acfortier

Ah, good point--Dakota won't work. 77.8 vs. 87.1 from the 78 Bronco axles. Doesn't seem to be any options 16x8 with 87.1 bore size, nor 16x7 with 87.1 bore size and 5x5.5. I think you're SOL. I've been using this site: https://www.wheel-size.com/# if you want to try to play around with it--but putting in those specs, nothing comes up. Only thing with 16x7 and 87.1 bore is Ford's 5x135

Dodge Dakota from 2005 - 2011 used 5x5.5, 16x8 ET25.4 https://wheelsamerica.com/?s=&ymm_search=1&post_type=product&_make=Dodge&_model=Dakota&filter_size_1=16&filter_width_2=8&filter_bolt_3=5-5 EDIT: fixed links for 5x5.5

From the '06 TJ Parts Catalog: This looks like it's only one? Although something changed after 08-01-05

Doh—you’re right. I thought the 4.2L was still in use in the YJ in ‘92. Although, it looks like this CPS is a different style than the one used on our MJs.

Had a chance to drop the old transmission. Wasn't too bad of a job. Looking at the old transmission, it's clear there were/are some issues... Kickdown linkage wasn't connected. The entire mechanism on the transmission itself is missing, and it looks like someone tried to goop/seal it up with blue RTV. Weird... Both tranny cooler lines need to be replaced. One of them snapped off in the transmission itself, the other just twisted until it broke off. Shouldn't be a big deal, but they were definitely stuck in there. Someone, at some point, already changed/messed with the tranny cooler lines, since there's a foot extra of rubber hose in the circuit that needs to be removed. The vacuum actuator to select from 2WD and 4WD was in the trunk, and someone just installed a spring to keep the TC in 4WD all of the time... yeah, that's not gonna fly lol The NP128--is it supposed to sound this, uh, bad? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Iy_F09f7BiygBVnW8j3VALKA5UOqcGfF/view?usp=sharing The transmission from the '92 YJ looks like it'll be a near exact match, except for a hole that will need to be plugged up on the top of the transmission--not sure what it's used for on the '92 YJ?

Should well tell him the grill is upside down?

It got lower with the more options. I'm pretty sure Rubicon and similar trims were around 1200. The highest I think was available on a Sport S model with manual transmission. My Willys was around 1200 IIRC

Have you called around to see if there are any junkyard 2.5s avail? car-part.com lists a 2.5 in Kalispell, not sure how far you want to drive.

Wow, I'm surprised its that high. I think that payload rating is higher than my Gladiator that I had.

Personally, I think that's a lot of money to drop on a 2.5L. I'd probably try looking for a junkyard engine, if you can find one, or move to a 4.0L which will require a little bit of work to fit in your '86.

I think they're solid grocery getters and provide a pickup bed for whenever you need a little extra space to transport something. But I wouldn't plan on towing anything, hauling anything heavy, etc. A Comanche seems more practical if you can get over the lack of modern technology

If you have the dummy lights, the necessary temperature and oil pressure senders aren't there to run the new gauges. Dummy lights and gauges use different sensors. Speedometer doesn't have to be from an XJ, they just changed how it was connected over the years. Just need the proper year speedo cable dependent on which year cluster you get.

Thanks to @jpnjake, picked up the transmission from the '92 YJ. Will be hopefully using this in the Eagle, once I have a chance to drop the old one. I owe you pics of my black bucket seats in the MJ!

No joke! I think I was looking for a wheel hub assembly for the Eagle and couldn't find nothing... heh. At least I was able to find something for the MJ!

Thanks! I'll probably try to order a set soon. Good to have things like that on hand since the aftermarket is so small. Not really much of an update, haven't touched it. Still debating what I want to do about the transmission. That '87 in the yard near me is selling theirs for $345, has 120,000 miles on it or something. Thinking I may just go that route for now. Replacement rockers came in from Canada. Got a cover for it since I doubt I'll have it running by the winter (but fingers crossed).

Haven't tried starting it again, but may stop at the parts store to pick up a Napa ignition coil to keep with me as a spare... I'm still pretty baffled by this issue. Does it need to crank awhile for a new CPS to read properly? I can't think of any other reason why I wouldn't have spark for a few minutes then go back and it turns on like nothing happened.

DId you end up using the brackets that are found with the tow mirrors, or just bolted them right to the door?

I think it’s part of this set: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Electrical-Multimeter-Digital-90-to-1000-V-Test-Meter-Battery-Included/1000860316

Just a multimeter.

Heh, gotta love these types of problems. Went to go check the resistance on the coil, and to confirm that the coil was getting voltage. 2 Ohms between the coil terminals, 10V at the plug when cranking. Seems like the coil should be fine... so I put the spark tester on the coil, and was getting spark. WTF. Put everything back together, and it fired right up. Ugh. Not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing?

Well... Just got around to changing the CPS today with a Crown unit, and no luck. Won't even start this time. I'm at a loss here. What else controls spark at the coil? Is there a way for me to test the CPS to know if it's good? Same with the coil?

Yeah, I think that's going to be next on my list to change out.

Yeah, probably. They've got to be decently rare, at this point. I have one extra one, probably grab a few others. Trim parts, side markers, headlight bezels, etc. are all on the list for me, same with smaller interior parts.

Ordered that repair manual, hopefully it'll be the right one/useful. Also got tags for it! Ordered some rockers from that company up in Canada. Talked about buying a lift with my stepdad, so will probably wait to do that until we drop the transmission to see what's going on. In other news, looks like a yard somewhat close to me got an 87 Eagle the other day--hopefully I can pick some of the smaller parts of it for mine once they have it inventoried.

Well, this reared its ugly head again. Went to go pull it out to do an oil change, and started to creep forward, then died. Definitely didn't stall it, just shut off completely. Went to go start it, and nothing. Will crank and crank and crank. I had purchased this spark tester a while back: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002STSBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it looks like I'm not getting any spark from the ignition coil. I moved the needle from 40 kV to 25 kV, and it didn't make a difference. Nothing would appear. Unless I had a poor ground--I had it clipped to the metal lip where the firewall and hood meet, so I think it should be sufficient. Not sure what to try and replace next, will have to go back through this thread.