DirtyComanche

Ours are offset or centred? Hmm, I could go check. I really don't need a longer leaf, just the centre pin hole back a bit. I'm hoping I can get a little better departure angle. It kicked my @$$ a couple times.

That rust bucket has potential. Here's what ya should do: Swap the drivetran into your other 'manche. Ditch the bed and doors off the rust bucket. Hack frame off just behind cab. Run a hybrid ford/chevy HPD60 front, and a D70 rear. Narrow the front down a hair, maybe 6" off each side. Of course, throw a 350/sm465/np203/np205 drivetran into it. 1/4 elliptical the rear. Leaf the front. Full exo and 42" tires. Good to go. And nobody loses.

I'll need only the main leaf and the one below it maybe, not even. How arched it is might matter. I was jsut wondering if anybody knew off hand of one. It's that or I'll go to the junkyard armed with a tape measure and a heck of a lot of time. I decided that I might as well get a little more wheelbase since I FUBARed my driveshaft anyways, and I'm swapping rears, and I don't mind cutting my flatbed apart again...

I need a leaf spring with the centre pin hole about 3-4" farther back than the stock 'manche ones, and about the same length. Anybody got ideas?

Did he put spacers on the rear or anything? Definatly a deal though.

YJ/TJ owners could also never get them stock. Thus they are afraid of them. I forgot you couldn't get a 5spd with one. Anyways, there's one in my XJ. They're plenty reliable.

Yeah, MJs are taller... I think. Anyways, I just had to compare it to something, I never realized cherokees were so low from the factory.

:roll: Okay, thanks wildman, that's good enough. I only needed front to verify that my XJ is definatly not stock. I didn't trust the XJ'ers because they are flaky. Looks like it's been lifted 1.5"~ in the front, and 3.5"~ in the back.

I need to know the distance from the centre of the hub to the bottom of the fender flare on a stock MJ at normal ride height. I think these XJ guys are morons.

If you're going to take the time/money to make MOGs works, at least build a better sunspension setup. I doubt it would be hard to 4-link a 'manche rear, or run a 1-link if you want it to be really easy. To mount coils or 1/4 elliptical leaves, you'd probably have to cut a bunch of stuff. That's a good thing.

Uh, I've got a 61amp... No, it doesn't work worth $#!&.

Mine wrapped like a mother when it was stock. Well, that was when I actually got enough traction for it to wrap. Gotta love being able to leave rubber through 5 gears.

It's pretty random what they got. But, AFIK, 160amp alternators were NOT avaliable stock. However, you can use one. If I could get my hands on one cheap, I sure as hell would.

Guiness? Hmm, sounds fair. :cheers:

Booooooooya! Thanks.

They're not centred stock, if you narrow them they will be. Unless they cut more off the narrow side. These would be 404s, that is? Of, if you're swapping in portals, you might as well link the front and rear.

Yeah, if you could get it a little clearer it'd be sweet. Thanks.

If you want to try: (This order, I guess... Same size as it is now) Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Yes, the crossmember must go back to the rear mounting location. Snag the mount when you get the tranny...

They'll fit, just you'll need to use a wheel with a low BS (3.5" or less) if you want to be able to turn.

No, no. Just picture it in your mind. It's exactly like if it had the 89 fenders on it, minus the weight reduction holes. Okay, fine, sometime maybe I'll change my avatar. How about I piss you all off and change it to a pic of my (stock) XJ?

Get a 4wd tranny (AX-15) with a NP231 or NP242 already bolted to it. It's next to impossible to convert a 2wd tranny to 4wd. The bellhousing is the same. Output shaft is different, but you're going to get a 4wd one with a tcase bolted to it already, so it won't matter. The pilot bearing is weird; don't remember which one it is you're supposed to use. Then you've just got to get your D/S cut down to the right length after you've got the tranny/tcase in.

No, there's that change, then there's another... At least there was with mine. They mount differently. The 89 style was a hell of a lot easier to remove, as the 86 required taking the bolts out from inside the fender.

I think you're going to have to go junkyard hunting for that.

The fenders/header panel actually aren't the same. But can easily be modified to work. I've got 86 fenders on my 89.