Jeep Driver

If you're going to that much trouble....why not just get a newer XJ axle?

Please let us know how well it works. Thanks

If it were me- Remove pan. Use hole saw to cut hole around the existing drain. Use saw that is just larger than the nut as to use the nut as a guide for the saw. Go the muffler shop or auto store and get a new bung. TIG new bung to pan. If you cannot TIG or find someone who can....braze it in. I would not try to MIG it and take the risk of blowing a hole in the pan, metal is too thin, I also would not want a leak at the weld by not having a continuous weld. Clean pan and reinstall. The idea of drilling it out and repair in place is simply stupid, you will not get all metal shaving out of the pan and you will ask for future troubles.

I want to get rid of the mini console and boot this shifter to the floor. Then- I want to use this knob on this- And boot the TC to the floor. Has anyone done this and if so how did you make the two boots work out in such a close area? Thanks

I called JeepAir last week as their site does not list the hoses for the 2.5 They told me that the hose deal is all BS and to blow out the hoses with compressed air and reuse them.

Hey jeep driver when you bought this kit did you have to change anything over? Or did you use the old r12 system or the r134? Any hoses? It will come as a 134a kit and the compressor is labeled as such.

Have you checked the JYs? should be about $20 New, they are over $100 IIRC

He's in the Netherlands.

Adjustable UCA would allow you to adjust your pinion angle.....how that would effect your steering....IDK.

Crap that sucks if it's going out.... Only had the pump for 3 years.... Airtex?

I would check your wiring to the pump....may be grounding out. Or your pump is on it's way out.

Here is a 98 Durango with a 5.2 V8........looks like a GM style pump to me......... Did you or have you considered all options from other models?

I wish you had posted pics........... You have thee fit issues....as I see it. 1, total diameter of pulley. 2, shaft diameter of pulley. 3, alignment of pulley. 1, if XJ pulley is 5 1/4" and GM pulley is 4 3/4" the difference may be 50-60 rpm at the pump......in my opinion that will not make much of a difference. 2, plastic pulleys have a metal sleeve at the hub, steel pulleys do too but may have more meat at the hub to be bored out to fit. Billet aluminum pulleys will likely have the most meat at the hub to be bored out to fit. If you order a plastic pulley to fit a 5/8 shaft and the shaft on your pump is 3/4, it will not fit as there is not enough sleeve to bore out. Image Not Found 3, Belt alignment will be the greatest concern IMO. Considerable difference in the pulleys from the 2.5 to the 4.0 for example. What will you do when the pulley needs to be moved out 1/2" or in 1/2" and you only have 3/4" of shaft to work with?

I cannot believe you did not set at TDC on the compression stroke before removal. And no, your new set will not just slide on.........and yes, you can find yourself with one tooth off with the new chain, it ain't stretched. I suggest you put it back on and return to TDC and verify compression stroke with distributor on #1 cylinder.

Swap the relay and see what happens.

Your gauge cluster looks to be an 86 model year. And yeah, it matters.

Another way to do it- Soak in penetrating oil........a day or two........apply 3-4 times per day. Soak the head....also soak from the inside of the door....with the window up you should be able to get the can and hand up through the speaker hole. Use cutting wheel in the same angled die grinder to cut slots in the head. Use chisel to tap the head of the bolt in a CCW direction until it moves 1/4 turn......cut another slot and do the same. Once the head is moved out from the hinge you can get a pair of vice grips on it and turn it out.

Disconnect your door check so they open all the way. Use the above in an angled die grinder to destroy the heads of the bolts.....start at the stripped out torx socket hole and work it around until the head is gone at the bolt shank. Will take a strong and steady hand.....if not you.........find someone that can. There is no reason to remove the pin and no excuse for destroying the hinge. You'll also need a helper......or build a door support.....or both. I could have those four bolts done in about 1/2 hour.......patience.

If the E-fan is not working, only 50% of your radiator has any drawn air moving through it. Yeah, makes a difference.

$65 to your door is pretty damn cheap. However, as danby said, the AA return policy is hard to beat. As to the AA discount deal........here in E TN we have 10% sales tax and if the AA store does not stock it cannot be ordered for pick up online.....you'll just have to check.

My fan switch is in the thermo housing and works well. Go to the JY and pick on up for a couple of bucks.

Thanks guys. The truck has always had a howl to it on the road. I figured it was the trans since the trans had water in it when I got it. Couple of months ago I swapped transmissions out and the howl remained and recently got worse, so I then realized it was the D35 on it's way out. Rides nice and quiet now, smoother too. Yeah, I feel much more confident now with the 8.25, and the Track-loc actually works well, no more single wheel spin in gravel.....nice.

I intended to but I ran out of thread on the other side of the yoke. I could not find one that would work, the yoke portion is too shallow. One thought I had was to use threaded rod coupler and drill it out about 1/4" to take up the shank portion of the bolt......but time was short and I needed to get back on the road for work tomorrow. I took what Oreilly's had to offer and got on with it.

Got my 8.25 installed today. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I used my existing brake cables and brazed on the Liberty ends. Image Not Found Load sensor........bye bye. Image Not Found Image Not Found

I ordered mine as a kit from rockauto. Came with accumulator, compressor, orings, and valve. $191 to my door. The 'kit' is listed right under compressor listing.