DirtyComanche

Woah really? Do you have any more info on this? i've got a busted A/C condensor that i've wanted to get rid of for the longest time... I've told you all I know. Apparently it works, but I have no pictures to back it up. I'm going to look into it along with some of the other options. Other options: http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=956261 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=540166 I'm currently looking for an option that will allow me to put the A/C compressor somewhere else - I want it for OBA.

I'm looking for any new ideas. Or old ideas. Throw out whatever you've got. I'll get the ball rolling with one. High mount alternator - I have not tried this, but apparently the 2.5L bracketry will allow a 4.0L alternator to be mounted in place of the A/C compressor. Why mount it high? So it doesn't injest mud, which will kill the slip rings and bearings.

Apocalyptical - I don't care

A couple things about this thread... 1) Stop calling it a god-damn unibody! It's not! A unibody is what you see in a crappy sub-compact car. A UNIFRAME is what we have. It is different in that we still have clearly defined 'frame-rails', which just so happen to have the cab welded to them. 2) Welding process DOES NOT MATTER when welding mild steel. Stick, MIG, Flux-core, TIG, gas, whatever. It'll all work and when used by a competent person who chooses the correct filler it will produce a near identical result. Most el-cheapo MIGs can produce enough heat to get proper penetration on the frame rails, as they really aren't very think (most of it is about 16ga, I believe). I'd personally use a MIG welder as I have one, I know how to use it, and it's faster/easier than most of the other avaliable methods. If anybody told me I had to do the repair with an ARC/stick I would either look them in the eye and tell them to get bent, or tell them I did as they would not be able to verify otherwise. And as a side note, prep is king on the uniframe. It's dip-galvanized from the factory, and you'll get mad zinc contamination if you don't prep it well. If you burn through multiple layers (where there is seams, etc) you may get some unavoidable contamination. That will suck.

Did it actually rust through? There's holes in the frame that are ment to be there... If it's rusted through, you can fix it, but it's involving. I wouldn't patch it.

I can drink about a half cup. Then my head starts to ache. If I'm hungover and cold, I can have about 2 cups since I'm hurting anyways. I drink tea normally... A LOT of tea. Think pots and pots of it.

I believe that's a TH-350 and a NP205. But I could easily be wrong. Read around on here... http://www.novak-adapt.com/

I can't imagine living in a place that annually sees big storms like that. Maybe it's just because I've always lived where I have. Although, I guess people would say the same thing about a canadian winter. Not that it'll flood your house though...

I don't know if you can run one of those fancy ones...? Anyways, the stock replacement one is like $10, and it's not yellow anymore. Kinda a grey/black. Well, it cost me $10. So I imagine it's like 2.99 in the states.

The plan was to have the flare cover it so even if it looked bad, nobody would know. Unfortunatly it came out more or less not as functional as I'd like. And the only thing I did wrong was I needed to use some 2 or 2.5" flat bar instead of 1". Bah. I might do some major surgery on it instead. Jeepco's method looks like fun.

That seems reasonable. It was the only thing I didn't look at in detail, as I wasn't planning to mount them with those holes.

So I have this pile of an XJ that I've been working on (didn't bother to post a build thread here). I figured I'd try everything that I figured was nifty with it, after all it's a dirt cheap pile. It's kinda like when you pick up that really dirty girl at the bar, you might as well do everything that you've always wanted to try, right? Anyways, so I did weld in rock sliders (rocker replacements) and it actually came out good enough that I was inclined to try to make a nice build of the thing. I mean, if she took that like a champ, what else can she do? So I figured I'd try something different for trimming the rear wheel wells. Instead of just cutting it to the pinch, or cutting and folding the pinch, I figured I'd weld some flat bar behind the pinch and remove the lip/pinch completely. Man, did it ever come out bad. Image Not Found I don't even know what to say. It's so ugly that I didn't even bother to clean up the front area. I just quit. Yeah, clearance is good and all that, but I didn't do it well enough for clearance to be great. In fact, had I stopped for about 15 seconds and thought about what I was doing before I did it, I could have made it so it came out looking decent, and with better clearance. Anyways, that's my little rant for the night. Now I get to cut that crap off and try it again.

Not a 'are 2dr XJ flares the same' thread, but a 'what the hell is the difference between the RH and LH rear flares' thread. I looked at them for about 20 minutes. I can't figure it out. One says LH, the other RH. Is that the only difference?

I would, and it's not even a political thing. I think McCain might have struck a little genius on this one...

I read up on sond deadening materials... But I don't want to go that route for the floor. I think I'll just throw some liner on it and see how it goes. I'll stuff the XJ's carpet into the cab of the MJ for now, and take it to the dump if I find the noise level acceptable. Or I'll just throw it out and get a new one later. Although, I do have to admit, this XJ did have nice carpet except for all the broken glass. Of course, I need to make/steal a new hedliner and a bunch of interior peices before I could really say anything for sure. It's a little lacking right now.

What is it? I couldn't find it... I'm thinking it's a deck coating? Which is basically what some bedliners are...

I've got pretty conflicting answers for this one so far...

Anybody thrown it on the floor/firewall/etc instead of the carpet/foam? Quiter? Louder? Didn't notice? I pulled the carpet out of this cher-o-pile today and don't really feel like putting it back in. I've got some bedliner, thinking of throwing it on the floor and up to the firewall instead... I don't want this thing to be any noisier than can be expected. I'm also torn on giving up the carpet as it probably helps keep the cold out in the winter. Thoughts?

Thanks, but I found a parts guy that wasn't a moron... At least, he sold me a master that looks like the old one, and a line that looks like the old one... Was about $130 tax in for both. Blah.

True, but it is a fixable problem... Yukon will do chromos for about $250/set, so some 30 spliners of those and a locker of your choice... Problem solved and one better. I'd watch the housings too. The XJ/MJ ones are good, but some of the other stuff uses thin/small tubes. They need a truss, which is more work.

The 19 spline is old junk, think CJs and earlier... And I'd think similar things about 27.

It does leak, it drips of the driveway. She'd been driving it for half a year like this - just fill it up every morning. All the paint off the firewall is blistered and peeling... Now I'm scared about that fuse panel, brake fluid would probably be somewhat bad for that... I'll get the hose if I can. I have a feeling that will be a little hard without a part number. The guys who work in parts stores here are retards.

I looked. No signs of leakage on the bottom of the tranny/bell-housing. I guess I'll order a new master. No reman.

I haven't looked underneath yet, mostly out of dread. But it dripped on the driveway when I drove it in... The paint is all peeled around the master, down the firewall and engine bay. But I don't know if that was from it leaking, or the girl filling it... Guess I'd better get underneath and see if there's a huge wet spot? If the 'infernal' slave fails, is it normally catastrophic? As in no clutch authority? This thing still works, just needs a quick pump... Okay, I'll go look.

Gotta pump the clutch or she keeps going... I'd assumed slave, but now that I think about it, it could be the master instead no? There's lots of spilled brake fluid around the master. But that doesn't mean it leaked as the PO was a girl and she filled it regularily... Would I get an obvious dripping around the bottom of the bellhousing if it's the slave (internal)? Any good way to see a brake fluid leak?