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WOW, you been jumpin' that thing?

11. Must be nice. I have one dead MJ in my back yard and just got a letter from the village code enforcement officer wednesday to get rid of it in a week or get fined. Boy I miss living in the country.

With the equipment and fab work I've seen in CW's pics, I think he could make a LayZ Boy fit in there. If ya can, do a good documentary on how you make em work. :thumbsup:

I would have always agreed with this until I bought my 87 with the old style tapered roller bearing hub instead of the ball bearing type. I had a huge amount of play (27 " tire had about 3/4 inch movement 6:00 - 12:00). I had driven it 20 miles to work and thought I had a bad TRE. NEVER growled one bit. But I do agree that if you're having that much of a camber issue to check BJ's really well. After 26 years of wrenching for a living, not much suprises me any more. Especially on Jeeps :D

She got a sister? Oh wait, I'm already married. Sounds like ya got yourself a keeper there.

And throw in a couple of the Scrambler while you're at it. :drool:

I was a Jeep nut before I met my wife, so she knows nothing different. Always knows she can buy me anything with "Jeep" on it for a gift and I will like it. I lifted my 93 ZJ and she didn't even notice :nuts: . She likes my 87 MJ cause it's an auto and I let her take it to the store and such (over her 04 WJ? :nuts: :nuts: ). I figure I could get away with 3 to 4" lift and it would get past her. She knows if I'm not buying stuff for the Jeep I'll just buy more pistols :D

Absolutly. Haven't been able to catch 'em live yet but have a couple CD's of live stuff.

It isn't the thickness. It is the length of the lining material. The theory being is that the rear brakes on our trucks are dual action braking. As the front shoe contacts the moving drum it is forced down and back in to the rear shoe which is pressed against the drum at the bottom and the top (wheel Cyl pressure). The shorter material on the primary is supposed to help keep the shoes from locking up prematurly. Of course the reality is that the rears don't do all that much anyway and you can run with the shoes on wrong for two years with no problems :D :cheers:

Sorry to tell you this, but you have two secondary shoes on that side. The front shoe ( primary) should be an inch or so shorter in lining material. Check the other side, it probably has both short shoes on it.

Is this with the truck still on jack stands, or sitting on the wheels?

1. Dead 2. Allman Bros 3. Little Feat 4. Clapton 5. Bob Marley

Yes, you would need the auto tranny TPS and a shift detent cable bracket. There should be one tie in to starting with the neutral safety switch (range selector) as well. Not that you HAVE to be safe, we are Jeepers after all :D

I would suggest trying to find longer wheel studs if you are going to use a spacer. IIRC there isn't much stud left after installing those Al wheels as it is. Of course, you could just give those grease caps a little love tap with every Jeep owners favorite tool. :D

Must be you are 2wd? Try and find something to use for a grease cap that doesn't stick out quite as far, and you definitly don't want to run w/ out the cap.

Mini-bus = lifted ZJ

Stay safe Cole. Take lots of pics when you can. Other than the bombs and shooting, I bet there's some good wheelin' over there. Maybe you can send back some HUMMER suspension parts to add to your MJ :D

The WJ arm conversion does work great though, with minimal cost and a much beefier arm. I modded a set for my 93 ZJ and ran 31's with 2 1/2 " BB up front. Before arms the tires rubbed on full lock, not after.

:D :D :D I think you mean WJ here, not Libby . Damn, you almost made the guy castrate his truck. :D :D :D

Nice truck. Still got your mini-bus?

Your belt is probably just coolant soaked. Not much you can do for it. Sometimes spraying it down with brake parts cleaner helps, sometimes not. Be VERY careful if you try the running belt trick. Have personally seen TWO guys at work break fingers because they had their hands run through pulleys trying to rub stuff on a belt with engine running. New belt=$35: broken fingers, lost work time, embarrassment =$$$$$. On a side note, since you also work for Chrysler... did you see the recent issue of the DCX times where the guy at the Denver parts depot got caught for selling stolen parts on E-bay? Over $300,000 worth!

Most auto parts stores will have relays with a connector for them to spice in to. Also look for one that has a mounting tab to screw it to your inner fender or somthing. Illuminated switches are sometimes different. Some use a separate power wire, some just use the switched power, etc. If you go to a non illuminated switch, you can use B+ at the relay for power source and for switching part of the relay, and activate the relay with the ground wire running to your switch. That is just one less hot wire to run through the firewall. Also, do they need to be hooked up to your headlights in any way to satisfy local law? What wattage are they? If they are just 55w, no problem, but if they are over 100w, I would recommend using a heavier guage wire btwn the relay and the lights.

Strongly recommend using a relay, and using a better ground than the bumper. Also makes a difference if the switch is illuminated or not.

Recheck all your fuses. One of those wires is hot even with the key out. Hopefully that is all it is. If you back fed 12v into your stereo through the speaker wires, could be toast. Sorry.