ftpiercecracker1

Ooor you could convert to disc all round. Pretty sure this can be done on the Dana 35. I know it can be done with Chrysler 8.25 because I did mine. 4 wheel disc + booster upgrade = put you through the windshield brakes. If you got the coin you could upgrade even farther by using WJ front brakes, but that is very involved.

Yes, well, I don't know for certain, but my Eliminator had lighted sunvisors driver and passenger. Worked great until the day I took them out.

🤣 🤣 Sh*t gets me every time.

Forgot to answer your question. I just googled images for "jeep 4.0 block."

Thanks guys. Building the bracket tonight hopefully.

I am working on a bracket that will relocate the alternator to the position of the A/C compressor. The a/c compressor will be slung under the alternator. I'm concerned about breaking the cast iron bosses off the block where the bracket will mount. I plan on using the three bolts that form a triangle on the front passenger side of the engine. See pic. I'm pretty confident the 3, 5/16 bolts will be just fine, I just worried that the brittle cast iron bosses will break off with to much bouncing and jarring. I expect the bracket alone to weigh 10-15lbs was going to use 1/4in mild steel plate. Then the a/c and alternator together will add another 10lbs, I think. The bracket will be roughly sideways T or L shaped with little bracing due to space constraints. This is not my block BTW, just the best pic I could find. My block has two more threaded bosses below and to the rear of the bottom circled bolt.

You mean to tell me your plug wires were glowing in the dark, but not arcing/shocking you?

That has got to be so frustrating. You spend big bucks and get crap. But your saying that if any plug wire, cheap or expensive, shocks you it should be considered bad and replaced, right? I've been hit by them just once before and don't want to experience that again. How do you test the integrity of plug wires? I should ask, what is a better way of testing plug wires than just spraying water on them? It seems touching them is the ultimate test, but I REALLY don't wanna do that.

Checked your fuses?

So. . . 1. Arcing is not normal under any circumstance. 2. Cheap/poorly insulated wires will/can shock you, but could be considered normal. 3. High end/well insulated wires will neither arc or shock. What makes the taylor wires so special?

I've done a fair bit or searching, both on this forum and the internet in general, but haven't come to a clear conclusion. Is it normal for plug wires to shock you if touched or arc when sprayed with water?

Oooh, for some reason I though you ment vehicles that had slid off the road and into pastures/fields during winter. I was very confused, but I got the picture now.

Ya, I'm bad about dumping whatever is within reach in for coolant . At least in my Jeep, my daily that I rely on I'm much more finicky. I should have been more specific, I didnt understand the bit about abandoned vehicles with clean coolant. Why were they abandoned and why does it matter they had clean coolant?

For 10-12k you should be able to pick up a cherry first gen tundra or a decent second gen. Toyota would be my first choice. Current daily is an 02 tundra, paid $4k for it last year. Its was a smokin deal. Chevy would be second, because of the big 3 they seem to have the best track record. Then Ford Then Dodge. You have a really good budget to work with, no matter what make you choose you should have bo problem finding a really nice, low milage truck.

Not following you, but you are right about the different parts of the world thing. I'm in south FL and I think your in Canada correct?

Doing a reverse Google image search reveals that image and several others from that posting are also used for several other postings. Including intercoolers for subarus, radiators for motorcycles and other vehicles. The question now is, do you consider that just normal marketing or something fishy to stay away from?

Give that man a cookie. I did a quick Google search of intercoolers and found loads of examples like this.

If the picture above is not representative of the actual product, when it seems obvious that's what the seller wants you to think, shouldn't that be considered fraudulent advertising?

This. So much this.

If that truly is the case it sounds like a huge flaw. IMO, what minimal efficiency you might gain, the significalty increased chances of it clogging completely negate. Unless you had a good coolant filter and pristine coolant at all times, neither of which I've ever had, I would never knowingly use a rad with internal fins.

While looking at radiators I found this one https://www.amazon.com/GPLUS-Aluminum-Radiator-CHEROKEE-COMANCHE/dp/B07CSQZ78X/ref=mp_s_a_1_29?keywords=jeep+radiator&qid=1552018019&s=gateway&sr=8-29 on Amazon, but while looking at the pictures I saw this and i can't figure it out. Are those fins inside the radiator tubes?

I found mine on craigslist too, think I paid $75? Natural aluminum finish, low profile, absolutely love it. I just wish my truck was a long bed, cause it does take up a decent amount of room.

It doesnt get hot when parked, but does when in traffic. Hmmm. Can we get a picture of your fan setup? How many miles do you have on the rebuild? A fresh engine can run a little hot until its fully broke in.

Do you have a temp gauge with numbers or just a C and H? If its number what is it actually reading? Have you ever let it sit and idle to see how high it goes? The temp gauge reads from a sender located in the very way back of the cylinder head where it is hottest. How are your fans controlled? Do they push or pull air through the radiator? This is slightly on the cold side of normal. Any where between this and 210 is normal running temp. 195° being ideal.

How is this possible in the first place? I guess the thermostat even fully closed is still letting to much coolant through? I know it can happen, but I thought it took temps deep into the negatives before lack of engine temp became a problem.