DirtyComanche

Most of the height numbers came from Summit Racing, and for the price, I listed for Summit and 4 Wheel Parts. The BFG number matches from both Summit and BFG. The 35 apparently measures 34.8. Betcha that's what BFG says they are. I should throw the tape on the 100% one and see what it is. But I doubt it's 34.8".

You gotta run locks and a wide rim for them to look alright.

You'll want some sort of triangulation in the structure behind the cab or your exo will be a flexo. Which ain't good for a roll-over.

I like that wheel better than the 'upgraded' one.

Where'd you get the chart info? I really doubt 33" BFGs measure 32.8". My 35s measure like 33" when they're aired up to about 30LBS. I'll admit they are at about 40%. I put them beside the 37" MTRs and just started laughing at how small the BFGs are. Oh, I'm not into the BFGs just because of the sidewalls. I've got a couple plugs. A friend ripped 5 in 2 days...

Short answer is it's not. The 9" is a really killer strong gearset with plenty of options. But, with both the HP or LP D44 the weakness is the outer stub shafts as they have to neck down to accomodate the hubs (they're like, 19 spline..). EDIT: This is with a built D44. IE, my setup with a spool/chromos/superiors and drive flanges would qualify. You'd be running these same stubs with the 9" setup with half ton outers; so again they'd be the weak link. I'd get a junkyard HPD44, or even a LP one (hey I did that!) or spend the dough now and get the 1-ton outers. Oh, the 1-ton stuff, would it be kingpin?

It's all about terrain. Where I am, keeping it narrow helps. Or you wind up tree humping.

My sportruck has a tach. Well, full gauges. And PS, tilt, carpet, and a bunch of other stuff that I guess might be options...

Looks like it won't matter anyways... Wish I had seen the ad earlier. :headpop:

Yeah, the KJ is better then the compass... Gawd.

He means 3.4. The 4.3 is a cut down SBC and does not share the same bellhousing pattern, or really anything in common with the 2.8 or 3.4. The 2.8 and 3.4 are very similar. Unfortunatly the 3.4 is rather hard to find, seeing as they seemed to only come in camaros and firechickens. But yeah, it is a better engine.

Yeah, it's gross, as long as it's far enough below freezing it is fine, but the stuff they use on the roads (it's not normal salt, it is worse) will melt till about -15ish, so all this wet slushy stuff gets kicked up into the hole and soaks the carpet... Then the heater evapourates some of it. Then it freezes over night. Then I'm scraping the inside of the windshield in the morning... Moral of the sotry - fix hole in heep before the onset of winter.

Turns out it was just some ice buildup. I should fix the escape hatch in the floor, then everything wouldn't get so wet.

The old carbed AMC 258s... And the newer ones... Is the head the same pattern of intake/exhaust ports as the renix 4.0? I know the HO stuff is different. Oh, if you're wondering, I'm gonna buy an offenhauser intake ment for a 258 out of a IH scout. Which is the same as the AMC 258. That way I can just throw an impco 425 (cfm mixer) on it and make the f;ing thing run on propane. The hood is going to need a hole. A big hole.

There's actually a really mint 87 SWB with the 2.1 in it around here. Or maybe it was an 86 LWB? I don't remember. But it's all factory, sorta a burnt orange colour and no vynal stripes/decals. Not a spot of rust. Some old guy that is the orig. owner has it. Only drives it in the summer.

If they sell it as exactly equipped there, it would be very neat. Other than it'd be a ford. And they'll ghey-ify it, probably add IFS/IRS and turn the snorkel into a peice of plastic for looks, and use a gas engine.

It would survive in trail use only. He saved by narrowing only one side of the axle... Ditch that 'cage' though. And a front shaft could be run with a bunch of cutting.

They were only very early. Stopped in 86? Maybe 87. But yeah, underpowered, weird, hard to find parts, no aftermarket... I'd probably drive one.

That's waht I'm thinking.... And -44 and -44 are the same! The scales converge there.

It's been -40 here. That battery was fine through that. Besides, it worked in the afternoon, and it's no warmer now... I dunno, it was really weird.

So, went out to warm up the DD today... Yes, the 89~ XJ... It's maybe a couple (or 10) degrees below zero, nothing new or amazing... Put the key in, turn the ignition to run, electrical comes on... then goes off. Nothing, nadda. Turn to start, nothing, nadda... Turn the key back and forth, check some fuses, then go and get a ride into town (had to be at school). Get back home and figure I had better figure out what's up. Throw the key in and turn it to run, nothing. Turn it to start and realize that my gauges jump slightly, and the temperature gauge climbs like it would normally with the key in the start position. Wiggle the key a bit, try again, gauges jump the same way... Check the fuses, the battery, nothing is wrong? Go put the key back in and turn it to run, go to check the fuses again... And *whirr* the blower comes on, then the stereo beeps to life... Turn the key to start, it cranks and starts. So, long story short what the hell is wrong? I used to this thing being quirky, but it never did this before...

Try EVERYTHING! All of the heater/blower settings, the windows, locks, lights, etc. Electrical is a major PITA if there's anything wrong - especially if the PO did something to it. Otherwise if it's a 4.0/AW4 just check the fluids and make sure there's no majorly bad noises and don't worry too much.

Do it and you'll never look back. I know a lot of people out here with detached shops, and they all figure it was the best money they ever spent!

I hate it. I think it's all junk. They use good material (sorta) and have one hell of a fancy lazer cutter and brake - doesn't mean they have a clue what they're doing. They cheap out on things like joints, can't figure out how to prep metal for MIG welding, and tend to make massive engineering mistakes (or maybe not mistakes, I think they just don't care). However, there's lots of people running their stuff that will swear by it. I've actually had people tell me that I was flat out wrong about them/their parts and that I slam them because 'I've never actually run their stuff' - which I chuckle about. Spend a few more bucks, get somebody with a better rep.

Those TJ coils will give about 3" lift. Well, they should! I'd avoid rusty's fixed arm kit. Well, I'd avoid all of their stuff.