DirtyComanche

My winch is under the rad. I think the box4rocks is the bang for the buck NP231 to whatever doubler. The madrooster one is expensive and not as good. Or it is the other way around? Either way it's not a bad idea. You can put the 241 planetaries in the first case if you have strength issues. I'd not run a 231 as the second tcase. But a 241 might survive. Or a D300 would be better.

I'd wonder how much wound up being in it. I guess it would be as easy as narrowing an axle other than the outer stubs would probably have to be splined 'differently' which ultimately would probably lead to all new shafts. That's assuming that mogs don't use a closed knuckle CV or anything like that - I'll admit I know little about them. That still leaves the brakes/bolt pattern too. Although, one can run what's there. But I'm not into 20" rims and 4-wheel drum brakes. It does make me think though. Unfortunatly the Canadian military won't be surplussing mogs or their parts anytime soon. Or maybe that's for the better that they don't.

Mmm... Measure the ones you've got, then go to a parts store and demand the monroe parts cataloge. Get ones that are 1-2" longer with the same end style. If they won't give you the cataloge, swear at them then look for it with google.

Yeah, and I've heard a welded D35 is right up there with a D70. Jeepspeed guys run D30s because they have to. They truss them or they'll be smiling in no time. Only the highly modified classes allow any other axle type - a bunch of them swap in ford TTB or a custom IFS. A truss in a front application matters if you're really hammering weight on it (dropping vehicles weight on it, ask Pat about his driving style for example). It doesn't do anything for the patheticness of the R&P, unitized hubs, axleshafts, ball-joints, knuckle design, gear carrier, etc. Yes, some of these things you can upgrade, others you can't. Some of them when they fail leave you really screwed. I know people that have had failures on 32s. Not fatique failures - plain old 'she broke' failures. That said I know of a lot of people who run 37s, 38s and even 39s on them. I think they don't know how to drive.

If you want my opinon, I think it's hack. But that's me.

The wrangler yoke is the same length. But, it has more offset in the yoke ears so the joint can travel farther. Ask BrettM if you want a picture...

Unless you run a rubicon front (total waste of money) you can't keep the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. Waggy D44s are common.

I dunno that there's a good proggy to do that, but I'd not be too worried. If you actually want lots of feedback or exo ideas, I'd talk to the 'yota guys. I know their brains have been warped by trying to break the 100HP envelope with their 22Rs, but they still know how to build a cage. Sometimes. But yeah, the trucks are similarily shaped and dimensioned.

Good. Just about lost some of my dinner.

Mogs aren't the inital price thing... They get you later. Pinion conversion, brakes, narrowing or dealing with clearance issues...

Do you want to run doors? You can't with his cage. To design it to be as strong as that and still have working doors gets a bit trickier.

Betcha I could rip those mirrors off in about 2 minutes...

Most of the height numbers came from Summit Racing, and for the price, I listed for Summit and 4 Wheel Parts. The BFG number matches from both Summit and BFG. The 35 apparently measures 34.8. Betcha that's what BFG says they are. I should throw the tape on the 100% one and see what it is. But I doubt it's 34.8".

You gotta run locks and a wide rim for them to look alright.

You'll want some sort of triangulation in the structure behind the cab or your exo will be a flexo. Which ain't good for a roll-over.

I like that wheel better than the 'upgraded' one.

Where'd you get the chart info? I really doubt 33" BFGs measure 32.8". My 35s measure like 33" when they're aired up to about 30LBS. I'll admit they are at about 40%. I put them beside the 37" MTRs and just started laughing at how small the BFGs are. Oh, I'm not into the BFGs just because of the sidewalls. I've got a couple plugs. A friend ripped 5 in 2 days...

Short answer is it's not. The 9" is a really killer strong gearset with plenty of options. But, with both the HP or LP D44 the weakness is the outer stub shafts as they have to neck down to accomodate the hubs (they're like, 19 spline..). EDIT: This is with a built D44. IE, my setup with a spool/chromos/superiors and drive flanges would qualify. You'd be running these same stubs with the 9" setup with half ton outers; so again they'd be the weak link. I'd get a junkyard HPD44, or even a LP one (hey I did that!) or spend the dough now and get the 1-ton outers. Oh, the 1-ton stuff, would it be kingpin?

It's all about terrain. Where I am, keeping it narrow helps. Or you wind up tree humping.

My sportruck has a tach. Well, full gauges. And PS, tilt, carpet, and a bunch of other stuff that I guess might be options...

Looks like it won't matter anyways... Wish I had seen the ad earlier. :headpop:

Yeah, the KJ is better then the compass... Gawd.

He means 3.4. The 4.3 is a cut down SBC and does not share the same bellhousing pattern, or really anything in common with the 2.8 or 3.4. The 2.8 and 3.4 are very similar. Unfortunatly the 3.4 is rather hard to find, seeing as they seemed to only come in camaros and firechickens. But yeah, it is a better engine.

Yeah, it's gross, as long as it's far enough below freezing it is fine, but the stuff they use on the roads (it's not normal salt, it is worse) will melt till about -15ish, so all this wet slushy stuff gets kicked up into the hole and soaks the carpet... Then the heater evapourates some of it. Then it freezes over night. Then I'm scraping the inside of the windshield in the morning... Moral of the sotry - fix hole in heep before the onset of winter.

Turns out it was just some ice buildup. I should fix the escape hatch in the floor, then everything wouldn't get so wet.