deziped

Accidently cured my erattic steering problem just by installing a set of 91 tow hooks up front. It was probally the 3/16 angle iron I bolted from Tow brackets to front cross member that solidified the front end. That OEM tin foil unibody is kinda scary now that I think about it.

This one is an 88 Olympic model with 2.5, 4 spd, 3.55, 4x4 & 15 gal tank. Gold stripe on taigate and sides. Other than that just a basic MJ Image Not Found

Check the OHM value of your solenoids in the AW4. You can do it at the TCU.

Lot's of lip flapping on here about going the extra mile to nab a MT MJ, well, here's your chance if its still avail.. Got a couple CC members nearby to this, maybe they would take a look see for anyone interested. http://bend.craigslist.org/cto/3290971780.html

Maybe a vacummn leak at the MAP or TB or in between!

Kinda like off-roading, bump a-t- bump. Ducks suck, they were kind tho & played only subs in 2nd half after scoring 50 on Ark St in the 1st. Beavers stink. They might when 1 this season if they can get by Nichol St, who ever they are.

Is this called a Hi-Jack?

my driver side is about 3/8" back further than the pass side. Doesn't seem to effect anything.

ck vac line fr TB to MAP for leaks. Fuel filter maybe plugging up.

Thanks for info. Now its on to do some fabrication.

Anyone know the OEM bolt size that goes through the track bar bushing at the axle brkt? The bushng & brkt are wore out & the bolt has gone bye-bye. I looked here but only found the torque specs. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/1989XJMJ.html

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/3156780944.html

Replaced a door panel, removed the carpet for cleaning(no rust), headliner replaced, cleaned the seat. g]

I"m thinking you probably put the spray on the Neutral Safety Switch on the side of thr tranny and it found a way inside the switch to ground out a gear switching solenoid. Go to this site to get info on testing the NSS without taking it apart.: http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/1-2swremov.htm I haven't been there since 2006 so hope its still there. Should be 4 pages of info on diagnosis of the AW4 tranny.

Had a new 89 windshield put in the 89 with new black 94 - 2000 surround/molding. Exc combo.

Got bored today So I inset some fog lights in an old grille , didn't turn out to bad. Of course fog lights are more effective closer to the ground. (img][/img]

built these on the assembly line. http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/3075059849.html

http://roseburg.craigslist.org/cto/3077194642.html

steelhead she caught a few days ago. She just turned 6. She brought elk steaks with her on her last visit , she eats what she catches also. Now thats the kind of thoughtful kid I like. Image Not Found

Get some Pacesetter dual headers (ebay) and run your dual exhaust alongside the original ehaust. But I'd use 2" or smaller pipes. And if I wanted a cool sound out of it I'd run 1" exhaust. M2C. Orig is 2 1/4" on my 89.

Caught this weekend. She just turned 6 Image Not Found

I had similar prolbem. Would crank and start but immediately die. However, if I held the key in start position for about 2 seconds (couple revolutions)when it began to chug it seemed to give it the incentive to keep running and all was well unti it acted up again. I finally think I have found the problem (fingers crossed) at the MAP sensor. Suspecting a vac leak I pulled the elec connection apart & replugged it, I then started the engine & pulled the vac line off and when I put it back on the engine RPM dropped by about 250 from what it was prevously idling at. I've had no repeat of the annoying false starting since that time. And at he lower RPM it actally starts a litle quicker and quieter. Weird stuff happens.

that ain't pudding

Nice work. Makes we want to stop by DMV & see if I can get a TRIKE endorsement on my license.

Replaced the left side motor mount. Old rubber was broke in half 1/2" below the through bolt. Funny the RPM's picked up by 300 at idle with new mount. Weird .