ftpiercecracker1

Thats what i was thinkin, cause i have never heard of anything like that.

Hornbrod whats the belt # for that setup? I finally picked up the neccesary bracketry and idler, but now i need to know what belt to get.

Got a picture? First time my hearing of this. :hmm:

Fixed. Turns out its quite important to fill the radiator with coolant and not just the overflow bottle. :dunce: Just because I could see circulation in the coolant bottle, did the proper bleeding via the gauge sending unit at the back of the head, AND had coolant pour out the switch bung did NOT mean there was sufficient liquid actually IN the radiator. On a whim i decided to fill the system through the top radiator hose. When i took it for a drive i got out and popped the hood to check for any leaks/problems and low and behold my fan decided to kick on. I let it cycle several more times just to be certain it wasnt a fluke. Yup it seems like all is well, this is with my old switch too. Now i am REALLY looking forward to getting in my other switch. This will make a pretty effective system when its all setup. Ftpiercecracker, now on to sovle world hunger. :D

HO Temp SENSOR in the thermostat: 3/8 NPT Renix radiator coolant fan SWITCH: 22mm x 1.5 (may be seen/listed as M22)

Ya, i will be checking into that and seeing about getting a new sending unit, possibly gauge too. Thankfully i was able to return that switch without any problems, it helps to be on a first name basis at the parts store. :thumbsup:

Why would there be a line running to the a/c relay from the ECU?

probably. :(

I am kinda lost, :hmm: What am i supposed to be checking? Oh and how would i go about testing my gauge sending unit and the gauge itself? I find it curious that my overflow bottle didnt blast into space with the temp reading 260*

very nice. :thumbsup:

1 or 2 threads? I wish i had known that ahead of time. :doh:

Update: Brand new sensor in place, back probing the socket the entire time, constant 12v, plugs are makeing good conntact. Still. Nothing. :headpop: And this time I let that B*TCH peg! I'm talkin 260* and still not a freakin thing. I am completely baffled now. :wall: I honestly am completely out of ideas now, there is zero reason for this fan not to come on. The only thing i can think of now is to buy a sensor that is of a much lower temp setting, thankfully i have located several. :) But thats more money, that i don't have. :(

Dude i'm sorry i'm not of much help, i don't know WTF is going on. :( I don't have much to offer but there can only be three things going wrong here, DB, Brake nut, or the brake line. Where the lines you bought pre flared?

Rockauto?

Printed on the top of head, Intake side, 3/4 of the way back, you should be able to see it without even removing the Valve cover, What year is your Jeep? I can probably tell you what it will be. EDIT: jesus i'm dumb just saw the rest of your post, might be 2688, but yours is HO so not exactly sure.

ORDERED! http://rodneydickman.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=233 I got the 210on 200off switch. Free shipping

LMAO :rotf: BTW i found this site, but the damn thing won't let me buy it. http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html

still better than the $100 they want for them at places around murfreesboro

Are you referring to the seal that slips over the pinch seam of the door and goes all the way around?

Brilliant deduction my dear watson. :D Thats precisely my plan.

80w-90 for your diffs and i am still not sure what the t-case takes, i have heard just about all of it, motor oil, auot trans oil, gear oil, baby oil, corn oil, oh wait, got of track. . . but you get the idea

So if i am to understand this correct, i need to find a +97 XJ with good condition outer window seals and strip them all out? I can handle the trimming, but i want to make sure to get the right items when i go.

Do the 97+ outter seals also work? How is this possible when +97 don't have the vent windows? or do they. :hmm:

I've been trying that for the last twenty years, i don't think "santa" is much of a mechanic. Anyway, i have an update. I have found several switches that will work in the T-stat housing (3/8 x 18) one of which i tried. It is a simple switched ground that makes contact at a certain temp, in this case about 224* (yes i know thats a little hot) It worked flawlessly and also added to my confidence that my gauge is working spot on. So, I put the switch in wired it to the fan plug and used another wire as a direct line to battery (+). Temp gauge was smack dab on 230* when the fan kicked on, swiftly bring the temp back down to 212* and turning itself off, all the while my other electric fan did nothing, the one using the stock sensor. 87manche might have already posted this link, but i will put it up again just in case. Summit racing sells the exact switch i would like to have but they want $40 for it! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-75099 I got mine from NAPA the connector and switch together were about $32 For a super simple dual electric fan setup that is entirely autonomous, i think the above summit switch and the stock renix switch paired with two OEM fans would make an excellent system.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_1009_jeep_a_c_repair_made_e_z/viewall.html Hopefully this will answer your questions. :thumbsup: