88MJay

Grab a 1996-2000 non-disconnect XJ high pinion Dana 30, throw some alloy shafts in it if you want for $475.... http://www.drivetrainoutlet.com/Jeep_Front_Axle_Kits-Alloy_Chromoly_Upgrade_Kit_87_04_TJ.html and call it good if you have to keep the 5 on 4.5 pattern. Better option if you are up for the fabwork and swapping wheels is get a HP44 and 9" rear out of a late 70's Ford truck. Just avoid the cast in radius arm mounts on the 78-79 F-150's. 76-77 F-150's are good, 78-79 F-250's are good.

I suppose my questions and comments are this... If there are nice quality proven methods that are easily available to you within a similar price range why re-invent the wheel at the risk of causing harm to yourself and others? It's a great fantastic idea and way outside the box but what exactly is the point? It's not going to create any significant change or new horizon in the industry. And... It's going to be way more than $20 an end. Think about the cost of 1.5" solid stock mounts and the huge $150 (guessing) tapered reamer it is going to take to create the mount. Maybe if you had 50 of these rod ends sitting in a box for free and a bunch of 1.5" solid stock. Oh and the reamer already. Then I still wouldn't do it. But if you are feeling inspired give it a whirl and let us know how it works out. :cheers:

With that type of end you are putting the attachment point in a single shear mode. That's usually not a good idea. I like thinking outside of the box. It's what makes innovation possible. But, sometimes you don't see things for a reason. It looked like the price on that tie rod end was around $20. Spend $35 or $40 and buy something nice. A few extra dollars in the long run isn't going to hurt. I prefer Johnny Joints on one end and rubber on the other. I'm not saying it wouldn't work. Because I don't know if it would. It may be the best thing since sliced bread. Who knows? :dunno:

Cool... glad to hear you got it figured out. :cheers:

In the other thread "coolest MJ", I said this was my 2nd choice... Well... after much searching I found the build thread on this thing. Seems as though it is currently sitting in limbo though. It never got completed. Although, I think he mentioned something about getting it ready this year to compete in the rock racing series. Anyway... if you enjoy good fabrication and really cool buildups here is the link to the thread.... http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=54762 Enjoy!

I can't wait to see how this unfolds. I like what you are doing. Keep us posted! :cheers:

I never posted a pic of my top MJ because I don't have a pic of it. But... right at the moment this is my 2nd favorite MJ... Not too much of this thing is MJ but it sure is bad. Anyone know anything else about this thing?

I've run them on my Jeeps before without any problems. I always used locktite on them though. I don't mind using them on my trail Jeeps. I don't think it would probably be the best idea to use them on a daily driver. But, I'm sure people have successfully.

64" is a good width. But, I would make the front wider than the rear. Say 66" or 67" and the rear 64". Or make the front 64" and the rear 62". It helps when trying to get around a tree or rock when on the trail. Most one ton axles (full width) are this way. If you ask around, axle shops etc., they will confirm that most people who custom order or build axles go this route. just my 2 cents again.

I agree with pingpong on the BFG's. Good friend ran the X-terrains. They wore out quickly and are useless on the trail after half tread. MTR's get my vote out of that list. Really tough sidewalls, great on road (just rotate them every 2000 miles) and do great on the trail, especially rocks. They aren't the best in deep mud but are comparable to every other tire on your list except the Swampers. The Swampers are by far the best mud tire but not a good street tire at all. my 2 cents.

This thing is sharp! I haven't seen this pic before. Almost too nice to wheel. Cool though.

You and all the troops are amazing people and I have nothing but total respect. Stay safe and we really look forward to having your posts back here. Take care brother. :USAflag:

Yep.... for $99! http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com/oscommerce/product_info.php?cPath=33_208&products_id=828

With 35's there is no way you can get them in there without a little trimming no matter how much lift you run. Well.... I suppose you could run 10" of lift and lower your bumpstops by a foot or so. lol Seriously though... around 6" and some minor trimming should get you there without hacking away a ton. I prefer a little less lift and a little more trimming though. Say.... 4.5" of lift and trim to fit.

That's a really nice truck! Nice find! :cheers:

RE makes top notch stuff. I've always been impressed with their long arms. Unfortunately the RE stuff is out of my price range too. I helped a buddy put that exact kit on his XJ. I also Did a Full Traction long arm setup on a TJ. There stuff is real nice too. Their is definately more good companies producing stuff than bad ones. My theory (and why I buy what I do) is.... take everything people say in the forums with a grain of salt. Try and get as close to as many different kits as you can and just buy what you want. Make a decision based on what you want and screw all the people who web wheel and say it's junk. If I believed everything I read I would never had tried RK's products. But I did and I'm happy about them. When I hear about a failure on a particular brand of kit, 9 times out of 10, it's due to owner or installer error (not getting things tight, or not checking brackets, bolt torque, etc. Somebody says "my front end flew apart on the highway" then you look at pictures and the guy's lower control arm mounts on his axle have huge cracks and let go. It all goes back to you can't believe everything you read. I don't know why I'm rambling all over this guy's thread. Sorry... and congrats on getting the manche hooked up with a sweet long arm suspension! Be sure and post some pics! :cheers:

Under $400 shipped to my door mainly. Nobody else can touch that price for long arms. TNT is close to a grand. Clayton is badass (had it on my TJ) but too much too. Rusty's is junk and overpriced. That leaves RK. I've got some buddies with RK long arms. I've used their track bars and steering before (getting both for the MJ too). Their stuff is way beefy and perfect for what I am doing. Their lower arms now have a bend in them for clearance like the TNT arms. For the price... their isn't anything else out there that even comes close. I can't even build it that cheap. Check out NAXJA and read some of the reviews people are giving the XJ long arm. Nobody is having any troubles. That and if you break or bend anything on it... RK will replace it no questions asked. Give DC4WD a call for a good price on it.

When I ordered my Rock Crawler XJ long arm upgrade they said it may not fit. They had me measure from the drivers side lower control arm bolt at the frame back to the first crossmember bolt. My measurement was 18". Apparently that was the magic number because the kit is being shipped right now. I have a 4.0,AW4,231 combo in my MJ. If I had to guess I would say it's the BA10 that these XJ kits won't fit on just like Oizarod115 said.

I know I guy who lives down the road from me who has a Diesel XJ. He paid $100 for it. I don't know if it runs or not. He goes by jfiscus on NAXJA and some other boards.

Hey Redbull it's 01TJay from TJHardcore... anyway... I had a buddy had the same problem. His was caused by the intake not sealing up properly and allowing air to flow in at the head. He took it apart and re-sealed the intake and it ran fine. That doesn't mean that's what's going on necessarily with yours though. It's just something I remember happening to a buddy. How's the TJ? later, j

Hey ComancheRob... My modem cable light goes out a couple times a day when I'm trying to load a new page. I have to stop loading the page and then wait for the light to flash slow... then flash fast.... then stay on before I can try and reload the page again. What is that? Do I need a new modem? It's a Toshiba PCX1100. This seemed easier than calling you and being on hold for 20 minutes. :D How's the MJ running now? Any luck keeping it running?

Not only do they have a poly bushing on one end now but the lower arms are bent for better clearance now instead of being straight! Kinda like the TNT arms being high clearance now RK's junk is that way. Easy install too. It's a reasonable option for you. :cheers: On a side note... Roy at RK told me that their kit doesn't fit every XJ or MJ though. (kinda strange). You have to take a measurement from the lower control arm bolt at the frame mount back to the first crossmember bolt. If it's 18" you're good. If not.... I suppose you are SOL.

I remember seeing an olive drab MJ here in Ohio about four years ago with Dana 60's, 38's and a full cage. It was the coolest looking thing I have ever seen in my life. I wish I had a picture of it. It's why I am here and why I own a MJ now. I was a TJ guy for several years. But, I sold it and now I'm building what I really want. Anyway... Either post a pic or tell us about your pick for coolest MJ.

You can count me in for a MJ trail ride! But, my junk won't be done till probably April or so.

I know guys who have run them with good luck too. I noticed you said a long arm was out of the question but I figured I'd throw this out there anyway... RE brackets... $262.95 + shipping Rock Krawler LA $400.00 shipped Thats about a $135 dollar difference and probably not really that much more work. DC4WD has the long arms for that price shipped if you call him. I heard the price was going up though. I don't know why I'm mentioning this because you said your not interested anyway. :cheers: