DirtyComanche

Yeah, it's from the chrysler (later) FSM. No scanner, sorry.

Yup. And you'll need a longer brake line/shocks to make everything work. You might want to have shock mounts welded to the axle too, as the stock ones are on the spring plate (plate that holds the spring pack to the spring perch) and are really useless after you go SOA. Pretty straight-foreward. Unless I'm forgetting things. (It's been a long time since my truck was stock). There's the brake porportioning valve to deal with too. It's umm, annoying.

Just use the D44. Disk brakes are nice, but not really a huge deal.

I don't think he's asking if the 86 tranny will bolt up (it won't). He's asking if the 2wd AW4 can be converted to 4wd. The answer is yes, but it's a total rebuild to do it. Better to find a 4wd AW4.

Drive shafts are within 1/2". Normally it will be fine. Or better as the Ax-15 is the longer one of them, I think. Tranny mount differs. Crossmember needs to be moved. And the pilot bearing is different.

.188 at least. I'd just go .250. It's not going to cost much, you could get all you need as scrap.

Up to $650. $200 is a 'good' price. You can pick them up for $100.

Replicating the stock style of ear is the best method. I'd take some heavy channel and weld it to the end of the tube to create the ears. However, I don't intend to run that type of bracket on the axle. Like these: Image Not Found

YJs don't have control arms. They're leaf spring bushings....

Well, that was the purpose of the thread. Unfortunatly I got lazy and never bothered to finish it, and Pete doesn't believe in FAQs anyways.

Just going to stick with a radius arm setup in the front. They're proven and any moron can make them (suits me). The axle end will be the typical rubber LCA bushings for the uppers/lowers, or yj ones, depending on fit. The bushing where the upper connects to the lower will be another LCA/YJ one, with a 1" stud to allow adjustment. Frame ends will be curry johnny joints, again with 1" studs. Arm material will be 2x2x.250 HSS. I will have to build a new crossmember/skid for them to attach to. I also think I will be needing a YJ tranny so my tcase actually will clear where I want to put the mounts. And the rear will just be leafs for now, as I'd like to get it working again. This is all providing that the rusty's crap is sold (as it appears).

Well, as an update, looks like I'm going to be pretty much starting over. The rusty's LAs seem to be sold. Hell, maybe I should just leaf the front of it.

Np231 in the tcase. You've got a 4.0 and an 88 5spd, it's a BA10/5 peugeot. They like to explode. What ya want to swap in is an AX-15. There's a million posts on how to do it. :cheers:

I hate to blow my own horn, but you might read this thread: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... hlight=faq It just covers the basics, and has my opinons thrown in it... I think.

I'm thinking I should read that book at some point. See how many things I've done 'wrong'.

Yeah, with SOA. Guess I should have clarified.

Nope, they'd been off about a month before to do a gear setup. Only thing I can say is I'm glad I wasn't trying to change a shaft when I discovered they were that tight. You shouldn't need impact tools to get them off... But if they're seized or overtorqued, have fun.

You're looking at about $120 a set for spacers, width being .75", 1", 1.25", 1.5". Or you can go the custom route for a little more and get different widths, don't know why you'd want to... I wouldn't use them unless ya got 'em cheap. It's way easier to get cheap rims that fit a jeep. I sold my AR-767s (5) for $200, but I imagine they'd have only been worth $100 at most in the states.

Well, when I broke the extensions I was using a breaker bar with 60" of square tube slipped over it for more leverage. *Snap*

Yes, and I'm still looking into it. For fixed length stock replacement control arms, you could get by with 2" sch40. Personally I think I'd use sch80... But, anything longer and you might as well use DOM, based on actual cost and the convenience of being able to thread the end for a joint. That doesn't mean I'm saying it won't work though. I've now seen enough examples to feel confident with pipe. Only thing is, use a larger dia. than would normally be used... The main reason I actually wanted to use pipe was so I could bend the arms for clearance. However, I can propbably make up to a 15* bend in DOM with a pipe bender without kinking it. That's all I need. (Tube benders are hard to come by, can't afford one yet.) If you're interested in the actual numbers on pipe (A-53), I can tell you that it is almost exactly half a strong as DOM if you were to use the same size and wall section. It is the SAME(give or take 5%) strength as HERW, CERW, ERW tubing. Contrary to popular belief, it is rated for structeral applications and is made to as high of standard as any other steel rated for structeral applications. That is, if you buy the right type (A-53, and a couple others that are hard to get, but stronger). At this point though, I'm looking to use square HSS. 2x2x.25, weld a deep azz 1" nut to the end, and you can run a 1" stud into it easy. I've seen this setup work on a rig that is heavier than mine, has more power, and is wheeled harder.

One behind the centre cap as in the spindle nut? Have fun with it. I broke two 1/2" extensions trying to get it out the way I normally would. Finially I said f' it and bought an electric impact wrench. A good one...

Go steal a main leaf from a dakota pack or such, cut the eyes off, and add it to your packs under the main leaf, should be level. Spring rate will be slightly stiffer, but that's a good thing in this case...

They might crack. The stock ones are designed to flex... But hey, just keep an eye on them.

You can go higher than that. Mine are parallel with that fold in the fender, and the bolts that hold them on are moved up so I could trim even more out. And if you go to a larger tire you'll want to cut it closer to your door at the bottom too. I had some accidental siping going on with mine before I gt heavy with them. And fold that pinch seam! Just hit it with a nice sledge a bunch. I cut reliefs in mien first to make it easier, from a longevity stance that might not be best.

Heat em till they glow, put a 12 point combination wrench over them, hit the wrench with a sledge hammer. If you're using quality tools that actually fit right, you won't round it. Wailing on the wrench with a sledge gives it a nice shock and tends to break things free. The heat helps. Even a propane torch can do a decent job, but propane/oxy or acetylene/oxy does a better job, and if nothing else soaking a 70** rod in water and hitting it with 140+ amps will really get it glowing fast.