87MJTIM

If it smells like antifreeze, then your heater core is leaking. If it is just water, then there several possibilities, including all the options above. Check the condensation drain opening. From the engine bay, there is a pipe coming out of the firewall below and to the right of the blower motor. Disconnect the short hose (if still attached) and clean out the pipe.

I like yours more. I like the pictures, both front and back. (I don't like being 'free advertising' for any business that isn't paying me. I am not crazy about the front decal for Offroad Outfitter.)

I don't remember if this was posted before, but I will (re)post this link. I saw this on FB. https://www.offroad-outfitter.com/collections/mens/products/mj-blueprint-t-shirt They have hoodies also.

Fuel gauge has worked fine.

Good to know it still worked through the tank/straps. The wiring diagram does not show the purple wire. That was puzzling me.

Winner winner chicken dinner I have a MTS fuel pump. Three wires at the connector. Looks like I need to change the FP.

That is very sound advice. I just want to make sure the black wire isn’t what’s holding everything together.

Additionally, the fuel gauge works fine.

I was looking under my 87 for something unrelated to what I found today. I saw wire on the fuel pump (FP) not connected to anything. The harness has 3 wires: orange and purple connecting to the pump, and a naked black wire (see picture). The 87 wiring diagram shows just 2 wires at the FP: 1 orange and 1 black. The connector diagram shows the C305 as having one wire and the C306 have a flat, blade connector. What is the purple wire? Where does the black wire connect? There is no other connector visible, screw to attach a flat connector.

I spotted another gold MJ today on I-70 through Frederick MD. We waved at each other. He took the Route 15 exit north. Looked like it had the 10 slotted grill - 87 or 88?

Try this.

That is the spare tire holder. It lowers and raises the spare tire under the bed. Yours looks like it has seen better days.

In a JY in Mt Airy MD Red bench seat. Not bad condition. Dirty and wet. Factory bed liner. Tail gate is gone. Short console

any markings on it? put something next to it to give a size reference. It looks like some of the bulbs on the dash backlights from my Honda CRV.

Your symptom are a little similar to mine. I have trouble shifting in 1st at a stop when warm. Shifting out of 1st into 2nd is very notchy. All other gears are "fine," just slightly notchy. Reverse is ALWAYS grinding, unless I shift into 4th then R. I too was wondering if my synchroes were going bad. My searching the 'net lead me to a bad hydro clutch system. See attached https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/ax-15-won't-go-into-1st-when-warm.748660/?post_id=6969186#post-6969186 I have a "pre bled" hydro clutch. It does not have a bleed screw. I tried to follow some videos on "gravity" bleeding the clutch. Remove the whole system from the vehicle. mount the master cyl up high, with the slave cyl down low. Slowly pump the slave push rod to force any air up to the master. This method has not solved the problem. Has anyone ever disconnected the line from the master cyl, drained the hydro fluid and added fresh fluid? The line is held in by a roll pin.

How old is the lower radiator hose? Is it collapsing at high RPMs?

The ASD is one of the relays on the passenger side between the batt and firewall. RE: not starting - what does it do (not do)? Does it crank but not start? When you turn on the key, but not turn to Start, do you hear the fuel pump turn on?

Two of the wire go to the reverse lights. It looks like there are more than 2 wires in the loom, thou.

I'll throw my 2¢ in - have you checked for vacuum leaks? Mine was idling rough - 800 down to 500 rpms - with STFT down to 0. It felt like it would cut out at any second. I had a cracked vacuum line from the MAP to the TB. Fixed this and the idle is better. However, STFT is still low - 30-50.

FYI MJ cap $350 - not mine

Knock sensor is toward the front. Coolant sensor is toward the rear.

RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4216479&cc=1181584&pt=1440&jsn=590

with or without cruise?

I believe the pre-97 hydraulic master/slave kits will work for your (our) era Jeep. The 97+ have a different master cyl that may not fit. You can get one from a JY. But, RockAuto has one for $100 (plus tax and shipping). https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7325656&cc=1180314&pt=10290&jsn=600. Probably a lot less work. Just my 2¢.

To answer your questions: You could keep the original master cyl. However, you will need to match the slave cyl for the bore. It may be easier to purchase a pre-bled master/slave kit. The input tip on that year's AX15 is larger than the tip of a BA10. Yes, you will need to change the pilot bearing/bushing. Search RockAuto for a PB for a 1973 CJ5 with a 304 cu. in. I won't swear to the front axle. I swapped a 93 D30 (non-CAD) and did not change the MC. (I just recently swapped booster and MC to a 95/96 XJ.) I did a BA10 to AX15 swap years ago. I will have to think about the steps again.