DirtyComanche

Run a sold shaft through a CAD axle and you get a hella strong UCA mount. Buuuuuuuut... PITA to weld that hting up right.

Just truss it... The right way.

I have duals. They were in the front before. Lots of clearance problems.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... hlight=faq

Is that a new pump that hydro kit comes with? How long is that ram?

I think lots of people like them. They work just like their bigger versions. But smaller. And if that doesn't blow you out of the water, I don't know what will. Remember, anything from Interco won't be round. Even if it is smaller.

That's 'cause a reg cab f-150 only tracks about 65" in the front.

Use the AMC20 rear axle. It is miles (or kilometers, since we're measuring strength with distance for some reason) stronger than the horrible horrible D35. The gearing in the AMC20 (likely 4.10) will be better with the 4.0 than the stock offering of 3.55. Sell the D35 to some smuck that blew theirs up.

Yeah... Right... Silly 2.5 guys. And somebody took mah rig's name! Although, it's not in my sig anymore, so no foul.

Grand Wagoneer D44 fronts are 61.5" WMS-WMS, which is .5" wider than the stock turdy. But yeah, it's not going to bolt in... Also, EB fronts are 58" wide (again, D44). And Toy fronts are something like 59-60" wide (wrong side pumpkin).

Rattle can jobs are easy enough. Just time consuming. Well, for the prep that is, and only the prep. If you prep yourself you can have maacrap do it fairly cheap. But their end result isn't really that much better than rattle canning if you know what you're doing. If I was ever to do it again and wanted it to look nice there'd be two things I'd consider: 1. SPRAY the entire truck with aircraft stripper on a cold day. 2. Spend a few bucks to rent a sandblasting booth for a while. After seeing how much better the stripper works when sprayed as opposed to brushed - I'd probably go that route.

That wasn't too bad as far as shorthand goes. Obviously Eagle dun use text messaging.

8oz of BBs will balance up to about a 34" tire no problem... That's per tire. But I'd jsut phone summit racing. Or go to their online store. They sell the cheap ones and have free shipping in the states. At least, I think they do.

Hmm. I have the AR version on mine right now. Or maybe they're the crager version? Anywho, it's a soft 8 (circular holes) but they're chrome, black, rust and dents. If you're into asthetics I doubt it's what your looking for.

Customs probably thinks it's a bomb.

Hmm, email money transfer? The only reason I haven't hit you up for any is because I wasn't entirely sure the best way to pay you for them.

Sadly that doesn't work here. Unless you own a farm. The last time I checked I didn't.

Actually, lots of rock. Snow is just something to do in the winter, most guys are rebuilding at that time - the real snow guys have rigs built ONLY to run snow. But, now we've finially found good hardcore rock locally - so it'll be a lot more punishing than before. It used to just be limited body damage and anything on the underbelly would get hurt. Now it we should be putting dents in the roof without much trouble. And yeah, there's trees to. And they bite. And the guys who think exo's get bent or destoryed... Well, they can - if they're built wrong. An interior cage offers only a small protected area with minimal mounting points (okay, you can squeeze a few in there, but I don't have any space as it is). The Exo spreads the load over the entire body and can make the difference between being able to drive away after a roll or having to cut it into itty bitty peices and carry it out. Everyone who thinks I should X the roof is right, and I looked at it again and it won't be a bending nightmare - so I will. And about it being ugly. Well. I guess that's a matter of taste. Oh, and the other battery box will probably just be a place to store $#!&. Always need storage space. Lastly, here's Ern's rig a fair while before he got VI'd. He drove it in WORSE shape than this for maybe 4-6 months. He'd have been fine other than his poor run of luck. Image Not Found I should see if I've got pictures of any of the highly modified (other than body damage) guys that still street their stuff. Exo-toy. He's almsot back-halfed. But that's his DD. Image Not Found

It's a little more than an inch. If you use metric numbers you could be accurate, but, it's about 42" (MJ) vs 43.5" (XJ).

Well... I don't have a tow-rig. But, it'll still be plated until the big ol' popo and their evil VIs catch up to me. Then I'll get the tow rig and be done with that worry. As it is it is not 'street legal' and could not be certifited as such - unless I start forking out major cash to get somebody to 'approve' the modifications. As long as I keep the wheels covered I'd actually be no worse than I am right now, I'd just need some removable flares. There's some vehicles that I know that are still plated despite being back-halfed, tubed framed, exo'd, running 49s, etc. It's mostly about not getting caught, and partly about smooth talking when you are. It's amazing what they'll let slip as long as you don't do anything too stupid. If I can find a picture of Ern's toy you'll understand what I mean (he finially got VI'd when his passenger door fell off at a stop light in front of a cop). But, if I pass you on the highway I'll be sure to wave!

Thought about this more. Might as well do things in this order: -Build new intake manifold (from scratch) -Run propane crap, at least get it mocked up -Remove all unneeded wiring -Hack front sheetmetal -Bend up rock rails and front tubing. Route coolant through rock rails, rear mount that rad over top of the propane tank. -Bend up rest of tube. Then I get to narrow the front too.

The changes they made to the hood was to move the latches to the outside and use a dual latch setup. The header panel can be modified to work, IIRC, it's just the useless fiberglass mounts that are different I think. I'm not sure, I have 86 fenders and a 2.5L (of unknown year) header panel on mine and it all worked after I drilled a few holes.

Of the box! Of course not! Umm, yeah, it's checked. It works about 95% of the time, then I'll have a whole slew of having to log in before each post...

Which still beats towing it around all day because your starter fried with an auto. We had that problem with a GW. The starter smoked pretty good and refused to turn over, and it was an auto. I wound up having to play bumper cars with him to get him back to the road. His whole back end was smashed in by the time we had it loaded on the trailor. (It was a free beater - so it didn't matter)

My 86 had the same interior as that.