Wildman

That would be from your alternator or voltage regulator. The idiot light show when the battery is not being charged, and it gets brighter as you use more voltage, or taking more drain off the battery. If the light remains on, your alternator is not charging, and your actually running the truck off the battery, that is until the battery goes dead. So......if your home.....don't drive it, you'll brake down some where and be pushing the truck home :eek: A quick check is to start the truck, and pull the positive connection off the battery post, if the truck died, it's your alternator.

I don't know if this would help you now.......But....... http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoRearMain.htm I'll agree that dropping the axle is the way to go, supporting the frame up high, and disconnecting the shocks and sway bar links. I know I read some where's where you can disconnect the oil pump, and that will give you addition room to slide the pan out the back, but the last one I did, with dropping the axle, gave it more than enough room to drop the pan. change the RMS, new one piece gasket, and a new oil pan.

There should be 2 screws holding the fuse box to the inside fire wall, and one "bolt" from the engine compartment, thru the connector into the back of the fuse box, IIRC it takes a 1/4" drive socket. I would be better to remove the fuse box and inspect it for "hidden" damage.

And.......if you want a little more details.......

Yea......I changed it :roll:

Ah.....yea.......there's only 1 "m" and 1 "e" :teehee: When you get over 25 posts, then you'll be 'able to spell Comanche'.

:agree: Firefox is the only way to surf :D

I'll agree that any MJ for $400 and running is a good deal :brows: Unless the engine is really shot, and you feel it needs rebuilding, the option of dropping a low mileage used 4.0 would be a much better choice money wise. And there are ton's of 4.0 out there, with prices ranging from $250-$450. Converting from a stick to automatic, can be a real major project, not only the wire harness are different, the pedals, and a couple of sensors need to be changed, like the TPS. Another option is finding a XJ in the '87-'90 Renix era, and using that as a donor......that way, you have your good MJ, your $400 MJ, and your saving 2 MJ's :D Just about everything from the back of the doors forward on a XJ and the MJ are interchangeable ;) Including the doors and glass, and the windshield, there another source for your glass. I'll leave the lift answers to the lift experts ;) Oh......and welcome to the CC :nuts: oops........wrong emotion......... :waving:

Yea, I had the same problem.........so I got spell check loaded up :D Oh.......about your 'shut' off problem.......I'll second the CPS. If you went thru and checked everything, like the fuel pressure / pump, and checked the ignition system.......it would make sense to check / replace the CPS. Here's a link to the sensor's, the CPS is near the bottom of the page, and there is a 'quick' check on it.

If that's 'real' sea foam.........Where's all the smoke :dunno: :teehee:

If you had these bearing replace a year ago, I would side with Pete on this one, replace the entire D30 axle with a used / JY one, and you'll be way ahead of the game, $$ wise. If your bearing are going that fast, there's a major problem with your D30. I replace bearing in my '89 2 years ago, and 15k added to the clock, and I used a bearing puller, and heated the new bearing to slip right on, and didn't need a press to do this......although it would have been a little easier :roll: Also if you go this route......replace all the axle seals at the same time. This article covers upgrading to the larger U-joints on a D30, but it will give you an idea on what's involved with replacing the seals, and the bearings ;)

Yes, you should have the TV cable on your 2.5 TBI. Check THIS link, and it might show you a little better the set up on both the 2.5 ad the 4.0. I wish I had a picture of the front/top of the engine, you will see the bracket and cable on top of the intake manifold, just in front of the Throttle body, with a "cable" running across the valve cover, down the right side of the engine - back to the transmission. When you pop the hood, you can see the TV cable from 10 feet away, it's that noticeable, sitting on top of the engine. This is the easiest first check / fix for the AW4, if your in the 200K mile club, then it could be time for a new transmission. There are other "checks" to go thru. If you having a problem with finding the TV cable, then just maybe, you should have a shop check out the transmission. Oizarod115 is right, just about every automatic transmission has the TV {Throttle Valve} cable ;)

Here's a link to a zip file that cover the steering column / ignition switch that should have the info your looking for. http://www.lunghd.com/Downloads_and_Lin ... Switch.zip

That's what I found the hard way too......it's just better to get everything at once, and replace it all, bleed it one time.....and your done, and hopefully done right. Watch that flare tool from Lowe's, that's only for a single flair, water lines, not the Double flair that's needed and legal for brake lines.

Re-reading your original post........I assume your asking if a "newer" Cherokee, like what, '91-'96 or '97-02 would have the 'same' rear brake lines as a '86 MJ (as in your sign) NO......even the Renix era rear brake lines are different, except the axle lines them selfs. BUT!!!! :eek: ...........This is one item {Brakes in general} that You, me, or anyone should Never use, Used part on :eek: Serious..........If your finances are holding you back, to buy some brake lines, even off the shelf stock lines, with the hollow nuts attached, then maybe you should park the MJ until the funds are available to at least replace the rotted out line, or do the proper 'front to rear' line replacement, and replace what ever else is needed, IE: wheel cyl's, shoes, hardware, soft lines. I know, once you start replacing one line, on a '86, that's 23 years old, you will find other problems, and that's what I've said before, just plan on replacing everything at once, in other words......'re-built' the entire existing brake system. It's one thing to get the truck running, and going down the road, like you need fuel, spark, and air for the thing to run........and once it's running, and clipping along the highway............how do you stop it???? If your drivers floor is rotted out, you'll be fine, cause that's how Fred Flintstone stopped his car :D I think others will agree, that Used brake parts are out, used brake fluid is out, used brake lines are out. I mean........if your started went, and you re-placed it with a used one, that's one thing.......but used brake lines??? No, and I'm wondering if the JY would even sell them to you??? :hmm: If you think I'm harsh or off the wall on this, fine, but, I really don't want to read your next post in the Pub on how you when flying down the CO Mountain at 80 mph with no brakes, and you finally stopped rolling when you hit the fence at the Mexico border :roll: I live far from you, so the chance that you'll plow in to my rear end is slim, I just have to deal with the other idiot's on the road around here :roll: You should use "flair" wrenches on the hollow nuts, and fittings, cause the standard open end wrenches only 'hold' two sides, and the chance of rounding off the fitting heads is very high. As far as cost for this........a complete brake job, lines and all from the front to the rear should be under $200 for all the parts, including drums if you need, and maybe under $125 if your drums are usable now. That would be less that the bus ticket to get you back from where ever you stopped coasting from........or less that what your insurance rates would increase next year :brows: Just replacing the rotted out line now........maybe what......$25??? Stopping where you want to stop..........Almost Priceless.

cocco - So that we don't bore the Floridians with our talk of snow.......Click here for the under carriage pictures. The width between the frame mount is 32-3/4"

Ya know.......I like this idea :D :thumbsup: Wondering how it would look with an additional cross bar with the one with the light mounted :hmm: Oh......and I don't think there a limited on how many posts you can make, so keep them ideas coming :typing:

Will do......I'll get over to the shop today, and get you some pictures and measurements. Post them up tonight. I know the Meyers plow mounts on the out side of the "frame" at the same locations if you have OEM tow hooks, the same 2, 1/2" bolts thru the frame on each side. When I moved the plow from the '88 to the '89 with the tow hooks, I found this out ;) Your drawing looks very close to what you would need, but I think when you see the pictures, you'll realize something, that if you mount the 'plates' on the frame, the lower, cross section where the plow's A-frame mounts, is bolted to the side plates, and that will give you the "removable" feature that your looking for. I'm sure this was Meyer's way of making one A-frame mount, and various vehicle frame mounts :roll: I agree, if your lifted enough, you should not need the plow lights, but if you find that the plow blocks your head lights, you can add the lights latter, and if you do have this on the road, you need to address the turn signals being blocked by the plow. When I raise my Snoway, the top of the plow comes up to the top of the hood, and I'm sure the Meyer's would be about the same.......if you blade is 24" high. One feature the Meyer's has, is the pump unit is mounted to the upper loop with hitch pins, and can be removed when not in use, but also is very easy to be remove by other's and if you seen the value of the pump unit, you will remove it when your not using it :roll:

Yea, no problem ;) Bring it by the shop tomorrow around 8:30 :D I just mapquest it, and it's only about 4 inches on the map :brows:

Drill / easy out......maybe a little heat to brake the rust weld. Chase it with a tap.

Sorry......I was thinking of a 4.0......but I just cross checked the part # and it's the same......for a 2.5 or 4.0. FOUR SEASONS Part # 85180 $12.81 And Advance Auto parts show it in store stock, around me, so it should be a store stock item in your near by auto parts store.

If the old one is not leaking, possibly go with the HO thermostat housing, and make it a permanent fix :dunno: http://info.rockauto.com/RB/902-306-003.jpg

:shake: Only from some one in Florida :roll: Well.......I lived on a farm for many years, and I even bought the farm........I have plow furrows before, but I think were all talking about SNOW. That the "white" stuff you see on the trucks, you know......the stuff Santa Claus lives with.......runs the sleight in........has a beard that looks like snow????? Not the kind of snow "powder" your thinking of :razz: And......everyone is getting their SNOW plow on for the upcoming season, you know, up north, we have 4 seasons, not 2 like Floridians' have. :shake:

Think of it this way-- The difference between night and day :roll: Every thing between the fuel pump, and the hood latch needs to be changed out.

:cheers: