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Rokhound

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Everything posted by Rokhound

  1. Nice looking MJ I love this thing
  2. Rokhound

    long arms

    for that money I think I would have went with t and t Just my thougths
  3. It was 70 on Monday and now we have about 1/2" of snow I guess thats why I live in Iowa :roll:
  4. Sound almost like a Johnny Cash song to me :D Same boat the only thing is when you go to the parts house and they ask what year that truck is and you look at them and say what part. They stand there and look at you are :nuts: I think I am going to start calling it left over. Because that’s what I built it out off every bodies left over parts.
  5. Ok guys here is the last step of the DIY Axle Removal putting the axle back in. Sorry no pic then again it was 4:00 in the morning and all I wanted to do is get this thing in. 1. Slide you new axle under the truck (use 2 people) I did this by myself and it wasn’t easy but it can be done. 2. Slide the jack under the axle at the same time you are trying to lift the axle onto the jack (2 people again or duh leave the tires on) 3. Once you have axle on the jack and it is balanced jack the axle up into the upper control arms. Bolt the arms in do not tighten them yet. 4. Then move to one of the lowers (I did the passenger side first) after you have one lower bolted together take you jack out and move it to the opposite side of the axle of your lower control arm that you just bolted together. Now jack that side up flexing the axle so that you can get the coil spring in. BE CAREFUL Lower the jack and put in the other coil spring. After you have the coil spring in jack that side back up it get the lower control arm in. You will find out that the axle wants to pull back toward the truck (or mine did). What I did was I took a ratchet strap to one end of my d-ring on the bumper and the other one to that nice piece of ¼” steel that we welded in to brace the lower control arm and pulled the axle forward until the bolt fit. 5. Then go back and torque every thing to spec make sure you check this once or twice after you drive it awhile to make sure every thing is staying tight. 6. Hook your steering and track bar up 7. Install shocks and brakes That about all I can think of this being my first front axle removal and install I thought it went great.
  6. Rokhound

    need a funny

    All I can say is if you read all of this hopefully you will take something from it. This has to be one of the best stories I have read in along time.
  7. Rokhound

    need a funny

    i am on page 58 and i have pissed my self at least once
  8. Rokhound

    need a funny

    Read some of this you will roll :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: http://www.subkamran.com/sa/sa%20-%20bruiser.pdf I have final read all of this post and it is a great.
  9. Rokhound

    Rat Rod ???

    Well I think I have a plan. I have 3 trucks 87,88,89 MJ. The wife wants me to build here truck and I want it to be a 4x4. So I thought I would take the axles out from under the 88 put those under the 87 making it a 4x4 with the tranny from my trail truck. Then I will take the auto and t-case out of the 88 put it in the 89. Then pull the motor out of the 88 and build a stroker out of it. Then all I am left with is a shell of a truck with no motor or axles. Take the 2wd drive axle and some V-8 Grand Cherokee springs slam the front end back together and then find an axle for the rear end something like a Ford 9inche or something. Hold the phone I have an 8.8 out on the shop floor that will work. So now all I need is a 350/350 turbo. So that is the plan now I need to get the body figure out. I like the look of the MJ with the Waggy front end. So that will work for the front end. Then I am going to need to fix the rockers and the floor pans. I also want to chop the top 3 to 6 inches but there are a few things that I need to figure out. 1. Will me chopping the top weak in the unibody 2. The windshield custom or what 3. The bed what do I want to do there flat bed or something else And here is a pic of my maybe modern rat rod project we will see what happens.
  10. Rokhound

    Rat Rod ???

    Any rat rodders on here or no of a good place I can find some good info. I am looking for the best way to chop the top of a truck and wondering about the windshield and the back glass. Or just run with out one. What do you guys think is the best paint combo: I like flat black with red trim but you see a lot of this. So I want something old school with a new twists what do guy think.
  11. on this note if you or Comancheon33 come up with anther 2 wheeler that is just a shell I need it. And for about the same price. I would cut the 88 up but the rockers and floor are pretty bad plus it is 4wd. But then again the wifes truck is 2wd. And I am wanting to take the 5 speed out of my truck and put an auto in it. Never mind I think I am going to just hack the 88 up. So sorry for the hijack. :D
  12. that will work to :D there got to be one in every crowd
  13. They bolt in the same just the bleeder is on top instead on the bottom. I guess what I am saying is that you can put the passanger on the diver side and what not but they won't bleed right.
  14. i no I was givin you some $#!& thats all.
  15. hey your the one that asked for input
  16. I say leave it stock and put a 350 with a 350 turbo leave it 2wd do the whole 97 up and call it good you no that Comancheon33 will have something laying around with a 350 in it or he can find something. That way you could have a sleeper MJ :brows:
  17. Ok guys I just got a new to me axle from renixpower thanks for the hook up. And to Andy a guy that’s in our local 4x4 club for welding and fabricating the new lower control arm brackets supports. It is a disco axle the upper control arm is cast into the axle so I don’t think I am going to be able to bend this one like I did my other one. Now as far as the lower control arms go they are the same weak metal that my old axle had. So I had some 3/16 steel laying around and I put it to good use. I did not get any pic of the process but here is how it went: 1. Get some cardboard make a template of the lower control arm sides 2. Take that template put it on the steel plate that you want to use. And cut them out. 3. Weld in to place and you should get something like this. See pic below. Then we took a piece of steel that he had lying around the shop and welded a piece across the bottom for more support. If you add this piece make sure your lower control arms will clear. Here are some pic of my old lower control arm mount And now my new beefy lower control arm mounts. I still need to do some work to the axle be for I put it under the Jeep. I am going to put in a new ujoint on the driver side the passenger side has been replace recently so I thought I would do the other now before it breaks out on the trail. And add new gear oil and put in that vent hose thing in.
  18. well here is a bit of an up date. I have been wheeling the snot out of this truck since I rolled it out of the shop. So lets get to some cool pic/video. Wheeling shot looking down a hill Well this was going to happen sooner or later one more Here are some video: on board This is the hill that i layed my truck over and also tore the lower control arm So here is some pics of my front end axle damage.
  19. yeah now you tell me. It did rip the boot so I am going to need to replace the joint. As far as the inverted torque socket goes I did not put this front end under the truck it was already under when I bought the truck. So the guy my have used what ever he had laying around. They are those 6 point stars socket and mine was a T-45. They are like the ones on the top of the tranny (those 2 on the top) other than they don’t stick out they are sunken in to the head of the bolt. Here is a link that has a pic of what I am talking about. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94188 As far as leaving the tire on or taking them off I guess if it was a D44 or D60 I can see this but it is a D30. It can’t be that heavy and I like having everything out of my way when I am trying to take things apart. I really like these DIY threads I have learned a lot from doing it to the discussions that have fallowed. ANd thanks for the good words
  20. yeah those coil spring can be bad news I just wanted to make a point to be careful.
  21. My strong points are not spelling and or grammar. I had the wife look over it before I posted it but I see that I missed some stuff. But for the most part who reads the captions they just look at the pretty pics. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Yeah but man what a ride. :brows: ------------------------------------------------------------- As far as the caliper bolts go I could be wrong. They came with them when I bought them new this could be the reason --------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am not done with this post I will be reinstalling the axle after I beef up the control arm mounts on the new axle. This way I have an extra front axle to play with. I am think 4.88's, super 30 kit and a locker my be this time next year but then again..................... :popcorn:
  22. Ok let start the project there are few things that you are going to need tool wise. There is nothing special other than an inverted torque socket and a tuning fork. For this project I will say that it was easier than I thought I looks like a great big project but in the end it only took about 3 hr. This was my first time taking a front axle out of any truck. ****JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL WITH THOSE SPRING THEY CAN AND WILL FLY OUT AND TAKE YOUR HEAD OFF JUST BE CAREFUL. **** Ok lets get this truck in the air and the front tires off. I used my cherry picker to get it up high enough so that the front axle would hang down. **Make sure you support your truck with jack stand or jack just be careful.** Next I loosened the shocks, I left them attach to the truck just took the lower part of the shock off. I used a ½ socket and box end wrench. Then I took the brakes and rotors off. I went a head and left the brake caliper and brake lines attached to the truck save me from bleeding the brakes later. I all so took the rotors off. Mine took a 12 mm socket *****IMOPRTANT YOU CAN INSTALL BRAKE CALIPER UPSIDE DOWN**** ****THEY WILL NOT BLEED RIGHT AND YOU WILL NOT HAVE BRAKES*** Then I took the drag link off the pitman arm again you could take it off and the axle I wanted to pull the axle out as a whole. And you will need this tool I call it a tuning fork. What ever it is. Then I took the track bar off of the frame mount. Once again you could take it off at the axle end. ****IMPORTANT TO SUPPORT THE AXLE AT THIS TIME BY USING A JACK OR JACK STANDS SO THE AXLE WON’T FALL ON THE FLOOR**** Then you will need that inverted torque bit that I mentioned earlier to get the upper control arms off. Or at least I did. Driver side upper. Passage side upper: Then I took the lowers off at this time. Also at this time undo the front drive shaft. Mine takes a 8mm box end wrench. One more thing to add this is your freind when working on you Jeep ****There are more way to do this. This is just one way. I am not responsible for injury or damage done to you or your truck this is just a guide for you guys to get an ideal of how I took my axle out. *****
  23. thats the sad part $#!& i would say that the good part now you can drive the MJ Sorry about the car and glad to here that you ok
  24. I am getting started do something along this line other than I am taking my front 4x4 axle out and putting in a different front 4x4 axle. i tore my lower control arm mounts out wheeling. :roll: Yeah it is a drop and switch with that being said as I see it. This is the plan of attack for me. Now this may change when I get my truck in the shop. 1. Jack the truck up and pull the tires off 2. Put the truck on jack stands at the frame just behind the lower control arm mounts. 3. Take you drag link off you pitman arm 4 disconnect you track bar at ether at the axle side you mount side 5. Take your shocks off. 6. Take you brake caliper off and tie them to the frame out of the way(this way you don’t have to bleed the front brakes later). Also take your rotors off and mark them for driver and passenger side. 7. Then I would jack one side of your axle up so the spring on the opposite side will come out. 8. Now with the springs out and the axle being supported by the jack I would take the control arms off letting the axle down and out I think this will work or this is my plan. JUST MAKE SURE YOU ARE CAREFUL WITH THOSE SPRING THEY CAN AND WILL FLY OUT AND TAKE YOUR HEAD OFF JUST BE CAREFUL. As far as the rear goes it is drop and switch as well. i would by some new u-bolts. And BB blaster is your friend. Just soak those bolt a couple of day before you take the axles out. You are also going to need a 4x4 tranny and t-case. Then you’re going to need the front and rear drives to fit. Also make sure your gears match since your using the D30 and D35 from the same 4x4 they should match. It is a lot of work but man it is a lot of fun. One more note I would beef up you control arm mounts why your axle is out this is one of those thing that can be over looked. Now that I tore mine off I just suggest why the axle is out plate them or put on new ones. If you look at them they are fairly weak part of the axle. Happy :wrench:
  25. read this it is helpful. I my self would not take the door hinge off. It is a son of a gone to get in there but it can be done. http://projectxj.com/mods/doorless.htm
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