hgeranium

This is a very dumb question, but are you recommending I should unplug the sensor and probe the connectors with the engine running all the way through cold start to warm idle? Or are you saying to check the resistances at varying temperatures with the engine off (like check it when it's cold, let it warm up then turn it off and check it etc.)? I just would be worried about running the engine for an extended period of time with the thing unplugged. As you can probably tell, electrical diagnostics are not my strong suit, so what may seem obvious to most people is certainly not for me.

No REM on hand but I do have a spare CTS that I have yet to install. The one that supplies the ECU specifically. I could throw it on for good measure since I already have one. I still have the issue even when it’s warmed up. Does that make the CTS any more or less likely?

Mini bump. Problem is continuing to get worse so I would appreciate some feedback on if the IACV/man gasket hypothesis sounds OK, or some other cause/sensor

Wow, I've made I think 3 separate posts on this same issue. It's come back again so I'll just necro this thread instead of starting another. After putting in my third IACV last November, this issue seemed to have subsided (coincidentally or not). I sort of forgot about it and it was running and starting fine. Sometimes on the first or second crank and very smooth which was unheard of. Anyways, as of a week or two ago, the thing has returned. I finally had enough wisdom to get a video of it: This is a mild case because the needle came back down quite fast. In the past it would stick for minutes or entire trips at a time, driving like the throttle is partially open. Brakes while in drive were barely enough to keep it still. The problem hasn't gotten to that point in this cycle just yet but it's getting there. I had the idle stick at 2100-2200 for 15-20 seconds a few days ago. I've noticed that this issue will creep up in severity, get so bad that the truck is nearly undriveable, then go away again for a few weeks or months. Putting it in reverse/drive usually always fixes the idle RPMs too, which is strange (except in the cases where the throttle sticks). This specifically really makes me think it's the crappy IACV failing me intermittently I'm on my third IACV, with that being said it is a standard ignition unit and three duds in a row is not unheard of. I can get a mopar sensor but it will surely cost me quite a bit of coin, so I don't want to shell out for it if I don't have to. Manifold bolts are all tight, but I still have not replaced the gasket. I have the tip on getting the remflex already. The gasket looks decent from what sticks out from the corners but I know that doesn't mean much for what's actually doing gasket stuff. Throttle position sensor is new as of a few years ago and voltage is set correctly. I haven't checked the voltage recently so I may double check it soon just to make sure. I have a very simplified vacuum system. HO air box with the EGR delete. PCV to intake is fine (new PCV hose and grommet), MAP to TB is sort of sketchy because I have yet to do cruiser's fix on it but I don't think it's leaking at all. Spraying brake clean directly on the hole doesn't mess with the idle at all. FPR to intake is also in perfect shape. I still have the EGR itself on there but I have a brand new gasket and it's all capped off accordingly. When I have some spare coin I'm planning on getting boxyjeep's EGR plate. Brand new TB gasket With all this being said, I'm thinking it either has to be another failed IACV or the manifold gasket. The cyclical nature of this problem is what confuses me, though. Could it be another sensor like the MAP going bad? I wouldn't think so because other than the startup, it drives and idles perfectly (until it doesn't). It really does feel like a vacuum issue or the IACV getting stuck and letting a ton of air in, mimicking a slightly open throttle. At this point I think I may just have to bite the bullet and get a new intake gasket to at least cross that off the list. I just wanted some final opinions before I order the remflex.

Update: I went and double checked the truck and I am a quart low from the time I did the job to now. There is definitely quite a big leak coming from somewhere, it’s just not as obvious like getting dripped on the exhaust made it previously

I don't see why it wouldn't, right? The CPS itself is a pretty simple sensor

From what I can tell, if it's leaking it's certainly not from the same area. The fix definitely did some good as that whole area around the OFA is as clean as when I put it back on. I am still getting a slight oil burning smell (not near what it was a few weeks ago) that I have yet to track down, but at this point it has to be from the valve cover gasket which is an easy enough fix that I just need to find the time for.

only $173 extra to receive your parts a whole two days earlier!

My links and bushings look just as crusty as yours lol. And I agree with dirtycomanche. If you're going through all the work to take em off you might as well replace the whole link. They're not too expensive and I'd bet it'll be the last time it would ever have to be done for the life of the truck.

My friend. I like the way you think lol. Saves me from having to get JB weld and the correct drill bits lol. Honestly sounds like it will be very effective for the amount of effort and cost.

Good idea! Thank you.

As title says. I’ve mysteriously lost my side marker lens twice now. I think there’s something wrong with the headlight bezel trim because that side doesn’t feel right when I’m putting the retaining screws in. Right side is completely fine and I use the same size and thread screws. I don’t want to have to keep getting lenses. Should I just bite the bullet and get a new bezel? Or can somebody give me the dimensions of the screws that they’re using to hold their side marker?

That's some clean bodywork

That almost rivals the dead 2.5 thread that @eaglescout526has in his sig

So clean! Tow mirrors look great

@neohicWow, thanks for all the new reading material! I never took you for the CC archivist

I'm with eagle on this one. It sounds like the action of pushing on the brake is cutting power somewhere so +1 to checking at and around the pedal.

Yep something that’s funny is I made a thread a little while back asking about the eliminator wheel center caps with the part number. Now when you look up that part number, my specific thread is near the top, even if you don’t use any other words but the part number Edit: I am the proud second result if you even just look up "jeep comanche eliminator wheel center caps", first being an ebay listing for them.

Lol my GMC out of my six cars (two of them being VWs!) has by far given me the most issues. And it was nothing but electrical wiring issues. I love that truck but it was an absolute nightmare. I must’ve just been incredibly unlucky picking the truck that I did. My Comanche is by far the most reliable vehicle I’ve owned in comparison

Maybe try the baking soda trick when flushing to see if you can loosen up any clogs in the passages/rad? That did wonders on my 94 C1500 that had buckets of rust and crud in the radiator and passages. I wonder if just putting in a new rad after flushing it would be worth it, at least for peace of mind.

Thank you! And you will absolutely need to use a box end wrench. There is zero room for any sort of ratchet or breaker bar. I tried the breaker bar from the top and from the bottom before I gave up and went to harbor freight. There's just zero clearance, not to mention how little there becomes as you're loosening it. If you were to somehow get a wrench and socket on there, I bet it would get stuck when you back the bolt out enough. So, break it loose with a 5/8 using the 3/4 for leverage, and then finish the rest with the ratcheting wrench (5/8 or 16mm, if you have a RW). It's a long bolt so the RW makes it a lot easier This is the trick. You need to use a wrench that is about 2 sizes larger than the one you're using to remove the bolt. Getting the orientation is a little strange at least for me especially if the wrenches have a bit of offset (because that will change the direction and orientation of the leverage wrench that you need to have), but I just practiced hooking them up a bunch before I took the bolt off. Holding the 5/8 on the bolt while squirming to get the 3/4 hooked on was kind of annoying but once its on there it won't come loose at all. Even though I know how to do it, I still end up having to practice and watch a video sometimes to do it lol. If that makes me a newbie, so be it. I just tend to overthink little things like this Yes, I used the FP 70301 for the big boy, then used an o ring kit that used AS568 sizes. 117 for the little o ring on the bolt, and 219 for the intermediate size o ring on the OFA that mates up with the bolt. There was a tiny bit of clearance on the 117 o ring but it didn't seem to be a problem, just in case you notice it when doing the job yourself.

I assume you're not losing any coolant? If it's the head gasket again I would imagine it won't be long until your radiator runs low and you start having chocolate milk. What kind of 4.0 do you have? Renix?

I was just in for a major scare after my drive! All seemed well until I pulled back into the complex to park and that's when I smelled the burning oil smell again. Not nearly as potent as last time but I felt my PTSD kick in. I quickly parked and checked under to still see no leaks! This is the first time I've driven the truck since I brought it home after the whole leak fiasco on Sunday so in hindsight it's pretty stupid of me not to take that into account To confirm that things are OK and the residual oil just needs to burn off, my OFA is still clean as a whistle. I can at least confidently say that I installed the o rings correctly and I don't have any more leaks coming from that area specifically. I need to do a good powerwashing and degreasing like somebody recommended to see how much damage my RMS and/or VCG is causing. It's kind of unfortunate that I will have to give it a few days for the oil to burn off to really be able to smell test if there's any external oil burning on the exhaust again but at least I didn't make anything worse doing this repair

A leader exhibiting true benevolence! We love you Pete