DirtyComanche

The JD2 is probably the most common bender because of its price. Like any bender (other than pipe benders) the dies will be expensive. I think the JD2 dies are more than the bender... It is a fully manual bender - so I hope you're patient and have strong arms. Theres a homebuilt bender on pirate. It uses the same dies as the JD2 - but is a lot nicer because it is hydraulic (jack style - but you canb make it hook up to a power pack if you want to spend money). The plans cost $20 or something. A lot of the guys I know use chop saws for notching. It works pretty well actually. But, there's notchers that hook up to a drill that can be had for about $80. The only problem is some of them use a funny thread for the hole saw - so you have to buy THEIR hole saws. Which gets expensive.

Yeah... Only because it took my so long.

Every overheating problem I've ever had with 4.0 MJs/XJs is because either I blew the lower rad hose off (umm, long story...) or the plastic bottle decided to go bang. The best one was when I was 1 hour from home and the plastic bottle ruptured... Just a tiny crack, but it wasn't holding pressure and I was losing coolant. The hot coolant sprayed on my alternator - killed it. So I drove to a gas station, let it cool off and bought lots of coolant. Then I limped it back home driving a ways and stopping to add coolant and let it cool off (all the time the battery running down) until I made it back... It was misfiring like hell coming down the last hill to my house. I shut it off in the driveway and tried to start it again and the battery was so dead it couldn't even throw the starter solenoid completely...

I left it. I was going to get a E350 master but I haven't had time to deal with it (it's $100 w/core new, so I have to roadtrip to the pick'n'pull - and the rear driveshaft is what stops it from being street friendly anyways). They work - offroad use only. Actually, I drove it on the street too... Between downshifting and hitting the brake pedal twice I can get it stopped! Without having the massive D44 pistons up front it might work alright with the stock master cyl. Put the porportioning valve to full open and give it a try perhaps? If not, a ZJ master SHOULD work better. And I think some years can be used as a bolt in. I've been VERY happy with this axle thus far. We'll see in spring though, when the snow leaves the higher ground... If something's gonna give, I'll find it soon enough. Or I'll blow something else up first.

It's 58.5" vs uh, 59~. Or maybe 59.5"... I got a set of 1" spacers for when toyota fags do a SAS and threw them on it and it's the same width as my front now (61.5"). Tires still rub the frame...

Eagle will know... But, if there is a difference all of the offending hardware can be swapped.

T4s and T5s suck. But, yeah, one with the correct bellhousing/input/output will replace an AX-4 or AX-5 - AFAIK. And an AX-15 can replace the BA10/5 - there's some tricks to it.

Hazard country is in Nova Scotia?

With a 2.5L on the street.

If you get some factory LCA shims you could probably get away without new LCAs. I don't know the lengths at hand, but, you probably have 2 (per side) shims stock and IIRC they're .188 and you can realistically go to 5... For a hair over 1/2" adjustment... But I'm sure there's people that will point out that's the 'wrong' way to fix it.

They fixed the spelling of comanche on that page because of me... Umm, I'd not bother. They're heavy... Embrace the carnage... Besides, stock fenders kinda bend and pop back half the time.

Brake lines...

Sorta. All the front clip and the front doors are the same as XJ parts. Along with the drivetran for the most part. And most of the interior perices are the same as an XJ (other than the back area of the cab). Or you can mod XJ stuff to work. Where you'll run into trouble is if the bed is messed (I just made a flatbed instead...) or without a tailigate. The rear driveshaft and the gas tank and parking brake assembly is MJ specific. So are the rear axles (but, you can fix that with a welder if you need to swap something else in...). I would NOT hesitate to buy one on the reasoning of parts being rare.

I'd buy coils... I know how to make it work JY style, but it'll suck. Coils are cheap.

That ain't his; he's never owned anything that nice :brows: :roll: . But that's a stock longbed frame under there.

I put a block of wood under one side of it so it is on an angle like / or \ then put it under the knuckle and jack away... It pushes it over as well as lifting then.

A bottle jack, a high-lift, an anchor point, 20 feet of chain, 6lb sledge... Actually, normally it just takes a bottle jack and a 2-3lb sledge. Use the jack to push the axle forewards or backwards as needed, hit the arm with the sledge to get it into the pocket. Once it is close, insert the bolt with the sledge - it'll self centre. But you didn't hear that method from me.

Hell if I know. I thought sticks always had higher gears in the diff because the auto tranny had a higher first gear... At least, that's the reasoning I use. It has been proven that chrysler thinks different than me.

Gary's Jeep Wrecking in Surrey/Lower mainland somewhere. Probably listed as Vancouver. Don't know if they have a website...

Selec-trac MJs are ultra rare - I think. The 228 is apparently an 'alright' case too, providing you don't run into vacuum issues. It has a fixed yoke on the rear as well. They threw them in the FSJs behind 360s - so they gotta be reasonably strong. I'm not sure on how they work - I've never had one apart. You have CV shafts in your D30. They're bad. Like to go pop and snap. How round is the diff cover? Egg shapped or perfectly round? If it is perfectly round, you scored an AMC20 - which are about as strong as a D44. If it's an egg shape, it's the D35 POS. And I'll say you have 4.10s. But I'm not sure. And you gotta upload pics to say photobucket, then link 'em. Unless we have a pic uploader I don't know about.

Almost all (all later ones with 29 spline) 4.0/auto cherokees had 3.55s. If you want 4.0s you'll need to find a 2.5/auto.

Congrats. Only 4 more years and you can convert it to run on alcohol.

The 8.8 is only offset 2-3". And it's the right way (away from the gas tank). It would never be an issue in a vehicle as long as a MJ. A YJ/TJ is a different matter.

Well... What size tire do you plan? The 31 spline 8.8 (exploders) is really quite strong. I've seen 36s and 37s on them with no problems with failures - that is under lighter rigs (not fullsizes). As a bonus, if you find a 96+ one you will get some nice disk brakes. You will probably want 1" spacers for each side though. Although, it is only an inch narrower than an 8.25. An 29 spline 8.25 will work well with up to about 34 or 35" tires. Disk brakes can be done using junkyard parts (crown vics). They are limited to 4.56 gears being the lowest. There also isn't much aftermarket for them. But they don't hang as low as a 8.8 - which has a bloody huge centre section. Just make SURE you get a 29 spline version. The 27 is only as strong as a D35.

Good choice... And you're almost legal on my side of the border.