends as always on an older vehicle. ;)

Yes...be sure to get one from a 6cyl. I just did this swap in my '88. It is very easy. You will need the temp sender for a guage and the oil pressure sender for a guage...both can be had at a parts store for little money. :cheers:

Thanks... Yes, I work on straight commission so my paycheck has been hurting with the downturn in the business lately ;) . I have not heard of newjeepparts.com

That is a Dodge dealer in Lakeland, FL if I remember right.

This is my thread on here about this subject... ;) http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... highlight=

They stay there until the recipient reads it.I get this question often on the forums that I Admin on. ;)

I am allowed to sell to friends at 5% over my discount so this particular item would run you $72.50 + tax & a few dollars shipping. May be able to get around tax if it is out of state shipping, but I would have to check on that. I am happy to do it for anyone here on anything that I can.

I work in the parts dept at a Jeep dealership ;) . With my employee discount I got it for $69. :D Retail on it is about $115 if I remember right.

I had a thought about using one of these as well... Image Not Found It is a push through the radiator sensor from a Hayden Electric fan that I had on our YJ for a short time. It was still in the radiator of the YJ so I pulled it out, but it is not long enough to go through the MJ radiator. I also found this site... www.the-fan-man.com I have emailed them with questions about one of the switches that they are offering.

Or here... http://www.jeep.com/en/owners/

OK..I am starting to believe that the issue is the t-stat housing is not getting hot enough because it is aluminum and it sits right where the mechanical fan blows on it constantly. I am going to start looking for a way to mount it in a better location.

Gotta remember that mine is an '88 so I don't have all of the ECU stuff to deal with. My original switch was mounted in the radiator lower left side. They used to make a tube with a bung in it that you would cut the lower radiator hose and splice it in to mount the original switch when doing this type of change, but those can not be found any more.

I am not giving up on finding the right one and will keep this thread updated as I find any info. Let me know if you find anything else on your end too :cheers: