skidoo_j

I don't think that link works anymore. It hasn't worked for me for several months... I went there to try and view one of the parts catalogs that were hosted there :( it's too bad there were some really useful things there.

That sucks... I just gave one away when i sold my front bumper.. The guy said he didnt want it... I'll see if he still has it...

The ad says it has dual exhaust, but the pictures only show one tail pipe out passenger...

In my area they used to have some gas stations with tanks above ground too. We'd always buy gas from them in the am during the winter and during the summer we'd buy gas at the stations with in-ground tanks. With the in ground tanks the temperature is pretty constant so I doubt there would be any noticeable differences from am/pm purchases.

They had done a "sting" regarding this not to long ago. I think they even had it on dateline. The newer digital pumps were set so 1 gallon, 5 gallons or $5 worth was perfect for price vs volume dispensed as these were the standardized test settings for verification. However, if you ended up needing 5.5 gallons in your car the pump could read 6 gallons and you'd get charged for 6 gallons not 5.5. I don't remember the exact calibration that the pumps were doing, but what was changing was the amount dispensed vs the pump reading, so you wouldn't be able to just print the receipt and compare volume vs price. I always check my mileage before I even start the vehicle. And if it's way off and I havn't been hammering it I'll ask the attendant if they've had any complaints. My father once pumped 13.5 gallons into a snowmobile that only had a "10" gallon tank, the attendant came over and said there must be something wrong with that pump and didn't charge us for the gas we had dispensed in that snowmobile. We then used a different pump for the remaining, the guy however did not put an out-of-order sign on the pump when we left. people have done stuff with meters for years. When working at the power company they must have had 100 different tampered meters on display. Some where people have drilled the glass and messed with gears, others that they'd tried to bypass the meter etc.

I too used Moog Ball joints all around. I rented the ball joint press from autozone and fought with the two cups it came with when we did my brother's xj. When I did my MJ I bought the master cup set at harbor freight. Ended up using a few trimmed soda cans as shims to make the cups fit perfect/centered on the lips of the joints. When you're pressing in your new joints you only want to apply pressure to the edges and get them in straight or you'll fight with the binding and or crush the cap of the joint. here's the set i bought: http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-m ... 66958.html

I cut off the support jig and it mounted right up. :)

Mine does the same thing. I've cleaned the marker light sockets and it fixes it for awhile. I've been debating on redoing the ground for the lights for both front and rear.

During a disagreement with my father on how split washers prevent the bolt from coming un-bolted I decided to do a little research. Needless to say my father and I were both right, the split ring applies pressure to the bolt to increase friction (my theory) but the split is also to dig into the surface of the bolt and the item(his theory). Our argument was over if a regular washer should be used with a split ring. well my research actually shows that regardless split ring washers actually make bolts come undone faster if they receive non-axial motion. watch the videos in the links. made me realize that all the bolts i've broken are because people previous never did the "check all chassis bolts" in the maintenance schd. http://www.boltscience.com/pages/junkertestvideo.htm http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=51.16.37 http://www.boltscience.com/pages/Why_nu ... loosen.pdf

Rear bumper all welded... Only grinding, maybe some fill welds, and painting. Will of course post pics of the whole truck once installed as requested. no the bumper doesn't float. :) They were rotated as it was easier to turn the picture then flip the bumper. end profile

Got the driverside bracket made and installed... Much cleaner then the passenger. The driverside is presentable. It even bolted up easier. Now I start on the bumper itself. 90 degree days in scalding sun is worse then dealing with rain and wind :( The steel gets so hot just sitting in the sun everything gets handled with welding leathers.

The one thing I've decided though is that cardboard is great for transfering bolt lay outs, but horrible for making true templates. It needs to be something a bit more rigid. Although I guess having to grind an 1/16 to an 1/8" off for clearance isnt bad. The spot that upset me the most though is the bottom of the rear bracket, I had followed the entire shackle bracket, but then when it was made into steel the taper is off, I guess I could have screwed up when cutting with the plasma, but I made changes for the driversside template.

Fabing the rear bracket from pictures and fit. I made an 1/8" plate washer to make the mounting plate flush to the shackle bracket. used 2.5" 3/16" tube and 7"x3/16 steel i went past the 4th bolt to possibly weld a piece of angle to apply torsion on the frame or add a bolt in the oblong in the frame later if needed. cardboard templates to transfer the holes to the steel used ball peen hammer to transfer. primed passenger side installed. **edited to change photo host

PM sent with pictures.

Most Junk yards around here do not even have cars, just parts. I know that if you just wrap it in shipping wrap and take it to fed ex it would not be to bad to ship ground. I can just send you 40.00 and you can ship it to me. I know it won't cost more then that. I'll be sending pics over this eve. I havn't looked at it since i pulled it off several months ago. I'll spray some cleaner on it so i can make sure it's not rusted

I'd say excellent. I can take pictures. I can get weight of it tomorrow too so you could check freight cost. I really can't believe you couldn't find one at a junk yard near you though. it's the same one that's on an xj. car-part.com

Why go to the axles from a JK??? I thought TJ were direct bolt on? Is the TJ D44 weaker than the JK or are you wanting the extra width?

I've got one from when i swapped to a rusty's one... but shipping i think would make it not worth while for you. I'm in S. Oregon 97532. if you wanted to do some shipping quotes. I don't think it's all too heavy just bulky

Saddest part of that movie is when the Airedale gets killed. I think that movie was out in the mid 80's.

So did Kaiser brake design the leaf pack? Do you know what information they based it on? I'm curious because I've been unable to find an equation between free arch and installed height (partial load). I would have loved to had M/T equivalents that only netted 3.5" soa lift and were soft. Maybe you could post the build sheet for others? Or maybe what/how they were designed around. What did they set you back?

What brand are those? What lift are they? What load rating? They look like they maybe from Oregon Spring in Portland...? Do you know why the top leaf that is military wrapped is only a half spring? I assume it has to do with them being slung over, atleast that's how the centering pin appears.

Painted and mounted. Rear templates being made. I'm thinking it'd would have to be a boulder for the tabs to catch anything. or near a 60 degree incline. rear to match same lines but not wrap.

A few reasons. The first was so that the front of the truck didnt have a knee catcher. We thought that if the they were in use it would be during recovery, so them being lower would give it more lift. but probably the biggest thing was when tieing them in to the brackets if they were welded to the face there would not have been enough room between the tab and the 2.5" tube to make a solid weld. I don't foresee them providing any clearance issues unless they'd snag on something, but if there were the case I think it would be beyond the capabilities of the truck. Those are ledge grabbers for sure on rocks. There probably fine on soft terrain. Those will hamper a climb well before its beyond the rigs ability. Bumper does look good. I guess it's possible to snag on something. I'd say they're still higher then the ones on an arb winch bumper because of the angles and size. I plan to place the ones on the rear on the vertical as the hitch will protrude past the tabs. Although they may end up on the angle as well because i'm trying to figure out the best way to inset the license plate so it doesn't look like an after thought.

A few reasons. The first was so that the front of the truck didnt have a knee catcher. We thought that if the they were in use it would be during recovery, so them being lower would give it more lift. but probably the biggest thing was when tieing them in to the brackets if they were welded to the face there would not have been enough room between the tab and the 2.5" tube to make a solid weld. I don't foresee them providing any clearance issues unless they'd snag on something, but if there were the case I think it would be beyond the capabilities of the truck.

After lots of research looking over any and all fabricated bumpers I started templating my bumper out of cardboard. I wanted it to be unique and not just have a tube across the front. It has a receiver up front and I'm starting on the rear this week. Here's some pic's of the process... I did buy the frame reinforcements from jcroffroad, and had fitment issues with the steering brace. Link to Hosted photos. Fender Cut: Fitting the wrap templates: wrap around welded: need to fill in voids in welds prior to paint and finish. Will post pics once painted installed and then rears... *edited to change title