acfortier

Is that Olympic Edition with the roll bar LWB?

My parents had a a silver 60th XJ, like yours. The uniform color across everything just looks so good. Unfortunately, they had to get rid of it--I think it was either something with the head or electrolysis and the engine rusted inside out maybe? I can't remember. Wish I could find one, they're definitely rare.

Not much happening today, replaced the flasher for the turn signals, everything works great now. Checked the washer pumps, both front and rear are getting 12V at the plug, but the pumps aren't doing anything, so I guess I need to replace both.

I think I have a NIB Universal Wiring Kit from BJs if it's of any use to you: https://www.bjsoffroad.com/Wiring-Kit-Universal-21-Circuit_p_484.html Bought it when I was going to re-wire my J10, but decided to just re-use the stock one. Dakota Digital gauges are nice! Put one in my J10 when I had it.

Since it was warm out, decided to tackle some more stuff with the Eagle. Pulled out the yellow wire that was used for the old coil, since it's not doing anything. There's also a dark green wire that goes to the ECU (I think) that would have connected to the old coil. Just tucked that one away for now. Upon inspection of the alternator, there are no plugs or anything where that orange w/t would be able to connect to. All I have is a wire going from the alternator, directly to the battery (which should prob. go to the starter relay, but probably doesn't really matter?). This is the type of alternator I need, which would be stock: So, whether I want to bring it back to stock form, or leave it as it is for now... we'll see. AFAIK, nothing is currently wrong with the charging circuit, but the indicator light just won't ever work if it does stop working. Anyways, got the front all sorted with new headlights, pigtails for the high beams (since one of the POs completely hacked apart the headlamp assembly and the wiring harness to put in these Blazer brand lights), and new bezels. Looks a lot better! All lights work as expected, but trying the turn signals didn't do anything, left or right. Didn't dive into it more, since there was other stuff to do, but something to keep in mind. The lower radiator hose that I replaced is continuing to leak. Idk if it's the water pump outlet (pretty rusted) or if it was due to having to trim the hose to get it to fit without kinking, but it just comes up and over the edge of the hose, and the hose clamp is as tight as it can be. Really strange. Bought a Gates brand hose to try instead. Re-connected the cut alternator warning and upshift indicators and plugged in the new cluster I got. Clock works, can adjust the time, and the gas gauge was reading correctly. However, the coolant temp. gauge was all the way down and didn't budge at all after it idling for some time--not sure if I gave it enough time or what, but may have to dive deeper into that. Went to go replace the rear wiper arm, and realized the knurl is a different size than the front wipers. Ordered an arm from Amazon for an XJ rear, hopefully they're the same. I think that's about it. Remaining things to do: Figure out why turn signals aren't working. Replace lower radiator hose/water pump to stop leak. Also going to do a complete system flush since it's ruuuuuuuusty colored. Retrofit oil dipstick tube so I can actually check the oil level Haven't checked in awhile, but I'm pretty sure the washer fluid motor isn't working. Will need to dive into that. I think that's really the majority of things that need to get done to make it a daily/get an inspection sticker. We're close!

PO wiring is always a blast! Like that time I found 12/2 romex used to power an amp going from the battery all the way back to the truck of my Eagle.

Are you taking it to a CDJR dealership? Honestly, I'd find an indy who is familiar with this era of vehicle. They probably have kids who were born after the Comanche was discontinued. Hell, the XJ stopped production in 2001... 22 years ago. You've spent $20K on fixing your Comanche? Holy smokes. And, if I'm understanding your post correctly, you've put in a replacement engine, that is leaking from the RMS? But they've diagnosed it as crank walk or the crank is scored? Have they dropped the oil pan? I mean, if that diagnosis is correct, the cheapest option would be putting in another used engine, probably from a junkyard. But it seems like you've found out (since you're on your second engine, which I assume is from a junkyard) that they don't always work out. Comanches, although rare, aren't an investment. It's really up for you to decide how much you want to put in to it before it's not worth it to you.

The battery indicator light is part of the alternator circuit, so I guess it's not too puzzling that with a blown fuse it wouldn't charge? Seems odd to me, too, but I guess it kinda makes sense?

Went back out this morning, only a couple drops on the ground. Oil still accumulating under the drain plug, and underneath the metal strap where the oil pan dips/where the RMS is. Definitely no longer leaking from the oil filter adapter, so I guess that scratches that off the list. Valve cover gasket looks dry all around, so will need to tackle the oil pressure sending unit and distributor gasket next.

Yeah, I was just hoping I'd be able to see the wire from coil to dist. not working, which I haven't. I tested it at two separate times yesterday during my no-start issue, and both times, spark was coming through consistently. I went out this morning to see if it'd start, and go figure, started. It sputtered a bit, like you would expect a carb'd engine to start after sitting for some time, but caught and idled fine after a little while. This seems slightly different than my other no-start conditions, so IDK if it's related in anyway to spark... still scratching my head!

So, after changing the o-rings on my oil filter adapter, it won't start. I did remove the coil to dist. wire, since it was in my way (I have relocated my coil to the firewall, so the wire runs over the top of the oil filter/in front of the dipstick). And now it won't start. Took out my spark tester, and I'm getting spark from the coil. So, that should rule out the coil? But it does seem odd that the only thing I touched electrically on the truck was the wire going from the coil to the distributor. It's fairly new--had to get it when I relocated the coil. Could it really be intermittently bad?

Ran out and picked up some o-rings, replaced them, put it back together, aaaaaand--she's not starting. Makes 0 sense, unless this ugly no-start issue just seemingly happened to pop up at the same time... WTF What's interesting is my o-rings were the Renix-era ones, even though the threads on the adapter are standard (using WIX 51515 filter). Weird.

Found this: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Oil_Filter_Mount_O-Rings.htm which has some good info. Although, I'm fairly certain mine has a hex head and not a Torx like mentioned. I guess does that mean I would need the Renix or HO o-rings? "Again: Get the correct o-rings for your mount! If your filter mount uses the Torx style bolt you will need the 'kit'; if you use a box-wrench to remove the center bolt you'll have to get the o-rings seperately and they MUST be the correct size!" I'm guessing this kit will cover me: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/dorman-help/engine-cooling/engine-oil-cooler-seal/1fafab18ecda/dorman-help-oil-adapter-gasket-assortment/mtm0/82560

According to the PO, it's known that the RMS and T/C have been leaking a few drips since I purchased the Comanche, but it seems to be a lot worse now, and I'm not entirely sure that it's all from the RMS (though, it might be contributing), but not sure. At some point, it looks like the oil pan + gasket were replaced, as they're definitely newer, and I don't think the PO completed that. If those were done, I would imagine the RMS was also done, so... Oil accumulates under the drain plug. Where the RMS is is wet, along with the bolts on the oil pan on the passenger side. Looping around from the RMS to the driver side, it's dry. Moving up further, the oil filter adapter is wet, and mostly everything around it is wet, too. I didn't snag a picture from down below, but kept moving upwards. From the top end of the engine, you can see that there is oil around the oil filter adapter, and even above it, which I took some pictures of. As you can (hopefully) see from the second picture, it's not the valve cover. It's wet up until that strap point holding that wiring harness. I don't know how oil would get up that far, maybe just from leaking out from the oil filter adapter or oil pressure sending unit, and spraying upwards? What do folks think?

Think I figured out that orange w/ tracer wire. Looks like it should be connected to the alternator, somewhere--and that it comes from the cluster, which might explain why the violet w/ tracer was spliced to that other wire that was run directly to the starter solenoid.

I think I’m OK with the one I have currently. At this point, it’s just the orange with white tracer wire that is cut that ends near the battery that I’m not sure where it goes to. The spliced wires in the cab aren’t a big deal to me, since they’re not vital functions.

I just came across https://www.stache.com/, never heard of it, but seems like an AirBNB for storage units. Found a couple local options, one was actually tempting at $250 a month for a 28 x 24 garage. Would be able to fit both of my vehicles...

I've been looking for commercial property around me so I can store my two projects, and even buy a lift to work on them. Tough around here, I don't really have a great resource to find commercial properties for sale/rent/lease.

Thanks! If I come across anything that is unobtainium, I'll reach out

Yep, got lucky and found that diagram. Still haven't figured out what the orange w/ tracer wire that is cut does, and I can't seem to locate it in any of the wiring diagrams. Hmm.

Actually, don't need it! Figured it out. Went to go start it today, it would fire, and immediately die. Did some more troubleshooting on those weird spliced wires. The yellow wire was for the original coil, and the weird red w/ tracer has to be the resistance wire in the image above. I found another cut yellow wire further in the harness, and doing a continuity test from where the yellow wire terminated at the starter relay to the cut one further back, it's the same wire. Spliced the red resistance wire onto the same wire that is now going to the HEI distributor, and we're all good. Fires right up.

Tackled some more re-wiring of the starter relay. Started with this: * Red w/ yellow - goes to the distributor * Red w/ blue - goes to the cab. Traced it all the way back down to where it "spliced" in. It connected to the battery and upshift light on the cluster (wut?) and what I assume is the power pin on the clock in the cluster. Why? I have no idea. I took them all apart and will tackle that later down the road. * Yellow spliced w/ white+red w/ tracer - these are on the "I" post, which is the one that goes to the ignition coil. I have no idea what they are for, or why they are there--but the red w/ tracer wire is not copper and the insulation is like gummy... I think this is a resistance wire that was used for the CEC/MCU circuit? @89 MJ, would you happen to have a chance to snag a picture of your engine bay, specifically your starter solenoid? I do have a HEI distributor, so I wonder if these are no longer needed/used. I did hook them back up, but to the 12V+ battery terminal on the starter relay, and nothing went KABOOM when I went to go start it. Continuing on in the first picture... * 4 gauge goes to the starter * Red w/ weatherproof blue - goes to the starter solenoid on the starter * Green w/ clear spade - goes to the ignition switch And the rest goes to the battery. So swapped out that solenoid with the relay, connected it all back up, and everything seems OK (didn't snag a picture of it, will do that today). Engine turned over, but didn't start it--got a coolant leak at the hose on the water pump outlet... Hoping I don't have to change the water pump.

Interesting! Would have saved me from having to splice the new connector on the motor, lol

I think I swapped to a '97+ motor, assuming the plugs for '91 - '96 were the same: EDIT: May be the same motor, just a difference in plug between Renix and HO years? Unsure.

Had a tree fall on my newly built fence in my backyard on Friday. Merry Christmas to me!