RockMJ

Haha, well said! Really love the progress on the MJ man. Really solid work and now I know what an MJ will look like with a rack :D RockMJ

Forgot to ask if you have tried it with the Power mode selected and if it made a difference? I wish I had your problem lol RockMJ

Not to sound totally ridiculous here, but if I bypassed the Power/Comfort switch is there a chance it would solve my issue? I know its a long shot, but I can try it and see how it does I suppose. From experience the Power mode in my past Jeeps had it shift around the higher rpm range, but I still think mine sticking at 4K RPM's for 20 seconds its a bit much. I am going to also clean out and re-grease the TPS connectors in the off chance it is them. I have to find my ohm meter so I can test the TPS further. Just trying to work this issue all out as it could be any number of things. RockMJ

Is your linkage on the throttle body adjusted properly? My XJ had a similar issue when I bought it and a simple adjustment fixed everything. RockMJ

Yeah, I did. I took one out of my buddies 90 XJ and it did the same thing. Forgot to mention that RockMJ

Hey everyone, my 1990 Eliminator with the AW4 has never shifted on its own since I purchased it. I just wanted to know if there is something I am missing before I take the pan off and replace the two solenoids. Here is what I have done thus far: - Cleaned, and dielectric greased harness plugs on firewall - Cleaned, and dielectric greased the TCM harness plug and inline 10 amp fuse - Replaced 10 amp fuse with new fuse - Replaced blown 7.5 amp "Trans" fuse (Power Comfort Module) - Adjusted trans kick down linkage to factory spec Now when I bought the Jeep the PO said he power washed the Jeep and after he cleaned it the transmission would not shift. When I bought it I just unplugged the TCM and have been manually shifting the transmission without issue. The Jeep also (prior to what I listed above) would barely move in "D" like it was starting off in 3rd. Since I did all the cleaning, new fuses, and adjusting the linkage the Jeep now has normal power in "D" and takes off extremely well. Here is where the next problem is. The Jeep refuses to shift out of first and will hold at 4K RPM for 15-20 seconds before the trans is forced into the next gear. This leads me to believe the shift solenoids are bad, but in the very off chance I missed something I was hoping someone could tell me. Thanks a ton, RockMJ

Found it! If anybody needs it, here is the link. Hopefully it works for you, 1990 Jeep FSM RockMJ

Hey everyone, I am going to be rebuilding the 4.0 in my 90 MJ and am in need of the FSM to do it properly. It has been too many years since I have rebuilt one of these motors and I am unsure to the point I need the manual. Does anybody have it in a .pdf format? I don't need the entire FSM but if anyone has it I will gladly take it. Many thanks in advance and if possible, asap! Thanks RockMJ

Yeah, I have seen that ATK supplies the Mopar units. I unfortunately do not have the space to build one myself although it would be a much better option. I have read a good deal over the past week or so regarding the crate 4.7 with a crazy amount of mixed reviews for all companies. I guess it boils down to the warranty terms and how good the company is with honoring them. Thanks for the input, RockMJ

Another option for anyone curious would be Hyline Off-Road's louvered hood vents. I have had these on two of my Jeep's here in Florida and they definitely work. Front vents are facing forward to pull air in and help push the hot air out. On hot 95+ days I saw a 10-15 degree drop in temps with the AC on. Might not be typical for everyone as my cooling system was upgraded to combat the heat down here. Anyways, here are a few pics Pricing wasn't too bad, IIRC around 150$ or so. Hope that helps RockMJ

Hey everyone. So some of you already know, but I have my 90 Eliminator up for sale in the Classifieds section of the forum. If the Jeep does not sell I will move forward with my plan for a cruiser/weekend warrior style build. With that said I have been doing research on crate motors for the MJ and have narrowed it down to an ATK 4.7 base stroker motor. The 4.7 Baja is a great bit of hardware but the extra money and the one year, 12,000 mile warranty turned me off a bit. After reading up on Golen experiences on various other forums, I have taken them out of the equation. Hesco is the obvious winner among the Jeep community but the price tag and hardware being comparable to ATK lost my vote. My main question for everyone is if anyone has experience with ATK Performance Motors or any input to add? If I end up doing the ATK base 4.7 stroker I will opt for the upgraded aluminum roller rocks and ARP hardware. Spec sheet and details on the motor I am considering below. Any input or recommendations are welcomed. And for anyone curious, I am not going for a powerhouse motor but rather a built one that will be reliable. Thanks in advance guys, ATK 4.7 RockMJ

I am so completely confused by what I am seeing... RockMJ

Ive thought about doing something like this to an MJ. I don't think I have seen it done before but overall I am digging it. Its got a proper stance to it, not too low, but just right. Congrats man, what are the future plans? RockMJ

I doubt I will be using them but would be willing to barter for something MJ related if your interested my friend. So a quick update on the 90 Elimiator for everyone. As of next week I will be bringing the MJ up to our new place to start the tear down and overhaul. I will no longer be posting in this thread as I will create a new build thread for that one (I think). Later on folks! RockMJ

Nice progress man, the impact orange is a nice color in the daylight. When I did my first MJ I went with the Mango Tango/Toxic Orange color and it came out awesome! Nice to see you still have her and shes getting an overhaul. RockMJ

This is an awesome picture my friend. I enjoyed reading the back story of the trip as well! Cheers RockMJ

Figure I should share mine as well... RockMJ

When you adjusted the TPS was it a new unit or the same old one? The part is not all that expensive and if everything else checks out replace the sensor, adjust it accordingly, and go from there. Just trying to think without having the Jeep in front of me, when you pulled the IAC motor out did you make sure the gasket was intact when it went back in? If I was in your shoes and after going through everything I would just replace the TPS sensor setup and adjust it and go from there. Good luck RockMJ

Just curious, but how many NOS sets of tailights have you seen around Don? I think yours are the only set ive ever come across in all these years RockMJ

Thanks! You should stop selling the Jeeps you build. :P Though they are fun to build. Haha touche! I seriously think I enjoy building them more than having them finished. I have told friends of mine if I talk of selling the Eliminator to hit me really hard. I should point out I'm not fond of being hit so with that said I plan on keeping the MJ RockMJ

This would be a BA-10 my friend, not an AX-15 RockMJ Edit: Sorry, I did not realize posts were already made. Would help to refresh the browser

Looking at those pictures in both threads I swear I would not know how to sit in the thing comfortably. I cannot handle change as well as I thought I guess haha RockMJ

Bored throttle bodies only make the throttle response sharper and assisting the higher 4,000+ RPM range on stock HO engines. On Renix engines with the tiny throttle body and poor flowing 2686 cylinder head it may see an overall improvement. Stock engines are decently matched for their intended RPM range in total flow from intake to exhaust with exhaust usually being the most restrictive part after the throttle body and cylinder head were upgraded for HO engines. The stock air intake system's restriction is mainly at the inlet to the air box and the fact that it tends to get hotter air from the engine compartment. The stock filter size is big enough. Air intakes that actually relocate the air source to a cooler location such as the cowl with a sufficiently large enough filter are an improvement. Those that just leave the filter in the engine bay with a dinky little heat shield are worthless. Truer words were never spoken! I could not agree more Alexia. If you have ever popped your hood after running the Jeep for a long while you will no doubt feel how incredibly hot the engine bay is. A true CAI relocated the point of induction someplace out of the engine bay to keep the intake temperatures down. Most cars and even some SUV/Trucks have kits to relocate the filter down to the inner wheel well behind the front bumper for this exact reason. There are obvious risks with doing so on a Jeep or a vehicle that seems extreme weather but to each their own. You will notice an improved throttle response and little to no improvements in mpg's or HP/TQ gains. For what it is worth I still run them knowing what it is they do and don't do. Like Alexia said, if you want to make it a true "cold-air" induction system you should focus on relocating the inlet pipe someplace out of the engine bay. Good luck! RockMJ

Did you double check to make sure you have the correct amount of turns from lock to center? Thoroughly burp the system and check to make sure your pitman and steering are attached at at dead center and go from there. You mentioned a loss in turning radius? This does not seem correct, at all. When I did my box swap I had the exact same amount of turning side to side as before, it just turned the 35's much easier based on the gearing of the box. Drop the draglink off the pitman arm and make sure your box is centered first as I have a feeling it is probably off from you saying a loss in turning radius. Good luck RockMJ

For the MJ you really want to use a full-length AAL as it will be best suited for the MJ's leaf pack. Some guys will take the main leaf or two from the XJ pack and combine them with the MJ pack but for the hassle you could easily pick up a spring pack set for the height you want. RockMJ