mpace6a

Since I want to keep body damage to a minimum on the mj, but still want to do some rough, down n dirty wheeling, I've been contemplating buying a title less xj to satisfy my wheeling needs. The problem is I have a low budget, so was planning on going 50-50 on it with a friend, with full intentions of making it a cheap down n dirty wheeler. Was hoping for some suggestions to keep it as cheap as possible, yet fairly capable. won't be liftinf it more than maybe 3 inches, possibly welding spider gears since it will be trail only rig. Ideas?

Drive it, because hopefully it'll be running by the end of the month!

Thats exactly how all but one of the autozone's near me are. I refuse to go there unless i need a part asap that only they have in stock

Now we just need to make a list of all the mutual wants, send it to jeep, and tell them its a must have!

For a new truck, I'd say the 97+ front end, and do like they did with the xj's in 97 and "soften" the body lines, smooth em out and what not. As far as engines, Medium size v6 like the 4.3, small v8, and 4bta as options. LIft would be standard, i don't much like the stock ride height. maybe offer something with a 2-3" lift over what was stock with 31's, and then a 6" lift with 33"s for an off road package. Towing package option with D44's all around. IN an offroad package add lockers as an option front/rear. 4x4 standard with the 242 tcase 4spd auto, 5spd option for v6/v8, and a 6spd option for the diesel.extended cab similar to the s10 with a 6.5ft bed, or standard cab with the 7 foot bed as options. solid windows, not the vent windows we see pre 97. keep the interior the same, but with the 30-20-30 style seats with a folding console, or buckets with a solid console. personally i would keep electronics to a minimum as i am not a fan of them unless they, and their wiring is simple.Also Have a "hidden winch" option behind the front bumper as well.

Here, Nearly all the autozones suck, I've had one good experience, and thats the one 5 miles away. The closest store to me is an autozone, and i'd rather drive and extra 2 miles to go to the closest oreilly's, because they all know their stuff, except one guy, maybe 2 since they just hired someone new. But were on a first name basis :thumbsup:

I just spent ten minutes reading random threads on it..because i CAN!

Looks good! Only problem I see is threads not showing up as "read" after i've read them. Some have, some have not. Oh, and some smilies arent showing up? On the smilies note, I like that theres more now, especially this guy :MJ 2:

Thats one clean looking MJ :thumbsup:

Funny thing, when i bought my MJ, it only had a passenger, no driver side mirror. Even had the plastic cover that hides where the mirror adjuster sticks into the cab

Looks good! I have a long bed too, and the stance with 6-6.5" of lift and 33's is perfect! can't wait to get mine to that point

Minecraft... :cheers:

because I don't want to pay the exorbitant amount of money they want for VB. Basically I am covering the cost of the software is part of the reason we are going with IP.Board. The other reason is that one of the sites I work on, minecraftforum.net, gets 8.5 million monthly unique visitors and about 2.5 million page views a day. We exclusively use IP.Board for our large web sites except one vBulletin site. Our largest vBulletin site does about 37% of the traffic of minecraftforum.net, but requires the same amount of resources. IP.Board also is typically more secure than vBulletin due to how it is architectured.

i would say don't attempt the 2.8...i have one and looking at all the vacuum and emissions stuff still scares me :ack:

:ack: The unfortunate life of a moderator. Anything that makes life easier for you Pete should be a good thing. :cheers: :chillin: :cheers: looks good to me! and i agree, if it makes it easier on you and fixes bugs, its good enough! also, mobile=awesome! :thumbsup:

done basically the same thing. using an oxy/acetelyne torch, no clamp, figured i'd just hold it in place with my boot since it was a low table. small spark landed on the frayed part of my jeans, right by the heel of the boot. got pretty warm quick

I thought the movie was pretty good. But that aside, there is a clean looking white mj in the end where you said, just watched it again to check

:clapping:

Fruit trees just don't produce fruit sugar to make an appreciable dent. Sugar beets would be one of the better sources for you. Under ideal farm conditions sugar beets will produce about 40 tons/acre/year. Thats with petrochemical fertilzers and pesticides, lets assume you have neither since after all we are talking about the end of the world as we know it. Second, lets assume you are not a professional farmer who knows exactly how to farm to get the best yield. I'm going to round off those factors and say under the best conditions you get a 25 ton/acre/year yield. Sugar beets typically have a sugar content around 17%, the problem comes in efficiently extracting the sugar from the beets. If you were just to mash them up and ferment them you would not get all the sugar out in suspension where the yeast can eat away at it. One such method to extract sugar is to use alcohol, sugar is highly soluble in alcohol, so mash your beets up and run the mash through an alcohol wash. Run the sugar alcohol wash through some sort of still (a passive solar condensation still would be ideal here so you can reuse that alcohol. But again, there will be loose here as well. I suspect you will not get the full 17% as under ideal conditions, in fact I think you will be lucky to hit 10%. Getting higher yields is the sort of thing companies like Cargill pay PHd Chemists and Engineers 100k + a year salaries for. So far we have 25 tons/acre, 3 acres, 10% yield of sugar. That gives us about 15000 pounds of sugar........thats an appreciable amount of sugar, but we still need to convert that to alcohol. Wild yeasts will have a very low yield, bakers yeast are better, and distillers yeast is best, however without a continual supply of fresh yeast it will be difficult to keep high yeilds up. So we will assume under ideal conditions you can keep a bakers strain of yeast propagated. Now the next issue you will run into is having the proper nutrients for a high yield wash, with a good source of phospate(DAP etc) you will run into a wall real quick. All said and done without proper nutrient washes you will hit about 9-10% yield at the highest. Now what that means is that you will have a low alcohol wash that is going to take more energy to distill than a higher % wash. The Enthalpy of vaporization for ethanol is 0.841 KJ/gram. The Enthalpy of vaporization for water is 2.23 kJ/gram. The energy density of ethanol is 26.8 kJ/gram At a 10% wash: 2.23 * .90 + .841 * .10 = 2.1 kJ/gram 2.1/26.8 = 8% of your product that will need to be burned to produced the heat required to distill your product at the bare minimum. Thats not counting any other thermal efficiency losses.....even a 20% figure is realistic and damm near as good as you could get. so you have 15,000 lbs of sugar.....you ferment that, make a bunch of low % wash, and then distill that. Assume you are not doing a vacuum distillation you are going to hit about 95% output with a reflux still, that equates to about 1040 gallons of 95% alcohol. Assuming a 20% efficacy loss you have 832 gallons of fuel. Now compare to gasoline, gasoline is about 48.1 kJ/g compared to 26.8 kJ/gram. That means the pure alcohol has 55% less energy than non ethanol gasoline. Lets look at it another way, that 832 gallons of pure alcohol is more like 458 gallons of gasoline. Thats not even looking at how much of that fuel you will need to use to plant/grow/harvest and transport the sugar beets to make the fuel. You need lots of sugar. Source: ME with a background in alternative fuels and a distiller. well then. Back to the drawing board to fit a 4bt in the manche.

I was estimating around 10k to get it going...less is always better. What transmission/axles are you running?

plenty of fruit trees round here. Plus we have a 3 acre garden about a 5 minute walk up the road we tend by hand. use the diesel kubota for plowing and thats it

It takes lots of sugar to make alcohol...........LOTS Lucky for us, sugar is not too hard to acquire. its in every fruit we eat, vegetables, grains, etc.

Thats pretty awesome. Though just because your diesels sip fuel doesnt mean us carb guys won't be there, we can run straight alcohol no problemo!

personally i don't see the point in re curving springs. your taking weak metal, and bending it back into shape. to me it seems like it would not last near as long to have them recurved. Makes more sense in my head to buy new ones

:eek: Where the hell do you get that estimate? I was estimating 5-6k doing all the work myself 4bt swap forums, you need a minimum of 4.5in of lift just to clear the oil pan and have stock suspension travel. tons of mods to get the engine itself to fit, and an engine alone usually costs around $2500. iirc, just getting the engine to fit in the bay is roughly 8000 in labor/parts. thats just making it fit right. and parts are god awful expensive. example being the injection pump is ~4000