88MJay

Are the tires doing that and the rims actually staying straight? This can occur with lower pressures and different toe settings. Usually it will do it either after rolling forward and stopping or rolling backward and stopping. Usually doesn't happen both ways. If it's toed in it will do it going backwards If it's toed out it will do it going forwards

Ya... take some pictures.

Camber can't be changed or adjusted by anything that you do. It is what it is and there is no adjustment or altering it no matter what you add, change, or do (with the acception being offset balljoints). So you didn't mess that up. I would ignore camber from here on out unless your front rims look like this... /-\ Then you may have bigger problems. Like I said in the last post, lifting it another inch or two would push the caster closer to where it needs to be. But, if you are opposed to doing that, see if there is any adjustment left in the frame mounts and see if that helps. If you can't change it from 4 degrees that's not necessarily a problem. There would be no long term, or short term, effects, damage, or problems caused by running 4 degrees of caster. Have you driven it yet to see how it drives?

Yukon says this about Rubicon gears... "Product Description The Jeep Wrangler Rubicon uses a special set of Dana 44 axles. These gears will fit the stock lockers. This ring and pinion set will fit the front or rear of a Rubicon." They are a different part number than regular D44 gears. Doesn't diffinatively answer your question though.

I'm thinking they are different for some reason. Thicker gears maybe? You may want to make a phone call on that one. Of course I could be wrong again. Wouldn't be the first or last time. :roll:

The caster isn't ideal but if it drives okay it won't hurt anything. It may feel like it wanders just the slightest bit but nothing too terrible. You really start noticing the wandering when you get down to 2 degrees. I believe the factory setting is around 7 degrees. (but remember, you don't have a factory Jeep anymore) - With the fixed lower arms that you have the caster would be closer to 7 degrees if you did add the spacers on the coils to bump it up around 5.5" or 6" of lift. There is no adjustment for camber other than offset balljoints. If the camber is off the axle has to be bent or something else is going on. What's the toe set at?

Hey... that's my truck. Well... cab at least.

Go back a page (page 4 of this topic). The link to the cage is in the second thread from the top. There is also some more info about what was changed back there somewhere. Watson moved to Michigan. He is thinking about selling his XJ. Although he has already started a mild buildup on another one.

Hey Tim... you don't know Jerry blair or Andy biggs or any of those guys do you? What club do you usually run with or do you just run with a few friends?

This place is always a joy to hang out. Everyone is friendly. Must be an inherent MJ owner thing. This site is my favorite to check in a read. Seems like Pirate and NAXJA is full of people who think they are too cool and too hardcore. I won't even post on Pirate anymore. I'm just not hardcore enough on 35's I suppose. :roll: Great place... great people! :cheers:

Sounds like a great project. Sure can't beat the price! :brows:

We went down to that new park in KY... HillznHollarz. We were working on some new trails. We cut a decent one up a rocky creek bed with a bunch of ledges about a quarter mile long. From what a few of the guys were telling me we only saw about 200 of the 900 acres. I'm looking forward to going back. It's just over 2 hours away for me and that's pretty close.

My only gripe is that it is too hot in the cab with the doors and no slider in the rear. I need to find a slider, pull the sunroof out and pull the doors. I was thinking about mounting one of those little fans that plug into the cigarette lighter on the dash bar too. That should make it more comfortable in the summer. I like the way they look better with doors on but it's just too hot. Thanks for the kind words. :cheers:

I took the MJ on it's maiden trail ride yesterday. It did great. I didn't break anything, which is always good. I did however add some beauty marks to the body. I put a few new dents in the bedsides and a nice dent in the door and cab. But, that's what it's for! Anyway, I was the only MJ on the trail (of course) and the only guy out of 10 or so that wasn't in a TJ. I thoroughly enjoyed it. Everyone was commenting on how cool the truck was. I didn't take too many pics... I was busy driving. Here's a few pics though...

Gears and a posi unit will make all the difference in the world when it comes to 0 to 60 times. Also some sticky tires. If you seriously will never travel an entire quarter mile and you drive very minimally on the highway, do some research and figure out how to install a Ford Explorer 8.8 with 4.10's and a Traklock limited slip. You can find these axles for around $200 in a junkyard with those gears and the limited slip. You will have to know someone with some fabrication skills as the install requires welding. But you would be happy with the results. If you don't know anyone with those skills... I don't have any suggestions other than what everyone else is telling you.

We were a good 10 miles out a few years back and a buddy of mine ripped his driveshaft in half (no SYE) we took a ziploc bag and put a rubber band around it on the tailshaft cone and drove it out in front wheel drive. Worked like a charm.

Ya... your right. My bad... I got the Ranger axles confused with the Exploder axles. All are 31 spline. For some reason I was thinking there was a difference in the shafts. I remember reading that the shafts aren't interchangable between drum and disc axles though due to them being slightly different lengths. I could be wrong on that too I suppose... wouldn't be the first or last time. :oops:

I think the older drum brake axles are only 28 spline instead of the 31 spline of the disc brake axles. I would hold out for a disc 8.8 if you can. They can be had for around $100 to $250 pretty regularly from scrap yards (depending on where you live).

I was just expressing my experience with the RE budget bar. I'm sure the HD piece is much nicer. The prices for both were the suggested retail for both. The RK bar can be had even cheaper than what was listed on that page too. I don't think the bar was over stressed by over flexing or anything. It was just used on one fairly tame trail ride. It isn't meant to be a study of the strengths and weaknesses of either it is just a side by side comparison of the track bars listed. Take it for what it is. Everyone has an opinion and personal experiences. I just chose to voice mine because I spent my hard earned money on a part that was supposed to hold up and folded when I used it.

I work slow too on stuff like that when I can. I'm sure it will be one of several winter "to-do's". Did you go the cheapo "NAXJA" described route?

I like the Kevins bar but for the price... $189 msrp and about $160 from vendors like DC4WD... you can get the RK bar and bracket. It may not be the most liked on the market but... it will do the job very well without ever giving you a problem. my 2 cents.

I hate to be the bringer of bad news but the RE 1600 bar is well.... let's just say thin. Here's my old one after about 300 road miles and one wheeling trip... Here's a an interesting comparison article on the RE vs. the RK track bar... http://www.tjhardcore.com/RKtrackbar1.htm

I've got the RK bar with the drop bracket. Great quality stuff at a really affordable price. It's the second one I've owned. :brows:

I will probably upgrade to hydro assist at some point. Will make a good winter project next year.

I've only seen a couple pics of steering boxes ripped off an XJ frame. It really would be a bad thing if you were a few miles from a trailer. I suppose it's good insurance.