88MJay

I'm not saying they are equal for a fact. But, for the money it takes to go from a stock HP30 up to a TJ LP D44 it just doesn't seem worth it in my opinion. (Not that my opinion means anything) A well designed and executed truss will add strength for sure. Is it necessary? That depends on what you want to do with your Jeep. If you plan on some air time... Ya I'd definately truss it. If it will be on 35's or smaller and just get the typical trail use and daily driving... it isn't really necessary. A built TJ D44 with alloys, super joints, and real hubs would be a great axle. But it will take a lot of cash to build it. If I was to spend a ton of cash on an axle I'd prefer to find a HP60 and not even waste my time on a D44. That way in the future you could upgrade shafts etc. and go to whatever size tire you want (40's etc.) All I'm saying is you could build a HP D60 for around the same cash as building a D44 with alloys etc. In the meantime... if you aren't breaking your D30... run it and carry spare shafts. I've ran D30's for 5 plus years on 35's and I have never even broken one shaft. This topic is such a big ol' can of worms. If my opinions are in anyway entertaining for you I'm more than willing to keep posting them for you! :cheers:

I remember reading somewhere that if you have a crack in the exhaust manifold or anywhere in the exhaust before the 02 sensor that it will fool the 02 sensor into thinking it's running too lean. I'm assuming that fresh outside air would be pulled into the system and thus lean out the exhaust so that the 02 sensor reads it as lean and tells the computer to richen up the mix. Does this sound like something that can actually happen? It seems logical but I wanted to run it past you guys. later, j

This stuff has been gone over for centuries (well at least it feels like it). With alloys in a LP30 the weak link becomes the ring and pinion. I know of two people that have broke their TJ LP D30 ring and pinion. One on 35's and one on 36's. The high pinion is a much stronger ring and pinion (well at least when moving forward :brows: ) than the TJ and later XJ LP D30. I like the HP D30's. I've never seen actual data to back it up but I believe that a HP30 is just as strong as a LP TJ D44. Maybe not in all areas... but as a whole. They both have the same size u-joint, the same outer shafts, the same axle tubes, same brackets, etc. The difference lies in the ring and pinion only. A HP30 R&P vs. a LP D44 R&P. How much difference can there really be? Now if you are talking about a real D44... especially a HPD44... that's a different animal entirely. One I wish I had under my Jeep! ;) :cheers:

Ya... I saw it. The guy's crazy. Wasn't the name of the show... "The man who's arms exploded"? :ack:

Another downside to "stock" Rubi front 44's is they run dana 30 outers. That is most peoples big complaint about that axle. Well... that and the thin tubes.

What are they worth with MJ brackets on them?

I can't recommend Ohio to you. It's a sh*t hole. There is no wheeling. The majority of it is flat and full of nothing but corn fields. It's to humid in the summer and too cold in the winter. Horrible state to live in. I once thought I saw a rock but it was really just a trash bag laying on some corn stalks. Kentucky is beautiful. So is Tennesee... and the Carolina's.... Never been out west. Someday I will drive my Jeep in Moab. Good luck wherever you end up! :cheers:

Powerpoint is pretty easy. I use it everyday for my job. Just get a copy of the program and start making slides. The help menu is pretty good. Spend an hour or so a day playing around and you'll have it figured out by the time you need to start using it for work. :hateputers:

The RK stuff goes over the knuckle and didn't get in the way of anything. The only downside is the use of heims (if you look at it as a downside). If you are planning 50,000 or more road miles for your Jeep then heims may not be a logical purchase for you. For a trail rig that sees very little street miles it is a great setup.

I have no experience with the Rusty's steering. I've researched it though and people either hate it or love it. I ran the Rock Krawler steering on my TJ and really liked it. I'm going to buy it for my MJ too. :cheers:

I must agree... sell the current D44 and go the 8.8 route. I've always been fond of getting them with open diffs and throwing in a Lockright. There is no carrier break (as Southen Crawlin stated) parts are everywhere, they are really strong, and they are cheap. '96 to '99 (I believe) are the years to get with 31 spline shafts and disc brakes. All the Ford Explorers from those years have that axle. It can also be found under those same years Mercury Mountaineers. These axle can be found in 4.10 ratio quite frequently too. You also mentioned possibly upgrading the front axle. For how you are planning on wheeling.... I would just upgrade to a newer one piece set of shafts with the bigger 297/760 joint (all TJ's and 96 and newer XJ's). Or find a 96 or so HP XJ axle and swap in some 4.10's a locker and bada bam bada bing!

Man, that really blows. I was really enjoying watching the buildup of that thing. I would suggest trying to salvage it. This would be a good time to swap in that different motor/trans/transfercase you've probably been dreaming about. By the way... if this is Pete... I really enjoy your writing! Let us know what you decide to do. later, j

I like using the long 6" or 7" perches if you are going spring over. Adds just a tad bit of anti-wrap help. If you are going spring under don't worry about it. Mopar perches are nice. There was a post in the "Pub" section where someone was asking about the flange adaptor. Kinda funny... two in one day... anyway... Spicer number 2-2-1379 You can get it at any Spicer dealer for around $20

We have a few here locally in Ohio. I believe Napa is a Spicer dealer. At least they used to be. Look in the phone book for drivetrain parts, or heavy duty truck parts, or driveshaft shops etc.

Aha! Spicer number 2-2-1379 Only took me about a minute. Google rules. :cheers:

Don't spend $40 on the flange adaptor. Any Spicer dealer can get the part for you for around $20. I don't remember the part number though for the 1310 adaptor. Let me look around and see if I can come up with it.

I've got the actual cage build pdf. file from S&W for the Cherokee cage. If I knew how to post it I would. It shows the rear bars shaped like this.... ____________ | | | | I assume it's designed to go over the backseat area and attach around the wheel houses in the rear. When I spoke with the salesman he said he could make some changes to the kit if necessary to fit the Comanche. My plan is to order the kit with everything except the bent rear bars. I will ask them to send the rear bars straight not bent. Hope this helps explain a few things. The fellow seemed very helpful. Give them a call if you are wanting to do something similar. I'm sure they will accomadate your needs. :cheers:

This is what Jegs and S&W are calling a 10 pt.... I don't think I'd would call it a 10 pt. either. Their 12 point cages are the ones that run up into the engine compartment. I still haven't had a chance to check all the measurments but I'll get to it sometime this weekend.

The 10 point cages are $30 off until December 31st.

They are HREW not DOM. DOM cages from them are in the $450 range. Like most folks... I have no intentions of rolling my MJ. I'm not one of those "got something to prove" type of wheelers. I just enjoy a nice day on the trail. I just want something that can save my noggin in case a roll occurs. Here in the Midwest the trails aren't quite as scary as they are out West. PingPong, their cages are setup with a "B" hoop, an "overhead" hoop and down bars for the front. I would utilize all of that plus straight rear bars that will go into the bed. My plan (which I stole from a buddy who drags an S-10) is to remove the two side pieces of glass in the rear slider window, replace with lexan and cut holes for the bars to go through. The holes can then be sealed back up around the tube in various ways to keep the rain out. I have about 15 foot of 1 1/2" DOM laying around that I'll use to put some overhead spreaders in etc. As for the "B" hoop needing to be shorter... I don't expect the cage to just "fit" from the box. I'm sure the majority of the ends will need fitted and coped. The height of the "B" hoop will probably need adjusted like every other bar in the cage kit. My main concern is getting the bars in the pre-bent form so they will fit up with the interior size and dash shape. later, j

http://www.swracecars.com/ I just looked over the cage specs and everything looks good except the rear bars that go back to the bed (or rear area of a XJ) aren't straight. It looks like they are bent as to go over the head of the backseat area of the XJ. I'm sure it would be nothing for them to send straight bars as opposed to the angled ones for the XJ. Over the weekend I'm going to actually measure it all out and make sure everything looks good. If so, I'm going to give this a shot. You can't beat it for $219! later, j

I don't have anything against exo's they just aren't my style. I understand the benefits of them I'm just not a big fan. I just got off the phone with S&W race cars and they build a 10 pt. Cherokee cage. He is emailing me the specs on the cage (measurements etc.) so I can go over them and see if it will work on a MJ. They are also having a sale until Dec. 30th. $219 for the 10 pt. cage! Shipping for me (one state over) is around $85. I'm going to get the measurements and go over them to see if this will work. I'll post up this weekend what I find out. later, j

Jegs sells roll bars like you are describing but they also sell 10 point cages. Here is a pic of a 10 point for reference....

My biggest concern is that I find a "B" hoop that is the right width and the overhead hoop is the right width from side to side. Everything else should work out okay with standard coping and fitting. It just seems like a cheap and effective way of creating a roll cage for these without spending a thousand dollars. I'm not looking to build a show queen. I just want a solid wheeler I can feel safe in. My goal is to build the whole MJ for under $3000. If I can get one of these cages to work for $250 then I am well on my way. later, j