skidoo_j

If you still have stock lines it's possible that the override line from the front valve finally opened. If i recall when bleeding our trucks you have to undo the weight sensor arm get it fully open. and bleed the rears, then open one of the front bleeders and then bleed the rears again by pedal pumping. When there is pressure loss in the front it should route brake fluid through the second line that runs to the back. when i did it i just off the weight sensing vlv as best i could. otherwise ???

0.3ohms well there are three wires red, black, grey... black has 0.3 ohms to ground red carries 12v during initial key on grey wire i called sync.... when truck running voltage readings in prev post above.

Scanner should show the O2 sensor switching rapidly from rich to lean constatly. If not, a faulty O2 sensor will stay "lean" and ECU will default to a richer fuel map. If you had things get worse after cleaning/touching the C101 and you've got 3 ohms of resistance in your sensor grounds, the sensors can be fine but the ECU isn't seeing proper values. Does the idle change if you wiggle the harness along the valve cover, between the MAP and C101? Here's a sensor ground test for you: Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too. You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well. Revised 05/03/2012 Cruzer What sort of voltages should the sync wire be fluctuating between? I have a new bosch 02 sensor and am also trying to chase down a ghost in my idle. I measure 1.6 ohms across the red/black (heater) when connected. I get 12v across the red/black when key turned to on for a a few seconds. black to ground has .3 ohms... so my wiring to the o2 sensor checks out fine iirc. I back probed the sync wire and at idle I range as low as .65 (instant) and spike at 5.03 and it seems to cycle between 2.3+-.5 to 4.9+-.5v dc with it rarely being lower then 1volt when giving gas arround 2200 rpm it drops then starts to stabilize 2-3.5 volts back and forth. it's definitly cycling, but i though the voltages were to be much lower, i thought i should see .6 and 2.5 as a high. is my O2 sensor incorrect for a renix era?

So how bad was it?

because the stock u beam arms already twist so much? So would that imply that other manufactures that make them rigid or with a jamb nut would be stiffer?

I'm looking to acquire some adjustable upper control arms and of course started at JKS. However I think they may have changed their design lately and it brings questions regarding street driving. Their adjustable control arms are not locked in place, so you set them to length then grease them and they're allowed to rotate to increase articulation and reduce prevent twisting. So my question is does anyone have this style, have they always been this style, and did you notice any uncomfortable road handling? Currently I have stock uppers, rusty's adj lowers.

I looked in the fsm and parts lists and the 2.5 is listed with a different part number then the 4.0 for both standard and auto. they very well could be the same though... the procedure to calibrate them is the same. so unless it's size or mounting location i'd assume it would work.

Well it's not a 5 speed so it isn't that either. Its an auto on the column. Thanks. my taillight issue was the metal clip in the fuse panel had broken so even though the fuse was good it only made contact about 60% of the time once i found this out I put a drop of solder on the fuse blade. sanded it flat and stuck it in. my light all work well. could be similar... If you pull your carpet you'll find a plug behind the drivers seat that has the rear light loom and fuel pump power. You can disconnect it there and test to see what is getting sent to the back easier... would also eliminate any potential faults from there back.. and the plug for the head lights/front turns is located driverside between the air box and head light. would eliminate any faults or shorts caused by plugs. and you could see if powers going through. to the plugs.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.pdf

here's a link to a renix fuel system manual. Keep in mind it has some differences with the wiring schemes i've found vs my 89. But tells you how to test most sensors. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... manual.pdf

Re TPS so your reference voltage is 5.33v? it's to be set at 15% of reference Voltage.. I doubt it has anything to do with the crappy idle.... I too am having some idle issues, but almost the reverse of yours. I've replaced every sensor with new, and cleaned every ground. what happens on mine is the idle will not come down unless i strain the motor at a stop. Your gear switch may have issues. (you said you had an auto) there's a switch or sensor that tells it it'sin gear maybe that's why you were having issues. Is your IAC stepper motor known to be good? It's possible it has a dead spot, but that would usually just cause a very high or low idle not erratic or horrible sounding. have you gone back to basics.... Pulled plugs and examined them. checked spark wire resistance. rotor, cap, stator (i think that's what it's called located under the rotor has three wires that go to it.. tells the truck whats firing) , fuel filter, compression.

http://roseburg.craigslist.org/pts/3018853669.html If anybody texts the guy let him know about CC.

Hauled the dredge. Doesn't look like i got anything worth jumping up and down ove. Gave the comanche a bath. Put tire wax on the rubber. Cleaned out the cab and cleaned up some of the wiring.

The cherokee fender flares work in the front but not the back. They have 2 different part numbers: 5501 3612-3 for XJ 5501 3614-5 for MJ I also found this post by pete showing the size difference. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f53/coma ... es-612972/ I've seen rustys collection, thanks for the suggestion. Really hoping to find another OEM set from somebody who is upgrading to bushwackers. Well the aftermarket 2 door ones must fit the rear with out trimming then. because they sell the sets as 2 door xj / comanche good luck with your search for new.

did you try rusty's off road... Their customer service has dramatically improved in the last 5 years give them a call. They sell slightly over sized ones for the two doors with minimal trimming. I would think theirs that look more stock might work as bushwacker 2door sets are said to fit the comanche. You might have to replace all four so it matches better. I've not compared them but have you looked at the OEM stock 2 door cherokee fender flares. maybe you could get a set that way with a little work.

I feel like a moron now... I never knew I had an accessory function. My previous ignition switch must have been way out of adjustment or had significant issues. I remember trying all sorts of things to get to an accessory position. and nothing. With the new switch installed i can get the accessory position on, but it must be slightly out of alignment as I can't just turn the key from accessory to lock to turn everything off i have to go past then come back.

I have an 89 with a tilt wheel and there's no way you can turn it past the point when the key will remove whether you push in or pull out or just twist.

So recently I replaced my ignition switch and learned that the actual switch it's self has an accessory position. Has anybody modified their key cylinder to allow the accessory position to function? Maybe mines a freak and everyone else has an accessory position already.

End results: The fusible link that supplies power to the ignition switch broke or burned out. I think maybe broke to just a few strands then burned, but regardless I'd already purchased a new ignition switch and had the wires disconnected to chase my power issues so I installed a new switch just encase it caused my problem. I had to go to Napa to get a replacement fusible link in 18 gauge. my brakes and hazard lights were not working because one of the contacts in the fuse panel was missing part of the spring. so I added a dab of solder to the fuse blade and sanded it flater so it would make contact. As It's a major pain in the @$$ to get behind our fuse panels. Anyone have a resource for a fuse panel for under the hood that takes the fusible link fuses, and what amp fusible fuse corresponds to what gauge fusible wire..

So i found that i had no constant power at the ignition switch. I then ran a tracer on the 12v red and found that a fuseable link looks like it broke, not burned right off the starter relay. cut it and contacted it and I have life in the truck, however i still do not have brake lights or hazards. I have turn signals just no brakes or hazards. i switched the two clickers and both work with the turn signals, and all fuses are good. suggestions on chasing down this one would be great. oh and can i replace a fuseable link with an inline fuse?

Running a jumper from the battery to the starter solenoid helped because it bypassed the entire ignition system. My battery posts are clean, and both the ground and positive wires have been replaced recently.

well i went to the autoparts store and picked one up. looked in the fsm where it was, unpluged the original with out removing it, plugged in the new removed the "set Pin" and nothing. I can move the switch through all positions and it's still dead. nothing comes on or activates. No brake lights, no windshield washer, no horn, no dash illumination, no gauges, no turning over, no blinker, no hazards, no fan, no radio. can turn on head lights, and markers, and make truck turn over by jumping the starter wire but no fire. HELP!!!!! Is there a main fuse to the ecu??? a way to test if the ecu is bad??? anyother electrical components exhibit this behavior??? ICM? maybe a fuseable link causing all my issues?

Scenario: I was at the bank at drive through for a good stretch 15 min at idle. Coolant temp never moved. It's about 90 degrees today. Driving home from bank and plah. Truck dies. Tach hit zero. Put key in ign with door open i hear the buzzer. I turn the key and nothing. gauges don't move. If i pull the high beam lever i get High beams and can turn on head lights, but no turn signals, no hazards, no dash lights. Do have door lights working. connected a jumper from battery to starter cranks over like mad! Checked fuse-able links by battery non feel soft. I got a tow to a friends house and now am trying to trouble shoot it. key does nothing. the ecu was hot to the touch... all fuses in the box tested fine. I'm at a loss unless the ignition fried....//// help.

That was Forced Cold Air. High flow with out a filter by the looks too. It's awesome. Were those top of the line hinges on the same rig? It looks like they spared no expense they even painted them to match.

how long did that take?