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2.8 ax5 under my truck. Most I'd ever driven a standard before was backing my dads old ford escort into and out of the garage. Once my jeep was road worthy, i backed it out of the garage, and drove it around the block about 15 times. Easiest manual I've ever driven, then and now. Granted, my trans is about as loose as the nice lady who hangs out at the local bp askinig for cigarettes, but regardless, just read a little, maybe watch a youtube vid or two, and go do it. Once you get a feel for taking off from a stop, go to a cemetary or a large, hilly parking lot and get a feel for taking off on hills. Once your rollin its as easy as fallin off a horse backwards.

ok well i know i got a open rear end cause i jacked one rear wheel off the ground and could spin it, but bein that it is open and i do have the trailer wirin should i add gear oil as if it was a limited slip like in the manual or just because it has the trailer wirin does that not mean it has the trailer package Redwolf any vehicle, up to and including a toyota prius, can have a trailer wiring harness. They are extremely simple to add on, and seeing as how you don't have an amc 20, the heavy duty axle used with the towing package, its a very safe assumption that you don't have a trailer package. Again, like the guy above me said, open up your diff, you'll know for sure, then borrow someones car to go to autozone and buy some gear oil. Simple as that, and it'll be done in an hour.

Thanks I'll check that out. Also, just noticed I posted this in the pub and not tech when i couldnt find it in the tech section....I'd move it myself...but don't have the glorious admin powers to do so!

So, I got death wobble a while back. This past week i changed my ball joints, and while i was at it the axle u joints. Seems to have solved the death wobble, but theres still a clunk in the front, seems to be coming from the drivers side. Mostly just hear it when making left turns, sometimes on right hand turns, but nowhere near as loud. I know i need new swaybar bushings, but aside from that and ball joints, I'm not sure what would cause it to clunk? Any ideas?

Thats what I swapped into my 86, a newer 2.8 out of an s10. Swapped essentially every accessory, intake, timing cover, valve covers, water pump, oil pan etc, because, while the blocks are the same, everything else was changed when they switched the tbi, and I didnt want to switch to tbi. Though in hindsight it may have been a better idea... Regardless, the newer block castings solved the oil flow issue in the lower end, so you don't spin a bearing like my original engine did!

Awesome! Remember the first, and only, time i was ever in a plane. Cessna 172, flying from the pilots seat, between a small airport near Whitman Air Force Base and Lee's Summit, MO. An awesome experience!

don't really mud my mj because its bone stock and i worry about blowing a rod through the 2.8's block, but i did pull my brother xj out of a ditch in the mud...i don't think its a weight issue at all, just tires more than likely. Brand new destination at's on my mj, and it will go anywhere you point it so long as i don't hang up on anything. Especially if you have a rear locker, id place the blame on tires.

Eh, still counts! Wish i could find a clean bed around here...all of em are beat to hell and back.

That is correct. The actual seals for the differential are as i noted above; driver is located at pumpkin, passenger is outside the shift collar if you have the split shaft otherwise it too is at pumpkin on 91+axles. The plastic thing out by the knuckles does not make any seal whats so ever think of it more as a slinger for larger debris . The tube sealer thing i sent a link for is purely aftermarket and is just added security for someone who just put a lot of money into it and is paranoid in my opinion, or maybe they're like my friend who continuously thinks his Cherokee is a boat and floats the damn thing. Huh...maybe a good investment for me then.... :rotfl2: Thanks for the help though, now i can get it all put back together since i know its all right! Missed my mj while it was down...ball joints took a lot longer than they should have.

So the gaps supposed to be there, but wouldnt that mean that water and smaller debris could still get inside the tube? or is there a seal furthar down the tube, closer to the differential that keeps everything out?

We plow our driveway and street with a Kubota tractor, rear blade mounted on the 3point hitch. Have since I was a little kid. Try to get some pics up little later.

One thing about using your phone as a GPS, if you don't have data, your google maps won't work. There are map apps out there for free, like Orux maps, that you can download maps of specific areas to your phones memory card, and then it will still work without your data connection, just the GPS. And I had a tomtom as well, and can't really say too much good about it either. Pretty much the same issues as everyone else, and it constantly needed updated maps installed on it, and it would freeze up alot. Not a brand I'd recommend. Never heard a bad thing about garmins, old, new, handheld, or otherwise.

Spin your tires and count it out. My 2.8/ax5/d35 truck has 4.10s. I would imagine yours does as well, but being an 86 where nothing was really controlled by sub models, it could be anything. Also, nice bodywork zack, truck looks great!

Your transmission is an AX5. See whats circled in red? That would be a rusted, steel spacer in the transmission. It CANNOT be a T5 because they are all aluminum. Anther picture of a clean ax5, off the chance you still doubt it:

The 9.25, from what I've heard, is a fairly strong axle. The front is just a full width d44...not sure if high or low pinion though. never had an issue from the 9.25 in our dodge, and i have a heavy foot, and do alot of towing and hauling with it.

Put brand new tires on it (205/75 R15 Firestone Destination A/T's) once i finally got it road worthy, checked the wheels, balanced, and everything down at dads shop (he's a commercial tire salesman). Biggest reason i thought it was the ball joints is the extreme camber and vertical wobble it had, that and the lower ball joints wiggled around like a snake with its head cut off. Hopefully this is my last question, is this gap between the axle shaft and tube supposed to be there? If not how do i fix it? Everything is torq'd to spec, hub bolts, hub nut (axle nut?) and nothing wiggles, but it doesnt look right to me? :dunno:

:yeah that:Make it mopar, put a 5,9 in it! :thumbsup: Jeeps had Chevy and Buick engines in them long before they had ChryCo engines. I know, my 2.8 shows me how well chevy engines work in jeeps. Only chevy engines I'm personally a fan of are the tbi 5.7 and the 4.3's, and i wouldnt put them in a jeep.

Yeah thats exactly how mine were...i wasnt sure if it was just an issue with how they were drilled since the bottoms are fine, but glad to know its simple and i don't need to press them out and put new ones in!

There was quite a bit of up/down movement of the wheels. I put a steering stabilizer on as a quick fix after getting death wobble the first time, but it got so bad that even with the stabilizer the front end would shake and vibrate at 40mph. I put in the moogs from my local orielly's.

More questions...The castle nut is too high for the cotter pin to ride in a gap...can i put it in, do i need new joints or new castle nuts, or do i just need a washer? And theyre torq'd down to 75 ft/lbs... Drivers side Passenger side Sorry for the crap quality,...odd angle, the camera wouldnt focus, but you get the idea i hope.

^Unless someone swapped it out, then its a 35. 8.25's are not stock in mjs, and a dana 30 is a front axle, so if you have a rear dana 30 you would have all wheel steer or bigger issues. As for a 44, pretty sure they only used the amc20 in 86, and not the 44. Deductive reasoning and little bit of knowledge=Dana 35. That tire size change is inconsequential and will work just fine. You are only expanding the size a quarter inch in any direction. Whether the 2.8 can turn them is another matter.... :crossfingers: :banana: it should turn em it a 2.5 can, Redwolf It'll turn em, but not well. Just because the 2.8 makes 160hp on paper, does not mean it does in real life. And as far as your transmission goes, a magnet will work, yes, but unless it was stored inside and climate controlled it will be rusted like in the picture,and that tells you its a steel divider and not aluminum, because aluminum does not rust. i can't tell if my tranny is rusty or not, there's that much greese and stuff on it, but if it is a steel tranny it's an ax5 right? then i gotta be doin the test wrong cause that's what i came up with :???: Redwolf Your trans won't be steel. It will have a steel DIVIDER in it, like the picture I posted. The only rusty spot you see on the transmission is the steel divider. And yes, if it has a steel divider, it is the AX5.

Wasnt actually in warsaw, just the closest town to where we saw it. On a backroad near the lake itself, somewhere around the 80 mile marker.

Looks like a buddies did before he just removed it...lots of staples! Gotta admit...looks like a lot of fun, not quite worth the potential cost...but still fun, and a helluva way to wash the mud off!

Ulysse Speedometer is a pretty cool gps speedo, with an optional HUD, pretty cool. Theres a ton of different maps apps, trackers, etc, things like that. Rob posted awhile back about an obd scanner app....don't remember what it was called, but it used a bluetooth plug in for the obd port under the dash. As for shooting, I have a shooting ballistics calculator for long range shooting, and theres a reloading ballistics calculator as well, havent done much with it though...

Theres one like that down around Warsaw, MO (Lake of the Ozarks area), only i believe its a boom truck for the power company.