DirtyComanche

http://princegeorge.kijiji.ca/c-cars-ve ... Z375411205 DAMNIT. Going to look tomorrow. Gotta check to see if the brake controller works, so I can just take the trailer out there.

Actually, it's an auto :( Total bummer :(

Another route... Mercedes OM617.95X, use the tranny with it, and divorced Nissan truck tcase... I'm going to go look at the 'Luxury Sedan'... It's more than I want to spend, but it looks nice :rotf:

I didn't know Richmond had that deal... I stay there often enough, but can't recall if I've ever actually bought fuel in Richmond... I hit up a Husky in Delta last time, it was the worst gas station I'd ever been to. The diesel pump (which I was hoping was a commercial speed pump) did about 5L/minute, so I gave up after 50L. It leaked all over the place at the same time, and they had thrown spill absorbent all over the ground to try to slow the environmental travesty, all within sight of the river. They also had to take my word on how much fuel I bought, since they didn't seem to have any system to tell what the pumps had dispensed. Or maybe that's what the 10yo girl was supposed to be doing, but they just figured I was honest :dunno: At least they didn't have an issue holding my credit card.

"I just found out how rare these are and the price went (WAY) up." WOW No kiddin'! That was just at $3500 even this morning! :shake: Update: $6500 I should call and offer 1500. Get a couple people to call and offer $500-1500, all from different numbers, every couple of days. Eventually he'll get the hint.

On the topic... I needed gas on my way home tonight. Normally I buy fuel only during the day, since the 24hr station near me is kinda :nuts: But, I had an unexpected trip back into town, and had no choice. In BC you have to prepay for fuel... So I put my card in the pump, it accepted, but then I sat there and waited for the pump to be authorized for a couple minutes... So, I got annoyed and cancelled it and went inside to pay. After standing in front of the till for a minute before the cashier realized I was there, I explained that I needed some fuel: "Can't you just use your card at the pump?" Me "I tired, the pump didn't authorize, so I came in. So here's my card." (Most places will just hold a credit card and run it after you pump the fuel) "I have to charge you for the fuel before you pump it. How much do you need?" (Slightly annoyed) "Oh, say, $135 or $140ish. Something like that." "You know I can't refund you if you don't take all of it?" (Annoyed) "Umm, no, I did not know that since everywhere else would either just hold my card, or would pre-authorize it but not charge it until the final amount was known. And if not, I'm sure they could give me a refund. So you mean to tell me that I have to guess the exact amount of fuel that my truck is going to take?" "I can't give you a refund. Why didn't you just use your card at the pump?" :doh: Not going back there.

Copper prices are sky-high... There's a reason people steal live wires and plumbing for scrap.

I didn't know the 1.6 was an IDI engine... I need to do more reading on the appropriate forums... A 1.9L will be a lot more spendy, but I would definitely prefer a DI engine. Is there any computerized gizmos on the 1.9L? Also trying to avoid that, not that I fear wiring.

The T12s are considered to be obsolete, and eventually will be phased out of production (which will drive the lamp costs up, if nothing else, and ballasts may be hard to find). I don't know what the intended time frame for this is. T8s are now considered to be the low-end lamp. The T5s are new technology and will be around for a long time, they've only really been on the home consumer market for under a year. Light output per watt is miles better on a T5 than an old T12 (or even a newer T8), and this is worth something in energy savings and wire size savings. They're also a physically smaller lamp, making it easier to hang fixtures and replace bulbs. Also, I hate the old magnetic ballasts that are commonly seen with T12s, since the humming from them drives me nuts. There isn't any of those for T5s. If I had a bunch of T12 fixtures, or got them for a really good deal (like Hornbrod), I would use them... But if I was buying new, I'd buy the T5s and be done with it.

T5 or T5HO. T8s are junk in comparison, and T12s are obsolete junk. Check the lighting section at homodepot, you will be amazed.

Been off them for a few years now. :nuts:

Not bad here. It does log me out every day or so, it's the only forum that the 'Log me in automatically' or 'Keep me logged in' thing doesn't work on. Also, if you visit the homepage in IE, it takes you to the what-ever-it-is group thingy instead of allowing you to either visit the forum or the group thingy. Does not do it in any of the real browsers, but I visited from a work computer a couple times and struggled to make it work (had to google the forum to get a direct link).

And found this sweet 1990... Sadly I can't pay that. http://bc.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-car ... Z374711264

So; I'm thinking an older diesel Volkswagen engine... Almost 70HP :rotf: Apparently if I find a Passat or other larger car, it will be a regular RWD configuration. Which I think would allow one to easily go from the stock matching tranny to a divorced suzuki tcase; since it would still be short enough to not be an issue either way. The light duty components would probably compliment each other well. Or, Acme makes an adapter (http://acmeadapters.com/store_engine.php) that allows one to go to a Toyota R151? transmission, which I think is an AX-15 with a different bellhousing. So, Volkswagen, acme adapter, R151 bell, AX-15 trans, jeep tcase. More research will be done.

Curious how it will look on July 4th, 2012.

I'll agree that you should go get things documented... But, I'd not claim for monetary compensation unless it was actually legitimately affecting your life in a negative way. The reason insurance rates are so high is so many people figure that a fender bender equals 6 months of paid leave and some extra spending cash. I destroyed a Ford Focus, and wrote off the truck I was driving in the process (don't worry, it wasn't a MJ), and all of the cops/ems were saying "Oh, you're going to be so sore tomorrow." I got up the next day and felt fine.

I'd just get one of them, but they are simply not around. The last diesel I saw listed at all local to me, was an XJ, $5000 and not budging. It was NOT mint. However, I think I should be better able to find something in the 80HP range. I was looking for something more along the lines of 120-150HP, and there just isn't anything that I can source, or it is mad $$$.

Can you maintain speed on decent grades? There's a 6%er in town, traffic speed is normally 70-80km/h or 40-50mph on it (not saying anything about the actual limit, that's much lower :rotf: ). Is your truck capable of holding that speed on that type of grade, reasonably unloaded? I don't care if you have to drop gears or if it's foot to the floor (I don't understand people that cry about having to gear down, that's what gears are for :nuts: ). What sort of fuel economy do you get out of the 2.1L Renault? My daily drive is mostly rural roads, a short stretch of not very busy highway, some in town, and only a couple steep hills. If a 80HP diesel is plenty livable in those conditions, it will make my life a lot easier for finding a suitable candidate to swap. I'll agree that matching the final drive and gear ratios is probably far more important than just having gobs of power on tap, but it really only goes so far.

I imagine those cars were super light weight? 38HP at 12000rpm :rotf: Did they have oil injection or did you have to mix the gas? The air cooled diesels have a small fan for cooling, so it should probably not overheat at idle. That said, still I don't think it would be suitable. If it was more like 50HP, perhaps, but being air cooled probably isn't the best thing in general, the lack of safe heater options kinda kills it for me.

I had two blue tops die last year. They were on my service trailer, and I guess they couldn't handle being deep-cycled once :fs2: Ran them down and they wouldn't take a charge after that, got them tested, both came back bad. And the red top I had did the sudden death thing. I thought it was a great battery, then one day it did nothing. Wouldn't charge again. So, not taking an Optima for $125 even.

Do you have diagrams (they're in the FSM and some of the aftermarket manuals)? And do you know how to read them? I'd start by taking contact cleaner to the fuse box. Try to flush the brake fluid out of it, then take a good strong light and look it over well. If the fuse contacts are all corroded, and the plastic is failing, then it's probably too late for the box... Not a good thing. Beyond that, just start tracing wires on the systems that don't work. Watch for the common grounds, they cause more grief than most people realize. And I'd take apart all connectors and clean them out with contact cleaner, inspect them, then reapply dielectric grease to them to prevent corrosion. If you get a GM pin tool you can reseat any loose pins in the connectors, or pull them apart to clean off corrosion as needed; Lisle tools makes some universal pin tools that aren't too expensive.

So, in a daily driver MJ, how little horsepower do you think you could survive with? IIRC, curb weight is about 2800lbs for a 4wd SB 4.oh, and 3000lbs~ for the same in a LB. Which isn't really that heavy... I daily drove a Dodge with a curb weight in the 6800lbs area, and it only had 160HP :rotf: I never thought it was an issue, it just meant passing was creative and top speed was only 140km/h; which really wasn't bad. I've slowed down a lot in my advancing years, and honestly don't feel a need to chirp the tires into second (or third) anymore... On that reasoning, an 80HP diesel in a MJ shouldn't be any worse than my 160HP Dodge was... Especially if the diesel engine weighs less than the 4.0 (or whatever) it is replacing. I've got a line on some really nice 25HP air cooled diesels, but I just don't think that would cut it, but it would really save some weight with the deletion of the cooling system and half of everything else in the engine bay, of course you would need a janitrol heater for in the winter, so that might not be so awesome. For a DD, what do people think is a minimum reasonable amount of HP?

Where's that river? Looks like a place I need to stop on a roadtrip...

which is fine until you have to get something replaced. My local truckie is a complete d-bag to you if you haven't bought it from him. I can understand him not liking it as Snap-On charges him for any replacements, and he makes no money off them. But his attitude is so bad, I wouldn't buy anything from him anyway. Truck guys like this are idiots, and will probably go broke (eventually). It doesn't cost them to warranty stuff for you, but they have to eat the lack of inventory until they get reimbursed. My truck guy warranties all sorts of things for me, and he knows I buy lots of it used. He also warranties consumables sometimes (not supposed to, he's eating it basically), and he has let me keep parts of broken pieces so that I have some spare stuff on hand (mirrors is the big one). He does this so that I am happy, and I tell people that I am happy with him, and so that I give out his business cards to my wheeling friends so they can track him down to buy things. It's not like the high-end tool market is exactly booming right now, so he has to take all the good PR he can get. BTW, most tool failures stem entirely from abuse. Some from wear, some from genuine flaws, but most are abuse. If you're putting a snipe on a ratchet, or hitting it with a hammer, it's probably going to fail to no fault of its own. Likewise, a regular box end isn't a striking wrench. And an open end isn't meant to break a frozen bolt free. Nor should you ever use a regular socket in an impact gun... I run a lot of Craftsman stuff, some of it at work even, and I don't have issues unless I'm asking for it. Likewise, I've killed some Snap-On stuff by 'asking' for it. Yes, I know, the world is not perfect and sometimes you have to abuse a tool just to make something work, but I feel one should always strive to find the right tool for the job.

I don't have a toaster, or a toaster oven. Well, I had a toaster, but apparently when I moved in 2009 (I think) I decided I didn't need it anymore. Or maybe it's at my parent's house. Regardless, I just use my oven. Works perfect. Put the rack as high as possible, throw the bread in (if I'm toasting it, it's because it's frozen bread), set oven to bake @ 350 degrees, wait a couple minutes, flip bread over, wait a couple more minutes, and it's golden brown with grid marks.