hgeranium

That’s what I thought at first too but I definitely do have vacuum. I’ve got a brand new grommet and hose on there. Like llhat said: you’re saying you drilled out the rear PCV grommet’s hole? And doing that the CCV hose going to the air filter is no longer dripping oil?

Set up normally, the CCV to airbox in renix 4.0s almost always lead to tons of oil in the air box. Cruiser made a fix in the book here regarding it but I've heard it's not a bulletproof solution, so I'd rather do the catch can and not worry about it. I was having to replace my air filter every month or two because of it when I first got the truck. Especially being at 190k my blowby is surely higher than normal

I have a quick question for those with catch cans installed or with knowledge on how they should fit. I'm wanting to hook up a catch can to my CCV hose to eliminate any possibility of oil dripping on the air filter. I have the hose disconnected and letting it vent and drip wherever. Better it smell bad then replace the air filter. I am thinking of going with a catch can like this: Question 1: What will be the best way to route this? Should I go from a) CCV -> inlet side then outlet side -> airbox? Or should I just have it b) go from CCV -> inlet? This particular kit has a little breather filter that goes on the top. I'm not sure which would be more efficacious to my goal or if the former option would still lead to oil coming through the air box but more slowly. There are also other kits that have the option to place steel wool inside the baffle to better hold the debris. This kit in particular doesn't seem to have that so I'm wondering if I can still put in steel wool or it's just a baffle. I'd rather spend a little extra money than save a little for the option to replace the filter element myself. The more expensive ones usually have a petcock to drain the fluid which would certainly justify the price in itself anyways. Question 2: If I go with the latter routing option, what is the best way to deal with the outlet port? Since it's already breathing up top, can I just put in a threaded plug? Or do I need to put in a tap and filter on that as well? It feels redundant at that point but I have no experience with these and would rather be sure.

That looks great. Do you have any weird electrical issues having LEDs in? I used to have LED bulbs in the taillights but they would intermittently go out or not blink when I used my blinkers. I switched back to halogens and my tails work perfectly again.

Thanks! It's a vinyl decal

That is an exact worry of mine! I wanted to clean up the lenses because I noticed how dismally dim they are during the day. I feel the same about the front side marker/turn signal bulbs. Good to see another Oracle supporter. Can you attach any pictures? I also worry about how the taillights actually look. I'm subconsciously worried that they will look too out of place and modern on the truck.

Looking for the chrome 4.0 badge that goes on the tailgate. I know I can find them on eBay but I’d rather support a member, especially if they have extra that they’re trying to get rid of. I’ll even take a 3-D print if anybody does those

Left/right before and after. I did everything by hand because I didn’t want to put that much effort into these old tail lights. They’re already cracked so I knew there’s only so much I can do for them. They certainly look a lot better though. At some point I’m sure I’ll pull the trigger on those key parts repops

It’s raining right now so my normally very faded tail lights look brand new. Knowing what they could look like really makes me want to restore them. Does anyone have any good experiences doing so? Or is it more worth it to buy one of those aftermarket OE sets? Or maybe the Oracle lights?

She's a beaut! Congratulations man

I think its an HO from the PCV but just to confirm is your 4.0 a Renix or HO? How does the vacuum line from the MAP sensor to the throttle body look? I can't tell 100% from the picture but I don't think I even see one. I'm not well versed in the HO vs Renix differences on vacuum but check out the EGR vac lines (should be 2-3? I have mine capped off so I don't remember), fuel pressure reg to manifold, and PCV on the rear of the VC (renix has a vac line for this but I don't know about HO)

Never turn down the opportunity to learn! I'm in the same boat as you with many of these intermediate-to-advanced automotive things but if you have the time (and money) then why not throw your hat in the ring?

Thank you so much! I will DM you with my shipping details

Finally, Jenga with REAL consequences

Good looks! I'll add that to my infinitely increasing internal inventory of acronyms

What the heck is an ISA?

I think we have a certain electrical guru on this very site that could help with this captcha..

Yep, that's actually where I'm moving back to. I bought a starter house there that I'll get to move back into this summer. Thank y'all! Philosophy but I'm planning on using it like any non-specialized business degree. Plus that aggie network should get me pretty far in itself lol

Luckily the state of Texas and Texas A&M hooked me up. No loans and all I’ve needed to do this whole time was pay for books. It pays to be a transfer student!

So is the truck still running rough right now? Also how do the EGR vac lines look? You may have done this already but if it’s still running poorly, you can try to find the source with brake cleaner

This old truck did a great job getting me through college

Since the vac line just kind of sticks into the hole in the throttle body, enough vibrations and enough bad luck can cause it to come loose and leak vacuum or come out entirely. The former and the latter have both personally happened to me. Worth a check

How does the MAP sensor to throttle body vac line look? If you haven't done cruiser's fix to install a threaded tap then the vac connection is a bit dicey