acfortier

I haven't in awhile, and when I did, there was no codes--but let me give that a shot again.

Not sure what that actually entails. Can I just swap a junkyard one in directly (from the same setup, 4.0 MT) and it should work?

I purchased this one and I'm not overly impressed with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CM68Z2V4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Screen is extremely dim and hard to see during the day. Audio quality is meh. Had a different $50 Amazon one that was way worse. That Power Acoustik one seems a bit more legit, hopefully it's better quality.

OK, finally had some time to play around with this over the weekend. I had previously replaced the CrPS with a Crown unit when I was tracking down this issue previously (that turned out to be a worn terminal on the ignition coil). Since I pulled the stock one, and still had it, I figured I would put it back in (since it theoretically wasn't bad). After replacing, still the same--crank, no start. I swapped around a few relays for the ASD to rule that out, no change. There was a crusty looking ground with two wires on the driver's side fender near the ECU, that I cleaned and replaced, no change. Cap and rotor didn't seem terrible looking, and was going to replace, but bought the wrong parts--forgot I had put in a '95+ dist. in, so uses a different style rotor. Going to test the sync signal generator: If that turns out good, I guess the only other thing it could possibly be is the ECU going bad?

Crank sensor, one on the bellhousing.

Well, was driving it the other day and completed died, and wouldn't start. Just crank and crank and crank... Getting 0.3V at the ignition coil when cranking, other wire is 12V. I'm pretty sure it should be 5V when cranking. Another oddity is testing the voltage on the ECU side at the CPS plug. One wire gives my ~8.4V, the other ~3.5V when the key is ON. Is this normal? Not sure how else to test the CPS on a HO other than the resistance (which is still infinite)

Went to go drive it today and getting a crank, no start condition again. No spark, not sure what’s going on. The one time I go to use it, and it’s dead… Times like this make me want to sell it. Or at least trade for a motorcycle. Lol

I suppose I could, but it really looks like both sensors are having issues? Bottom is bank 1, top is bank 2.

Are you saying water is getting in via where the hood and cowl meet? I would get a new seal for there, if you still have the old one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pqp-cs-6110-84?srsltid=AfmBOoqX-FHNajIiJwIZWZ4PHSxFTHYwfaafbp_ebxmnN7gw8mrDK7djHWA EDIT: I think I installed the 97+ one, but not sure if that was intentional on my part or not? Can't remember if it's an "upgrade" over the older style? https://www.prp.com/product/detail/353642?SearchType=AGR&sort=u.Name&paginationCount=24&year=1998&make=&model=&type=All

I recently picked up a 2010 Jeep Commander with the 5.7 Hemi to DD. Mileage is around 173,000 (I've put on about 3-4k since I've bought it in late March). I've been lately having P0420 and P0430 pop up here and there--but I can clear the code, and it does go away for some time. Also have a phantom P0456 coming up, but less often. Trying to diagnose if I need new cats or not. I took a quick snapshot of the O2 voltage over a period of a few minutes last night, engine was at temp. Pre-cat O2 sensors look fine, but the post-cat ones have some dips that might be somewhat concerning? I found this general reference chart that makes me believe that I do need new cats, although it's not as bad as their example?

I'm not sure you want to use that type of fuel line connector for your transmission lines? I'd probably replace the actual adapter at the radiator with something that has a barb end to it and use rubber hose, or if you want to get real fancy, make your own AN lines.

Where in MA are you again?

That seems like a great price, but not sure how much is varies depending on location. I had a MJ D44 with 3.55 gears, no idea of internal condition, that I had sold for $500 a year ago or so.

IMO, if you want to delete the fork, you should probably go all the way with one piece axle shaft. I'm sure a hose clamp is fine, but something tells me not to trust it more than the fork that was designed to hold the collar in place...

My parents have an extra set of JL wheels in their basement, and asked if I wanted them. 245/75R17 on 17x7.5 ET44 wheels. Definitely quite a bit bigger than my 235/75R15. Will obviously need spacers, which should give me another 1.25" of spacing, since these wheels sit roughly 25mm closer, so after the spacers, it'll be about 6mm further out, so not much different than where they are now. Has anyone here done that? I tried searching for some pictures, but haven't found much. 2 of the tires in my current set aren't "round" according to the local tire shop last time I took them to get rebalanced due to a shimmy/shake around 65-70 mph. I figured for the price of a set a spacers, wouldn't mind switching over to another set of wheels for the time being.

So your coil isn't getting a signal when you crank? I had a really weird situation where the input to the coil was extremely loose and would cause intermittent crank, no start conditions. I could push/pull on the plug and it would cut out and die. I guess I would check voltage at the coil and check the terminals on that plug?

From the FSM: These values are ft-lbs

Seems so! I put in ~3.5 quarts or so, and hasn't dripped once. I'm thinking it was actually the crappy gasket I used originally, as it was kinda warped when taking it off the pan. The Mopar one was much nicer.

I wish someone made just the replacement bezel for manual windows/locks. Mine are looking suuuuper crusty.

Took advantage of the warm weather we're having, and got underneath and replace the pan + gasket. Torque'd everything to spec, hopefully that will be the end of it. I'll know more tomorrow if my plywood piece underneath is soaked or not.

Haven't done too much recently. Put in a new head unit: Added an amp, sub, and some nicer door speakers: Also drained and refilled the AX-15 with some MT90 to see if an odd noise would go away. It didn't, but it seems to shift smoother: Also finally did the CAD delete once my light stay illuminated: And had been cruising as my daily for the past few months. Started to get a worse and worse noise coming from some bearing in the engine bay: And determined it was the alternator. Had no issues charging, just was extremely noisy and junk. Replaced it same day with a reman. unit from the local auto parts store and everything is good.

IDing connectors has always been a PITA--how did you go about it?

My truck has a YJ prop valve, no issues braking/locking up, ever.

Huh, I'll have to scope it and check it out. The base is leaking, already replaced the gasket with an o-ring here: I'm assuming since it's still weeping out, I have excessive crankcase pressure, but it'd be interesting if that could also cause the bearing in the distributor to fail by not getting good lubrication.