foreman1063

:agree:

Got my pristine fuse block today from an 90 automatic XJ (no clutch MC leaking on it), will be doing the swap this week. Will cut, splice and solder the new box in. The terminals on the original block were very brittle and fragile, they would break off when I pulled fuses. :shake: I did find these after I cut the old fuse block out, oh well. Hows everyone cleaning the black tar form the bulk head connector and are you going back with any king of Dielectric grease? How about he bulkhead connector gasket? Mine got destroyed separating the connector. Any kind of sealant that will seal it up but still let it come apart next time I need to remove?

Test it, it could be a ground or connector problem. A quick test will tell you for sure if it has a dead spot and if it needs adjusting. Pretty easy to do with a multimeter and a couple of paper clips. Plenty of write ups floating around to guide you through it. Might save you some money.

Good call, might just be the case. I was under the dash last night and I did notice the fuse block is mounted upside down. Maybe the results of a past harness swap or modification. :dunno:

Here ya go, sorry for the crappy 2nd picture but I'm not going back out to the shop again in my underwear to take another. :D

"J" is the 10th digit and it has a bracket, I'll get a pic tomorrow. I guess it could have had the mod done to it at the dealer back in the day, like Eagle had done. If it's been modded it was professionally done.

My understanding is that 87 and 88 MJ's had the infamous C101 connector. I have a 88 pioneer that has no such connector. The bracket is on the fire wall above the MC but no connector. The wiring harness looks to be unmolested and stock so I don't think the connector was removed :dunno:. Did some 88's come without the connector form the factory?

Check these out. I've heard nothing but good things about his products (beef) and customer service. Plus he's a local vendor. :thumbsup: http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/TR.html http://www.ironman4x4fab.com/Products/TB.html

Because of the fluid leak, missing cover bolt (It looks like) or because it's a Dana 35? Keep the fluid topped off and it should hold up. Better yet fix what ever is leaking and you won't have to worry about it.

You could probably get the other arms, clean everything up and sell the complete lift kit to a GC owner. Then use that money to buy what you need. RE lift kits don't come cheap. BTW, did they have any Comanche's over at Nines?

Control arms are adjustable so they should work on the front. What happened to the other pair of control arms? Did you find that at LKQ in Durham?

Tryem if they're cheap but that's a stiff tire for a light truck. Let us know how they work for ya.

Gottcha, I was thinking you said bias but just re-read your post and see that I was mistaken.

True but they run a radial with a 3 ply side wall IIRC, not a bias ply, 10 ply.

Your assumption is correct, rough and poor handling.

And don't forget the distributor gasket. Mine was leaking like a sieve, making a huge mess on the whole side of the motor and all over the starter.

Your driving a Comanche. :D As mentioned, valve cover gasket, oil leaking from CCV vacuum lines running down intake on to exhaust, RMS leaking and oil blowing on exhaust, leaking oil pan gasket, leaking timing cover gasket. Get a light and rag and climb under to investigate, it could be one or all of the above.

Hey man, sorry it's been so long but I just got back by the JY today. The guy at the counter couldn't give me specific prices unless I had the parts at the register. He did say that plastic trim ranges from around $7-$20. If you want anything, that's as close as I can tell you without removing parts. If you do want anything I'll just charge the actual shipping, cost of the parts and $20 for gas to get there and back (about 45 minutes away). Let me know, as of today all the interior trim was still there.

Yeah, I verified I was at #1 TDC and the rotor was off one tooth but now I have to replace the distributor before I can try it. Oh well, s#*t happens. Thanks

Yep, it was one tooth off. The worst part is that the distributor hold down ear is now broken off. :doh: I can barely get a wrench on it so not sure how I over tightened it. Guess it's off to the JY for another distributor.

Pulled the distributor today to replace the gasket and clean up some of the gunk around it. I thought I got it re-installed correctly but now it's running like crap. Idles rough and pops when reved up. Will the motor run if the distributor is off a tooth or will it not even start?

Finally got around to fixing the problem. Turns out the oil pan and pick up screen had a bunch of nasty chunks of oily dirt. I cleaned up the pan and pick up screen, replaced the oil pump and RMS, changed O-rings on oil filter adapter and replaced timing chain and gears. Everything is nice and cleaned up and running smooth and quietly. Oil pressure stays between 50-60 PSI now :clapping: It's nice to not have oil pouring out from everywhere gunking everything up. BTW, changed the leaky rear axle pinion seal and cracked fuel filter hose while I was at it. Trying to keep the fluids in the truck instead of under it. :shake:

I'd fix it and drive it. That appears too nice to destroy. You can fin a donor much cheaper than that.

If you run a CV drive shaft you will have to the rear axle pinion angle until the axle pinion points directly at the xfer case yoke.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126261