ftpiercecracker1

At some point I will turn this into a build thread, but it'll have to wait until I get a real computer. 78 j10, sbc, turbo 400, Dana 300. Current front axle is a P-drop, closed knuckle, D44. New (lift) leaf springs are directly in the way of draglink. Tried making an extra long pitman arm, it worked but was ghetto as hell. Finding a solid front axle of any kind around here, other than a D30, has been exceptionally difficult. Let alone a P-drop. Basically the only way I see to solve this is to convert to high steer, but I don't know what trucks came with flat top knuckles. Either that or replace the P-side drop t-case with a D-side. But again the problem with that, is I don't know what D-side drop transfer cases will bolt to the Turbo 400. I think a D30 from a WJ would be perfect. Big brakes, bigger universals, full width, same lug pattern as currrent, plentiful, and may come with LSD. LP is the only draw back. We also kicked around the idea of going hydraulic, but this truck will be used on the road occasionally. Cost and the thought of a line blowing leaving us with absolutely no way to steer scared us off. Thoughts? FPC

Remove and clean throttle body until you would be ok eating out of it. Clean IAC valve and port too. Adjust TPS according to Cruisers tips, if problem persists you may need to replace either the TPS or IAC. FPC.

First part has me stumped . . . for the moment. But the second part sounds like loose battery cables. Make sure the studs are super clean/shiny. Buy/make some good quality battery leads and make sure the clamps are tight/clean too.

I feel real special now cause I've got two 12cw cranks in my garage just waiting to be used. :D Didn't know they had achieved mythical status. BIG question, whats the deal with this crank spacer I keep hearing about? What connecting rod/piston combo is going to be used? What about injectors and fuel management?

I appreciate all the advice guys. I've decided to save my $400. Probably for the better. Ah well the hunt continues. FPC.

Really appreciate the heads up Eagle. Ok, so it looks pretty good overall even though the details are a little foggy. Dip stick and oil cap showed absolutely no signs of coolant contamination, although the oil has probably not been changed in 20k+ miles. It is NOT a 4x4 unfortunately. The a/c works, but the heat does not. . . according to the girlfriend. The body has one dent in the rear passenger fender. Approximately the size of a football, other than that the body is in excellent shape, the undercarriage is spotless as well. Starter just clicks when you turn the key. One strange aspect is none of the power windows, locks, or mirrors work at the moment. Could this be because the battery is low? It's strange because the wipers/blinkers/dash/radio all work. The boyfriend/girlfriend say everything worked good before it was parked. Boyfriend says the radiator was replaced prior to the HG issue. "Both" computers were replaced some time ago as well.

That's what I was afraid of. . . I will be going to check it out tomorrow, so we shall see. Impulserocket: I plan on doing all the work myself, so parts is going to be my biggest expense. Most of the time I just find what I need at the JY. Worse case scenario I can part it/scrap it and probably make most of my money back.

Update: A solution has been found! OP was on the right track with a reducer. His measurements represent the dimensions of the shaft and the tube, the problem is you can't use those measurements as to what reducer/coupling you need, since plumbing/tubing use some wacking non standard measuring system to organize their parts. A 1.5"x1" SCH 40 reducer fitting is in fact what you need. My store has two different kinds, one with a hex shoulder and one with a smooth shoulder. You want the fitting with the smooth shoulder. The shoulder portion of the fitting is what fits snuggly in the axle tube. The inner diameter is still a few thousands to big, but should be adequate for keeping a good portion of crap out. I paid $1 for two fittings. I will upload pictures once I have them installed. FPC

http://treasure.craigslist.org/pts/5452011276.html I spied this on Craigslist and wanted to know what you guys thought about buying it to fix it and resell. If it had the 4.0 I would have already bought it, but I'm hesitant because I know nothing about the 4.7 Anybody know anything about the 4.7 v8 that came in Grand Cherokees (WJ)? Owner says it is a 4X4 w/ 218k, and everything works perfect. Save, of course, for the blown head gasket. What do you think? FPC

I know this is pretty old, but I felt it necessary to update this thread. I bought exactly what the OP suggested from my local hardware/plumbing store. The people that work there are extremely knowledgeable and it says right on the rim 2"x1-1/4" PVC reducer fitting, schedule 40 but the fit isn't even close. OD is much to big to fit inside axle tube and ID is much to big for shaft. There is at least an 1/8th gap between the shaft and coupling. The test axle is a 99 XJ D30, if that matters. I will be investigating this further and will report back with my findings. FPC

Think I found the Craigslist posting. Sorry I cannot post pictures. Truck looks nice, but owner says the engine knocks when warm. Transfer case will not engage and passenger window is broken out. Hope this link works. http://chattanooga.craigslist.org/cto/5445351900.html If this is in fact not the truck in question, I apologize in advance.

Boy, I am sure glad I never heard that poor advice. There is nothing wrong with an 86 MJ. Sure they have a few quirks, but to avoid them completely is absurd. Yes, I was probably a bit to harsh. I'm glad to hear some people give the 86 some lovin, but after what I have witnessed and had to work on I can't, in good conscience, recommended one. Especially to someone who is most likely new to Comanches. FPC Edit: To the OP, the truth of the matter falls somewhere between mine and 87warrior/shelbyluvv's opinions. Is the 86 model quirky? Yes. Is it a guaranteed nightmare? Absolutely not. Is the 2.8 guaranteed to blow up as soon as you buy? Again no, but it has gained a bad reputation for a reason. The 86 model is unique among an already unique group. So if uniqueness is your thing than an 86 is what you want.

What gogmorgo said. $3700 is a good bit to pay for any MJ. Unless you just have to have it I would advise you to steer clear of any and all 86 year model MJs. Not just because of the 2.8 (V6), the general consensus is to avoid it at all costs, but a lot of other things differ from the rest of the model years as well. The 4x4 system, front clip mounting system, engine bay size/setup are all completely different. The 4.0 inline six will not fit into the 86's engine bay without significant modifications, to the engine bay. You won't be able to mix and match parts as easily as it would be if you had an 87+ model. No matter your decision we will be here to help. FPC

What the hell? How could that have happened? Any ideas what went wrong? Are they going to warranty it?

So after rereading eagles manuscript it seems there might be a chance that everything will be a direct swap, but a slim one. I will report back with my findings. FPC

Sorry for the delay. Had to wait until i could get to a computer to responded. Last month in 89. Rear axle is an 8.25 w/ 3.55, front is 3.07. I put the ball joints and wheel bearings in because it needed to be done if i wanted to continue driving it safely. I was moving to FL as well and would be hauling a ton of crap which made it all the more imperative. At that time i didnt have the money to buy a front axle to match the rear. Either swap everything, or nothing. So if someone wants to use a newer axle it has to be complete calipers, rotors, and wheel bearings. yes, 00 and 01 were LP Thanks for the input guys, FPC

Yes, that is correct, but I am going to be swapping the entire axle. I need to know what I can take off of my old axle and put on the new one. Ex: can I put the old wheel bearings on the new axle

Tried using search, but it is not working right on my phone for some reason. Just bought a 99 XJ Dana 30 from a friend. What all can be swapped over onto the newer axle from my old one? The balljoints (XRF) and wheel bearings (TIMKEN) on my current axle are newer and in great shape. Is it advisable to remove and reuse balljoints in such a way? What about brakes? Is it straight bolt on? Thanks, FPC

We've had that truck for a number of years now. Doesn't look half as good now as it does in my avatar. Sadly its not much more than a giant yard orinament right now and that is chiefly due to financial constraints. Someday she'll ride again, someday. Before I eat foot pie again allow me extend a proper welcome and thanks to you for your service. I will be entering the USCG in just a few short months myself. Best wishes, FPC.

If you took offense to my comment allow me to apologize. :oops: I know ARBs are stupid expensive just by themselves, not including the gears, compressor and other pieces. Sooo yes, from my perspective you are one rich mofo. :D

Sounds to me like you've got plenty of money. :yes:

Well, both my 88 and the 96 are 4cyl, manual base models, and don't know if JEEP just put the whole (every option) harnesses in every model 'just in case' to save on labor and mistakes. Well Anywho, I swapped the 99 onto the 96 to find out that since it's the 4cyl, the upper radiator support 'beam' is lower, there is a huge gap. And will have to go back and pick that up from a 6cyl. (also a torx and extension bit to fit the screws. ...dang socialists) Your first pic shows an electrical relay 'station'. Is this YOUR addition like the fuse block you made up on the fire wall? Cause I don't see it on either of mine. Yes, the only bank of relays that came factory on MJs are on the P side fender well. 4 in a row. There is sometimes another relay on D side fender well for an electric cooling / air con fan. Also, as your pic of the 8 pin connector, which ones are for headlights, marker and turns? These two links should answer all you questions. http://comancheclub.com/topic/17155-adapting-mj-headlight-harness-to-97-xj-harness/ http://comancheclub.com/topic/19815-97-headlight-wiring-harness-diagram/ Can I splice more than one light into a wire without issues? Under the right circumstances sure. Can you be more specific? What are you trying to accomplish?

This is a good start but as already stated, with the gazillion different suppliers/brands it would be impractical to try and incompass them all with their own individual section. I really like the idea of a dedicated product/supplier review page. Separate them into two distinct tabs and i think that would be adequate. Let the search function perform its task. To help make sure people can find what they are looking for have the poster put the product/supplier name in the title of his post, in plain English, and the word good or bad depending on the experience. That way it should be easy to find and the one looking for reviews will know right away if it was a positive or negative experience. Example: Supplier review tab Title: Summit racing, good I Ordered a set of propane cup holder warmers from summit on Monday and received them on Friday. One was missing from my shipment so called customer service. They were friendly and very apologetic. The sales rep shipped the missing unit free of charge same day

And if it is a c clip? What about on an 8.25? Thanks

How hard are the outer bearings to replace on an D35? Are they pressed in/on? Any special tools required? Thanks, FPC