deziped

Here yuh go: http://www.fieros.de/en/articles/steering.html To depress the retainer plate & spring make yourself a simple tool by using a piece of 1" ID pipe, or even an old socket, about 1 1/4" long. Just cut/grind out the sides (3/4" slots) or so. No need to buy a tool you'll probally only use once. Put it on the column, screw on the nut to press it down, remove retainer clip.

Glad you got it working. Ain't it a shame many auto repair shops try to rip people off. My AW4 was doing similiar thing as yours so I went around the corner to ______ trans repair and ask what it would cost to have a solenoid replaced that I had already diagnoised as the problem. Tryed to convince me that I needed a total rebuild as a solenoid wouldn't cause that problem. Got on the net & looked at AW4 schematics & fixed it my self for about $15. Crooks abound in all professions.

I believe they were the same from 84 -2000. If I'm wrong I'm sure someone on here is waiting with baited breath to correct me. I gotta get one myself, have one from a 98 lined up just got to get the rubber trim for it.

Put the canopy on for the Winter

slapped his lips

Damn, that was a real boner.

Thats good advice. That kind of a response can catch up to you in some of the strangest & most unexpected of circunstance. I've interviewed and hired many employees that found out that during their temporary trial period of employment their suitability to be retained was continuing to be researched. I often personally visited their former employers to do a little mining on their resume and interview info provided. It often was a decider in whether the person was considered retainable material beyond the temporary hire period. Efficiency, proficiency, reliabilty, honesty, are all traits that have to be considered to avoid a bad employee investment by empolyers. So they get the info where-ever and how-ever. Good luck on your new endeavor.

No snow in the valley, but, if you want to play in it, its just up the hill. At 2k' it 24-36" deep, at 4k' at some locales its 7' deep all ready & snow season has just begun. All my kid's will be sledding & skiing this weekend.

Get a can of Seafoam and follow instructions on label. Half through intake/throttle and half in gas tank & see what happens. Oh & put a new fuel filter on it first. Maybe it just dirty injectors????????????????/

I replaced mine with Auto Pal lights off of ebay. How-ever, I'm considering replacing them with Hella e code lights for a better light distribution pattern on both hi & lo beam. The e Auto Pal are bright but the light is focused in a narrow beam in my opinion which doesn't put enough light to the road sides. I want to at least see that deer before I smack it at speed. A good set of Hella 500 fogs with 100w bulbs is better than both if you want to light it up off-road.

89 steering column in MJ's are GM columns. Should be some of them in the junk yards across the border in Germany left there by US service members over the years. Get one out of a 85 - 90 chevy, pontiac or buick. New after market steering wheels are readily available for them from US sources. Good luck with the MJ projeact. Hugh

The CCCS (Comp Cmd Ctrl Sestem) was used on V6 models. Terminals 6 & 7 are used to receice codes. Find a Haynes manual for years 84 to 96 and it lists the codes.

I'd drive mine across states (2700 miles) if I had a reason to do it and wouldn't blink an eye. I would carry my title though just in case I did have to unload it. Just to visit my daughter is 800 round trip and I done that several times . Of course the MPG sucks..

Hearing is good.

They probally forgot/maybe screwed up the installation of oil pump pickup tube. If so you ain't pumping oil around in it to bearings etc.. Any spline swapping experts out there, do they have to get into the oil pump if changing that front spline?

Speaking of Ghia's, I still have one from years ago still sitting in the far corner of a circle irrigation field (Alfalfa). Haven't looked at it in several years,but, I suspect it is eaten up inside and shot full of holes by now. The way they rust it could be level with the ground by now.

36 Ford 3 window.

Also a nice 88 2WD listed for $800 http://portland.craigslist.org/nco/cto/2099028442.html

A 904 in an 88, isn't that unusua?. If it was the standard AW4 I would assume you have shift solenoid problems as you have described the problem.

Thats only 185 kilometes (2 houirs) from Seattle. I'll bet it's not a chrome one though.

Thought about driving down to Chrysler dealer to see if they would do the Oxygen sensor recall replacement on the MJ that they say was never done like 20 years ago. Nah, they wouldn't do that, waste of my time. So guess I'll just bolt that piece on thats suppose to protect the TC. I be able to get the 4 bolts in by 5 today.

You can take them apart and wind the spring a couple turns, or what ever it takes to get the correct tension for retraction of belt. Be careful while doing it as the spring must be held in place or it will unwind in the blink of an eye and just might cause damage to your flesh. And the 20 year old plastic is a little brittle and snaps easily. I just did a couple (a few months back) of spare ones I had laying around, I even took pics with the intention of posting them up put never got to it and have since dumped the pics. Sometime soon I'm going to do the ones in my DD MJ that are always in the door jamb.

Just drove 2 98 Rangers, looking for a new used truck. Decided to shy away from them as they both seem to have the same problems. When you put the auto in gear you get a momentary pause and then the clunk outa the tranny or rear end, couldn't discern which. When it shifted up the clunk was also obivious. The shift on fly 4x4 didn't active in either one either although one did manage to find low range. So don't think I'll bother at trying out anymore Rangers.

He's nuts. I'd start this thing on my driveway with the wife standing on top of it and then fly it, less the wife, to my lawn.

It's age related.