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Everything posted by DirtyComanche
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Yeah... But umm, you might need to buy new unitized hubs. I don't think it is as simple as re-drilling it.
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If it's a 60 front, and it's reasonably intact, pick it up. The ball-joint unitized hub ones kinda annoying because of the bolt pattern. But apparently it can be fixed. They're starting to get popular because they are stronger than a standard full-floating hub design in many ways. The unitized hubs on them are worth a bundle if they're good. Oh, and as for moving them... Levering, dragging, wiggling... Or you take the damn thing apart as much as you can.
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Oh yeah, get to work on this so I can copy all your ideas.
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Turning a longbed into a shortbed...no BOBS
DirtyComanche replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
SWB Image Not Found LWB Image Not Found Not great. But they're the same frame at the cab, and hence can be cut off and swapped. You'll have to drill a lot of welds. -
Turning a longbed into a shortbed...no BOBS
DirtyComanche replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
How about I jsut post them here? They're on my photobucket... I jsut have to find them. -
Turning a longbed into a shortbed...no BOBS
DirtyComanche replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Oh, I've got the frame diagrams if you want to compare. -
Turning a longbed into a shortbed...no BOBS
DirtyComanche replied to JeepcoMJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
The frame portion is way different. You couldn't swap them without majoy mods. If you had a good quality donor you could swap frames. Lots of work, but it looks possible based on the tech diagrams and my own looking at them. Or you could buck off the frame you have at the cab and stich in a new one (from scratch) to make erverything line up. Lots of work again. Probably wouldn't come out better than a stock frame unless there was something you specifically wanted to do (4-link rear, dually conversion, or something else funny). -
Yeah, tappet/lifter... But the roller ones are for the V8s. They've only got flat hydraulics for the 4.0 and 2.5. It's unfortunate, a roller cam/lifters would actually be a worthwhile upgrade on these motors. Less friction, better cam profiles, no more flat cams.
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Roller rockers yes, roller lifters no. I knew they sold roller rockers (they're a huge ripoff, about $900 for a set, and that'll give you maybe 2HP). But somebody said they had roller lifters too. But those are for the V8s. Which makes sense since they had them stock. They have the aluminum 4.0/4.2 head in there! I can't even imagine what they want!
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I'm pretty sure some of the F-350s could have a D50 front. However, they're easy to identify. It says 50F on the housing's rib. However, D50s are VERY rare. I figured they are undesirable axles so I should be able to get a couple for a cheap price, but no such luck. And the rear axles are probably sterling 10.25s regardless of 250 or 350. They're not exactly great. Heavy duty yes. Worth maybe $200 in good shape. They have a few issues and stupid flaws.
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I doubt it's in there. Apparently mopar used to make roller lifters for a 4.0L. Which made no sense because there's no roller cams for them. It was more curiosity than anything. Because it sounds like BS to me.
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I was thinking the same thing...
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Gonna move the gas tank?
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The boosters are crap. If you've got a soft pedal and can't find anything else obviously the matter, the booster is probably piling up.
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Shave the 14B and it'll be great.
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There's enough restriction in the stock downpipe to provide for low-end exhaust scavenging. As long as it's got that crushed part in it to clear the D/S. Besides, do a couple more intake side mods and it won't matter if the exhaust flows way gooder.
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Smart guy with a good gimmick. Or he's just REALLY pissed off.
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Er, I need the performance one.
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Can I get it online somewhere? I tried looking at the mopar site but it was way too much "Oh, plastic jeeps are so awesome and you need fake rock rails for them and while you're at it buy a neon because they're really fast" and I never actually managed to find if they have a sensible product listing or not, or if you could just download a whole catalouge that had things listed in a LOGICAL fashion, say by make and model of engine/vehicle or something. It's all glitter and no go.
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I think he's asking both. Build one like the rear half of my exo. Bolt it to the bed with plates, but on the other side have another plate and tube to tie it into the frame. Then it won't come off.
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It's a neat rig and a lot of work. It weighs a TON though.
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Actually, I think if he had a gear drive for the timing he'd be okay for close to that. But apparently the crank goes somewhere around 6300.
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You're probably better off with the explorer axle. But that's IMHO. See what one costs in your area first. It's not a bolt in. The spring perches are in the wrong spot and are SUA from the factory. There's also some anti-sway bar funk on the axle. So, there's a few things that need to be cut off. Then you'll need to weld on new perches. Weld the axle tubes around their perimeter to the centre section at the same time. I had a machine shop do my previous 8.8 entirely. Removed old stuff, welded on new stuff. Cost about $100. But I did supply the spring perches and told them where to put them. You'll also need shock mount brackets too. Rusty's off-road sells both at a reasonable price too (much as I dislike them).
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There's a reason why people don't use those axles very much. Something to do with parts availability.
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It's not there. Looks like he f'd up his ad. However, I DOUBT it's a 2.8 or 2.5. Just look at what he lists. And I doubt it's a 4.0L either. I'm thinking it's a mopar V8, just judging by the decals and the ram. Probably a 360. Somebody could ask though. I'm too lazy to try to remember my ebay password.
