DirtyComanche

Did you take any measurements of the aerostar ones? I could get them pretty easy. There's one down the street. Wonder how easy they are to take off... ;)

I actually looked at mine a bunch more, and I'm not so worried. Those toy cabs are crap anyways, and my top triangle runs over my head a lot better than that. I'm still going to put a couple tie-in plates between the cab top and cage.

Sell the XJ springs. Best thing to do with them. It's hard to say on height. When you go SOA a whole whack of things will affect the final height. Rear axle tube diameter, spring perche style (height), if you use 2wd or 4wd springs, etc will all affect it. I doubled the mains on my rear packs (gives them a good feel) and got about 7.5" of lift when I went SOA. That was with an exploder 8.8 and some slightly taller perches (about 1" off the tube). I think I was also running doubled over-loads. I want to say you'd get about 7". I'd try it without the shackles first, and if you don't like the stance, add them. Or add a second main to the packs - it's a good mod because the stock springs are a little too soft.

SOA the stock MJ rears for about 5-6" of lift (depending how you do it).

Apparently my rears are 150lbs/in. I think the calculator is flawed. Let's go with 160.

800kg rear, 1100kg front... Or 4180lbs total. That was with me in it and gear, a full interior and the old front end and no exo. That's close enough. So, 1760lbs on the rear axle. 880lbs per coil. What else do I need to know? My current spring-rate I guess. Blah.

Guess I should have said "jack up". :nuts: Hopefully nobody was permanently scarred.

True, but I need something in the right range before I even look at the rate. I already know a stock TJ is too short. I was hoping people would throw out ideas of coils I could nab from the boneyard to start trying things... I know, I should just calculate my leafs' rate and measure the difference between loaded and unloaded to determine the weight on my rear axle... But yeah. Sounds like a lot of work right now. I wonder how you figure out when your leaf springs have hit the zero load point anyways? If I jack off the frame they'll unload, but the unsprung weight makes it impossible to tell when... Durr... Haven't a clue right now. Maybe I should scale it again. Or maybe it was 800kg in the rear last time. I've lost myself :dunce:

I've got 12-13" of free space for the coil at intended ride height... But it has to hold the weight of the truck... I'm thinking a TJ rear is 12" free. So, maybe a TJ 3" lift coil? How long is a stock XJ/MJ front coil? (Gave mine away...)

That's different! Normally they get more picky on the emissions on things like that.

There's a schreder fitting on the fuel rail towards the front of the engine. It's pretty standard, in most gauges for that crap will pop right on.

Build the 60... Run SRW hubs and cut down the long side about 5" to match the 14B. Shave both of them. You can turn down the ring gear about .188 without losing much strength and combine it with a nice hack off the bottom on both the axles. Clearance would be comparable to a stock D44. Then run whatever size tire makes you happy. Then it's over-kill and the only failures you will have are maintenance items (ie, do your work and they won't happen). No turd polishing here.

Why? It's an expensive turd.

See how bad it is. If there's no rust, don't put any por-15 on it. Even if there is some, I'd suggest cleaning it off mechanically, priming it with a rust primer, and putting a couple coats of decent paint on it...

Take whatever you throw at them for about 12 seconds.

No, it's screwed. On the 4cyl setting it seems to be the same, and on the 8 it reads rather low. So, unless I take it apart, I have no options. I even tried hitting it with a hammer.

Close enough. All the engine and driveline stuff is going to be almost identical. You'd have to ask Eagle for the specifics between the years (I dun know nuttin'). But the differences between an XJ and MJ are more cosmetic and structeral than mechanical.

IAC, yup. It's on the throttle body - has a 3 wire plug. Two torx to take it out. Search on here for the FSMs, I think there's a link in some thread somewhere... Personally I have a hard copy, and they're well worth it.

Bolt pattern is 5x4.5. Stock is 15x7 with 5.25"(?) backspacing. Explorers, rangers, other jeeps, older dodge cars, older dodge vans, and a few other things have the same pattern. And your idle is probably your IAC. Well, start there. Take it out and clean it. Maybe replace it (get a couple from the boneyard).

I'd say to jsut buy good comfortable belts... Cheap ones normally aren't comfortable. Maybe the better ones will be over-kill, but they might be worth it sometime. And I have no clue about anchor points. I'd like to see them if anybody comes up with them. I only run the stock belts, which isn't the best.

I took mine out to save weight. No sound deadening, no insulation... If you have the seats out, I'd probably pop it up and have a look underneath. Yes, you don't live in a rust area. That doesn't mean there won't be any, as water can become trapped under the carpet. Oh, dynamat is the stuff everyone uses to sound/heat proof their cars. It just sticks on. But it's not much to look at. SO, you'd want something over top of it, I'd think.

I thought the chain from a Dodge truck 242HD was considered an upgrade. And what about the internals from a Hummer 242 (242AMG)? I don't know about the dodge, but the hummer parts don't fit AFAIK. Unless you swap the whole case. And the hummer case has a couple odd things about it. Oh, and if you went that route you'd have to make your own SYE (not the end of the world). Maybe the dodge case works. Dunno... But it is not rated for much more torque than the 242J. And it's rated about half of the 241HD.

Yes, the only SYEs for the 242 are hack'n'tap style. You see no increase in strength in the rear output/mainshaft. A major weak link. And there's no upgrades for the chain.

I disagree, but I won't get into it again.

I broke mine on 35s with a LS.