88MJay

I traded my TJ for a 99 dodge 2500 quad cab 4x4. It's my daily driver and tow rig. That means the MJ is trail junk only. Wohoo!

Nice Comanche! The wheels make the truck look great. My next door neighbor has an 89" Comanche Chief. It's a 4.0, AW-4,231, with a factory D44 rear.

That's funny... I've got that book on my desk.

That's a new one on me. I thought all the 78-79 F-150's were coils with cast mounts. I know the 78-79 F-250's are leaf spring fronts. Well... all but the Snow Fighter and Camper Specials.

The tunnels at Niagra thing was insane! Awesome stuff. Makes me want to go exploring. There is a whole unused subway system down in Cincinatti. They constructed the whole system and never used it. It's just gated up where it comes to ground level. I've seen pictures from it. I guess it goes all over the whole city.

I'm ordering a set from Summit too. I shopped around and they have the best deal shipped. I tried tons of other places, Quadratech, Jegs, etc. Summit is even cheaper with State sales tax than all the other places without State tax for me.

I'm really liking the backbone deal too. :D

I've never been a fan of the "exo" either. I understand why people build them. They just look like crap. I'm putting an interior cage in mine. I've got a S&W Cherokee kit in the garage. I had S&W do a few custom mods though so I could use it on my MJ. If you are going the exo route like in the pics everything looks good except I would triangulate the roof instead of the parrallel streamers and run an upside down "v" in the windshield as opposed to the one bar with the gussets. I'd really like to see a door/hip bar in there but I understand you want to keep the stock doors. Then just gusset the whole thing with 1/4" gussets or 1" tube. my 2 cents again. :cheers:

Try some of the vendors.... PORC, DC4WD, etc... I'm pretty sure you can get a new Lockright for around $225 shipped. I've been looking for one used too and they aren't around like they used to be. I found a used one for sale on a local board but the guy won't go below $200.

Pre 93' Ranger axles are 3" narrower than Explorer axles and Post 93' Ranger axles are 1.5" narrower than Explorer axles. The FX4 was the only 31 spline Ranger 8.8. Here's some info off of "Therangerstation".... "Models Years Notes Ranger 4.0 1990-1992 Width is same as other pre-93 axles, 28 spline 3.08 (4x2), 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10 (4x4) factory ratios Either limited slip or open differential 10" drum brakes Ranger 4.0 B4000 1993+ 1994+ Width is same as other 93+ axles (1.5" wider than pre 93), 28 spline Ratios and differential options as noted above Ranger FX4 2002+ Width is same as other 93+ axles, 31 spline 4.10's and Torsen limited slip from factory Explorer Navajo 1990-1994 Width is 1.5" wider than 93+ Ranger, 3" wider than pre-93, 31 spline Spring perches must be fabricated and welded on top Stock spring perches can be used to lower the truck (like a flip kit) Shock mounts must be fabricated and welded on Very common to find ltd. Slip, usually 3.73 or 4.10 (4x4) gears Explorer Mountaineer 1995-2001 Same as above, also has rear discs"

The rotor would move because it isn't bolted down to the hub. Why would you need to pull the tire to check for slop? Just curious. Well, I confess I completely forgot that most folks aren't as anal as I am about originality and have probably long since discarded the OEM retainer clips that hold the rotors to the hubs. Sorry. Yes, just wiggling the tire will show if there's movement, but with the tire and rim mounted you can't see if the play is in the unit bearing or the ball joints unless you have a helper. With the wheel and tire out of the way, you can see what's moving and how much. Makes sense. :cheers:

It seems as if you have made up your mind. Let us know how it works for you. :cheers:

Wow! :clapping:

Apparently there is a difference in axle shafts on the drum vs. disc Explorer 8.8's. The Superior Catalog has them listed like this.... 90.5 - 94 Right - 27 3/4 90.5 - 94 Left - 30 5/8 95+ Right - 27 5/8 95+ Left - 30 1/2 Is that enough difference to warrant replacement? I don't know. Just passing on some relevant info.

Here's one.... http://www.4x4central.com/discswap.html I don't remember where I read that or if it has any truth to it. Could be like a 16th or something that doesn't even matter. You can't believe everything you read anyway.

I've never done it but you should be able to go to a junkyard and grab all of the parts necessary from a 96' and up Explorer axle. I remember reading somewhere that the drum brake axle shafts are just a tad bit shorter than disc brake shafts. I don't know if it's true or how much difference there is but... you could grab the shafts out of the donor axle as well. If nothing else you'd have a spare set of shafts. An aftermarket disc brake kit will be way too expensive. I'm sure there is a write up somewhere on the net about this conversion. Maybe try the Rangerstation or something. Good luck!

The rotor would move because it isn't bolted down to the hub. Why would you need to pull the tire to check for slop? Just curious.

The only test I know is to jack up one side and grab the wheel and tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and try wiggling it back and forth to see if there is any slop in it. If it moves they are shot.

This subject always cracks me up. It's always.... "I broke my D30 on 31's open fourteen times in two weeks" or "I've wheeled my D30 on 37's for 5 years without a failure" I'm not saying either is not true. Heck, I ran a LP D30 with stock shafts on 35" Krawlers with heavy steel beadlocks, locked, for 3 seasons and didn't break a single part. Not one. And this was on serious trails, boulders and all! But... some other guy can't get out of the driveway without popping a u-joint on his open 33" tired rig. What does this tell you? You need to first figure out which guy you are. Because that is really what it comes down to. Are you guy #1 or guy #2? Then build whatever you need. There is no definative answer to what tire can go on a D30 and there never will be. EVER!

I don't know if this is an option but something to kick around... If you add up the cost of the rooster kit, the 300, the clocking ring and parts needed to flip, etc. etc. how much is that? Take that money then sell the 203,205,231, old engine, tranny and whatever other spare parts you can muster up... Then take all the money from the sales + the money you were going to spend ($1800? $2000? total) and just fork out the extra $500 and buy a 3 speed Stak and never look back. Don't know if it's feasible or not but something to at least consider. my 2 cents.

Nice job on the write-up.

Nice SMP sticker in the back window. I still have a SMP jersey from about ten years ago. Nice clean truck by the way.

Yngwie Malmsteen's band is called "Rising Force". I actually won a keychain at the Hard Rock Cafe in Niagra Falls knowing that answer. There was a couple guys singing and doing trivia questions and that was one of them. The guy said he was sure nobody would know it. Anyway on to the top five in no particular order System of a Down Rise Against Stone Sour Slip Knot Styx

Wait.... I have more..... Also, the pressure being applied to the smaller 1.5" mount isn't equal to the double shear box mount for another reason. The force applied to the single shear solid 1.5" mount will also be on the side of the mount with a lever (the tie rod end). These forces would need significantly more reinforcement than even a 2.5" or 3" box tube as the forces applied to these are straight on and even on both sides. Do you follow me?

I see another problem with your "plan"... 1.5" isn't enough surface area for contact with the axle tube without serious gusseting. After all the gusseting required you are going to be left with at least if not more material space being used up on the tube than if you would have used regular 2.5" or 3" box mounts. I think if you really want to do this just do it. I just don't really see the point. You keep saying ideas are created and that's how things become common. But... if it's not creating some new advantage, be it cost savings or better performance, then why do it at all at the risk of wasting time, money and possibly risking the safety of yourself and others? Negatives... single shear, mount gusseting required will take up as much space as regular double shear rod end bushing or JJ mount. Positives... ? I'm not trying to shoot you down. I'm just really trying to think this through and continue the discussion.