Jeep Driver

Why are you going to chop up a perfectly good truck? We are running out of them. Save it for someone else.

Got a test light? I'd start checking circuits.

Yeah Reread my post

Check fuel pressure, sounds like it falls away after start up.

bad thermostat

According to Harland Sharp today, phone call.......... I need to get a single adjustable push rod, install with roller rocker, adjust to 0 lash, remove push rod, measure push rod, add .0040 for valve pre-load.

I don't think your lockers have anything to do with the noise. Bad Ring and Pinion or bad pinion bearing. Even with an open carrier your R&P will spin....yoke will spin......DS will spin.......that fact that your mechanic does not understand that, I would dismiss him and find another one. More than likely who ever installed the lockers failed to set up the R&P properly and now you seeing the end result.

I'll have to contact the machinist to find out.

If you have the original DS, it could be coming apart inside.......thus the vibration and cause of Ujount loss.

Alright........just realized it's the loss of height by a couple of thousandths for having the deck and head resurfaced....... Still, should I be concerned or is there enough tolerance in the lifter?

I'm getting ready to order my Harland Sharp roller rockers. 2.5 and 4.0 rockers are non-adjustable yet- Rocker mounts on head have not been machined, cam is one step above stock, push rods are stock. Anything I need to concern myself with here? Thanks

NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Crankshaft-Sensor/_/R-ECHCSS980_0336127758 or the Standard Motor Products brand is good.

I try to stay away from BWD

Did you test it? or replace it?

I have not seriously looked into it yet, but I may consider an older GM column and go keyless. Just something to think about.

No. I believe the '96 XJ column is a hybrid........ugly thing but you can look to that.

Or you can just MAKE $#!& work. Image Not Found Yea, you could... but I don't trust welding something like that. It would be my luck the weld breaks and then I have no brakes. There is no lateral pressure on that weld. That weld may not be beautiful but I guarantee you it's the strongest part of that assembly/rod.

You may have to splice in the new plug for the new sender..........whatever it takes to make it work........

Or you can just MAKE $#!& work. Image Not Found

https://www.google.com/search?client=ubuntu&channel=fs&q=Temp+sender+for+1990+jeep+cherokee&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=Temp+sender+for+1990+jeep+cherokee&channel=fs&tbm=shop&spd=17549016642091334318

The two prong is the ECU sender which does not apply to you. The single wire sender is the gauge sender........you need one for a '90 with GAUGES.

What year is your gauges? Get the sensor for that year and install it.

Could be CPS

This is the one I'm taking about, however, I find no info on how it ran.

For a fleeting moment..........no, not really. I have searched the web high and low for months, only one other had modified the MPI intake and I could only find one other that has properly built his 2.5. I cannot afford the science so I'm going to rely on luck and what little bit theory I've read about. The only expectation I have of this little 4banger is pure bottom end grunt. I'm hoping to get the most out of the long runners and the mix of fuel and air at the TB and not the valve chamber. Air-flow, for the sake of massive air-flow, is not my objective here. I never follow the path of others and I'm not afraid to stick my neck out.....we'll see where it all leads.