deziped

And you press them back in by hand after torching them. :D Three auto parts in this town and none rent tools. Maybe they never got returned so they quit. As a matter of fact, they don't even sell a ball joint tool.

If you're near by, they feel like a B-52 drop when it dumps the whole load at once. Vietnam sucked.

isn't worth a damn. Got through the drivers side okay, but, when I started the pass side it deflected out of shape under moderate pressure. In other words the screw no longer centered thru the hole at other end. Not even close. No way it would put even pressure on the joints, just kept tracking off to one side or the other. Chucked it across the back yard & over the fence. FWIW, spend the extra money for good quality tools and save a lot of wasted time & frustation. Yeah I read the other unfavorable comments about it on here, but, I thought what the hell it can at least get thru 4 joints. Wrong.

I'd get a new one at any Auto parts store (NAPA, Shucks, etc.) . Junk Yard stuff would probally lead to a quick retrurn of the same problem. I'd snip the wires off right at the back of the old socket and then test to see if with ignition on/turn signal on/park light on and your tester grounded to the battery if there is elect in 2 of the 3 wires you cut. If not you know you'll have to start back tracking on the wires until you find elect some-where up the line. If you have elect but it still doesnt work after wiring up new socket then you have a ground wire problem. But thats and easy splice a ground wire in fix. FWIW. :popcorn:

They be GM columns in 88-89's. Mine is just like the one in this link:http://elcaminocentral.com/article95.html

Here's what the manual say hope it's legible enuf to read: Image Not Found[/img]

Oh, by the way this is what it looks like[/img]

I had my bed sprayed with Reflex Liner over a year ago. It still looks shiny & NEW. it cost about $350. Enter Reflex Liner in your search window to read about it. They even have a coupon for it. Have some color choices also. I'm not affiliated with this company, just happy with their product. Coupon expires: May 14, 2008

Use a circuit tester and measure Converter Clutch Solenoid Resistance. With key OFF and TCU unplugged using the connector side place negative lead in D7 and postive lead in C 14 (Wht/blk) read the Ohms. A good solenoid will read 11-15 ohms. Any less & it has problems. You can also ckeck the trans Range Sensor Connector at left rear of block (Violet - no stripe wire) near heater control valve area to see if it has elec flow.

Did you check your front park bulbs. When my bulb went whacko up front it affected the rear lights as well. Same thing when it shorted out in front. I didn't know 90's had 6 tail light bulbs. My 89 only has 4.

Found a spring for the column shifter tensioner today. Couldn't find one at Jeep or GM dealer. Got the usual response of "Gee we don't make those any more", napa don't have them, so I scrounged the hardware stores & came up with one that was close. Had to shorten it 3/8" & it doesn't have as much tension but it will be OK. So I got it back together in about an hour tonight. Used thread locker on the 4 bolts in the tilt mechanism so I won't have to tighten it up again. The steering wheell is solid as a rock now. Took all the play (read slop) out of the wheel. Drives nice. And no thats not the original mileage showing. I don't recall what the mileage was when I bought the MJ. But because of its age (89) the state no longer cares about the miles on it, so when I went through the engine and also rebuilt the front suspension at 140460 I reset it to 000000. It now has 3320 since then. or 143780 total.

I haven't yet. Gotta go look for that lil spring replacement tomorrow. Shoud be able to find one at Fastenal they usually have a good selection. But it will take about an hour to put it back together when I get started I don't work to fast anymore More important to get all parts in correctly & checking to make sure they work as intended as you move along . :brows:

Probally a lil over an hour. But most of that time was drinking coffee & searching all through my nuts & bolts for the right combo to put together a puller for the tilt joint pivot pins. GM has a tool for that, but, for a one time use I wasn't about to buy one. My puller consisting of a bolt, 2 nuts, 2 fender washers and a 1/4" drive socket as a receiving sleeve, zapped em out quick.

If the tension on your column shift AW4, and a few of us do have them, suddenly goes away it's probally because this little spring broke. It is 5/16th x 1.25 long Image Not Found[/img] It sits in the lil hole with the brown dot in pic belowImage Not Found [/img] And to get to it you have to disect this, and since I was in there I retightened the four bolts and took the play out of the tilt steering column. Overtime 3 of the bolts had come completely loose. I was lucky they didn't drop out and lock up my steering while on the road.Image Not Found[/img]

FWIW. I had a similiar problem. Turned out to be the vac plug, where MAP vac line enters side of throttle body, was kinda dried out and fitting loosely and would back out a lil over time to cause a leak. MJ would start acting like it was flooding out. I put a lil rtv on it & stuck it back in. No problems since.

Here's yuh go, under that 89 OEM steerring wheel is a column shift that manipulates the working of an AW4. Looks just about like any other 70 - 80's era GM shifter.Image Not Found[/img]

I'd put it on the market for about 3k. If in Europe I'd double that. Do you recall what W.C. Fields said?

Some members here are usually looking for black interior stuff. I see on craigs list (Portland OR) an ad for Cherokee Black Dash. I called him and he said it's an 89 for $30. If interested: 1-503-875-8952 or: sale-623345045@craigslist.org Anyway thought someone may have an interest.

He hates water & getting wet. But he loves laying out in the heat until he cooks.

He hates water & getting wet. But he loves laying out in the heat until he cooks.

He's an overweight Rhodesian Ridgeback. He's fairly lazy, the only work/responsibility he has is to guard the house when were not home. Image Not Found[/img]

Whoops, I forgot the pics Image Not Found [/img]Image Not Found

Pooch got to big to ride in front so he kinda p----- he now has to ride out back. Wasn't to bad if he hung out the pass window & barked at cats & bike riders, but, when their on my side he just bulled his way between me & wheel & we drove blind until he felt like going back to the pass side. That was kinda scary. And now that he's 160# he can't be moved by the elbow in the ribs trick. It has it's advantages, I noticed less cars park next to me at the malls. :D

You don't have to touch the tranny unless you want to if its an auto. I did remove the inspection/dust cover though to make access just a wee bit easier. I don't know about the manual 's.

It fine for general shop use, however, you'll find it will come up short if you use sanders, orbital or otherwise, or tools that gobble a lot of air. My experience has been that you spend more time waiting for it to repressurize than you do on your project. No matter what tool I was using when you pulled the trigger it could'nt pump air fast enuf to maintain the status qoua. I had to work in timed segments. I finally had enuf o that & bought a dual cyl 80 gal comp. Now I'm as happy as a pig in s----. Gave the old noisy one to a kid down the street so he could sand & paint his bicycle.