dfreeman616

i'm looking to move install my 6x9 speakers in the back of my comanche. my truck didn't come with rear speakers, so i know there's a wire harness i can tap into, but no mounts. anyone put these in the stock location? i could just get some after market 6x9 cabs, but i'd rather not use up my space.

where are you located, out of curiosity?

rd84, you need a front axle, front driveshaft, rear driveshaft specific to your wheel base/trans/tcase/axle combo, 4wd transmission, transfer case, 4wd transmission crossmember, and 4wd linkage. if your front axle is a vacuum diconnect modle, you also need the vacuum linkage. beyond that, you might want a center consol to accomediate the t-case shifter, and anything else depends on what you want to do at the same time (upgrade steering, control arms, lift, etc... i think that's about it. since the 2wd's use a solid axle and the same suspension set up, it's pretty simple as far as conversions go.

if you can get some pics of it, i might consider it. dfreeman616@gmail.com , and i'm also interested in the console if you have one.

that's the cheapest tig machien i've seen...but then, it's harbor frieght.

2002 ranger fx4 package, not sure the backspacking, 7" wide as i recall. i had to clearnce the inside around the hub because the hub is a little larger on our trucks than the ranger.

a few up to date pics. you can see the rims off a ford ranger i picked up, and note the slight height boost and tool box. the driver fender has some damage from a tire blow out, but is still usable, especially once i trim it. how's that for a rusty bed?

Wildman has you beat, you have nothing on him! i don't know, if you're talking about the far left one here: then it depends on what you compare. the bed of mine has less left, but less rust on what remains. however, the rest of ine isn't too bad :D well if you have the parts for the soa set up, i guess why not? i still think it's more work than it's worth. but to each his own.

i don't believe those floors are real, i smell photocrop... just kidding, nice find!

welcome! :cheers: :wrench: bufflo, ny, huh? is it a long bed or short bed (7ft or 6ft)? you could post that up in the classifieds section. got any pics of the beast? why are you looking at a leaf conversion? unless you're putting in a differant axle up front, i can't really think of a good reason to go through the trouble. you're looking at less suspension performance and a harsher ride, and leaf springs tend to be more expensive than coil springs. but hey, 60k miles on a comanche? how'd you find that? just don't be too quick to call it rusty...i've got some pretty good competion for that right here: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=5129

tires? what about the tig welder???? $$$$$$$

if you're refering to the green spot under the left lower corner of the tailgate, i think that's just grass you can see through the underchasis

there's also a local yard that had 3 mj's, including a long bed but he didn't want to part the bed because i think it just needed brakes? it was an 86 if i recall, and this was awhile ago. i could probably get sway with the side panels, if i can come up with some good ones. the inside only hwas one area with holes in it, and with the sides off i could clean up the metal between the outside panel and the bed side. i'm also talking with mike in indiana (he's on here) about getting a long bed from him, bu theres always the $$$$$ factor. where is the extra length on the long bed, in front of or behind the wheel wells, or both?

the guy i bought it from took the bed from this and put it on his other truck, and i just needed something to strap the fuel tank to and get it driving, it replaced my nissan after an accident. the inside of the bed is still fairly solid, except one spot on the driver side.

the bed makes it look worse than it is. that bed came off a truck that had a salt spreader on it, but only 56,000 miles IIRC. oh, and it has a factory bed liner in it.

first off, sorry for the un-original name, it's what my wife dubbed my truck upon seeing it the first time. i figure i've been lurking long enough on the projects to start posting. so here's what i'm working with: 1990 MJ long bed. 4.0L auto 2wd, which i bought on here. came with new alternator, battery cables, rear brakes & lines, brake master cylinder, front calipers, and rotors and pads ready to slap on. Note the 87 Cherokee in the background... and the parts truck: 1989 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l Jasper reman engine with 60k miles on it aw4 Chrysler reman with 61k miles np231 d30 & d35 w/3.55's it will be a 4wd by the time i'm done. remeber the 87 in the background a little ways up? it came with a d44. currently, the d35 from the parts jeep is under it, and the 44 is going under the comanche eventually. so far, i've: -replaced water pump -installed fuel tank & bed (not installed when i bought it) -swaped semi-full gauge cluster in (no tach) -swaped the front axle and installed a budget boost from the parts truck to level it out. also installed RE adjustable trac bar and have a rusty's tie rod ready to install -modified and installed 16x7 aluminum rims from a 2002 ranger fx4 with 245/70r16 pathfinders -got an over-the-rail tool box for $1 other mods to come: -install d44 from the 87, engine/tranny/t-case from 89 -bucket seats from 89 -stereo system from 87 (pioneer cd player, 5.25" front spearks, 6x9" rears) -cb -rear slider window (already have) -either replace the bed & repair rust, or make a flat bed eventually -repair minor rot on driver's floor and along rockers -paint to match aside from the bed and the rust repair, i already have everything i need (except time :teehee: ) total cost so far: $150 for truck, $75 to get home and running $400 for parts jeep -$400 for stuff i've sold off the parts jeep so far (plenty more left :cheers: ) $0 for tires/rims (traded some parts and my old wheels as rollers) $1 for toolbox $25 for rear driveshaft and slider window $50 misc hardware and brake rotor for front =$301 so far :banana:, plus time to do the work

at knuckles, and yes on the cad (vac disco axle)

the large rubber piece on the end just slids off so you can take off the lens, and you can reset it without pulling apart the speedo needle/faceplate

is your truck auto, and if so does it have a column shifter? don't forget about the PRND2-1 indicator. it will still bolt up, but you have to modify the tach faceplate & the gauge cluster housing, as well as swap the indicator. it's not hard to do, i have some pics of when i did it if you want.

hmm quite the project, keep up with the pics :cheers:, and let us know how it performs

it has nothing to do with the t-case. early comanche's used a vacuum disconnect front axle. look under the front end, and you'll see a housing on passenger side axle tube with the vac line going to it. posi-lock is a cable that attaches to the shift fork in the axle to operate it manually. you'll just need a place in the cab to operate it, so either a hole in the firewall or in the floor. right by the t-case lever might be a good place, but i'm not sure how flexible the cable is.

i had an 84 cherokee chief, so they had them for a few years. not sure when they cut the trim package.

that's about what i want to do with the bed on my mj...evenutally

if you have keys for those front doors off the xj and wouldn't mind shipping them to 49544, i'd appreciate it.

i could manage that, i've got a 92 dakota ext cab sitting around.