hgeranium

That looks great. Do you have any weird electrical issues having LEDs in? I used to have LED bulbs in the taillights but they would intermittently go out or not blink when I used my blinkers. I switched back to halogens and my tails work perfectly again.

Thanks! It's a vinyl decal

That is an exact worry of mine! I wanted to clean up the lenses because I noticed how dismally dim they are during the day. I feel the same about the front side marker/turn signal bulbs. Good to see another Oracle supporter. Can you attach any pictures? I also worry about how the taillights actually look. I'm subconsciously worried that they will look too out of place and modern on the truck.

Looking for the chrome 4.0 badge that goes on the tailgate. I know I can find them on eBay but I’d rather support a member, especially if they have extra that they’re trying to get rid of. I’ll even take a 3-D print if anybody does those

Left/right before and after. I did everything by hand because I didn’t want to put that much effort into these old tail lights. They’re already cracked so I knew there’s only so much I can do for them. They certainly look a lot better though. At some point I’m sure I’ll pull the trigger on those key parts repops

It’s raining right now so my normally very faded tail lights look brand new. Knowing what they could look like really makes me want to restore them. Does anyone have any good experiences doing so? Or is it more worth it to buy one of those aftermarket OE sets? Or maybe the Oracle lights?

She's a beaut! Congratulations man

I think its an HO from the PCV but just to confirm is your 4.0 a Renix or HO? How does the vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the throttle body look? I can't tell 100% from the picture but I don't think I even see one. I'm not well versed in the HO vs Renix differences on vacuum but check out the EGR vac lines (should be 2-3? I have mine capped off so I don't remember), fuel pressure reg to manifold, and PCV on the rear of the VC (renix has a vac line for this but I don't know about HO)

Never turn down the opportunity to learn! I'm in the same boat as you with many of these intermediate-to-advanced automotive things but if you have the time (and money) then why not throw your hat in the ring?

Thank you so much! I will DM you with my shipping details

Finally, Jenga with REAL consequences

Good looks! I'll add that to my infinitely increasing internal inventory of acronyms

What the heck is an ISA?

I think we have a certain electrical guru on this very site that could help with this captcha..

Yep, that's actually where I'm moving back to. I bought a starter house there that I'll get to move back into this summer. Thank y'all! Philosophy but I'm planning on using it like any non-specialized business degree. Plus that aggie network should get me pretty far in itself lol

Luckily the state of Texas and Texas A&M hooked me up. No loans and all I’ve needed to do this whole time was pay for books. It pays to be a transfer student!

So is the truck still running rough right now? Also how do the EGR vac lines look? You may have done this already but if it’s still running poorly, you can try to find the source with brake cleaner

This old truck did a great job getting me through college

Since the vac line just kind of sticks into the hole in the throttle body, enough vibrations and enough bad luck can cause it to come loose and leak vacuum or come out entirely. The former and the latter have both personally happened to me. Worth a check

How does the MAP sensor to throttle body vac line look? If you haven't done cruiser's fix to install a threaded tap then the vac connection is a bit dicey

What 89MJ said. The Renix one is what you're looking for

I need a few more days of consistent evidence but I believe I have found the culprit of a problem that has been plaguing me since I bought this truck four years ago. Since it was something intermittent and idle related, it mostly made sense for it to be the IACV. I’ve never been able to find any vacuum leaks. I would replace the IACV and the truck would go back to normal for a little bit. however, the IACV pigtail has always been missing its retaining clip. It just slides in and friction holds it together. I never thought it was an issue because since the connector was pointing down, I figured gravity was also holding it in place. After wiggling around that connector, the high rev starts vanished immediately. I have started the truck eight or 10 times since then and it has started perfectly. So, I bought a replacement pigtail that has a retaining clip and hopefully this should be it. I guess it makes sense that the engine vibrations would move the connector and pins around just enough to ‘unplug’ the IACV. I’m assuming the plug would move out of place after driving, cause issues on startup, then the vibrations would potentially reestablish a connection until the process repeated on the road. I’m also willing to bet that a new IACV seemed to fix the problem temporarily because I would unplug and re-plug the connector more snugly. Hopefully I’m not coming back in a few days to report that the problem has returned, but I absolutely have no vacuum leaks and the CTS looks OK. Plus, this sort of occurrence is the only thing that would explain the intermittence of this whole problem I should’ve used Occam’s razor to check the simplest solutions first, but this sort of thing never occurred to me. Maybe if I had mentioned that the connector didn’t have a clip, somebody would’ve told me way earlier lol.

How’s fuel pressure?