Eagle_SX4

Found this picture on Google. But I have always thought they look great with black inserts

I also ran a carb on the 4.0 in my Eagle with all stock 4.2 liter ignition. It should all swap between the 2 motors.

Tackled the leaking windshield 2 weeks ago. I have seen pictures of worse windshield frames luckily most of it was just surface rust that came off with an abrasive bristle wheel. I did have to weld up one pin hole. It was a pin hole into the cowl and not into the cab thankfully. I then put a few coats of por-15 on then got the windshield reinstalled. If you notice you can see that my dash was painted black some time in the past and it used to be blue. Wishing it still was. Black is nice but I like the blue better. All the plastics in the cab have also been repainted but the door cards and arm rests are actually black. I also got a hold of some 97+ fenders so that the front header will look like it actually was meant to be there. Just need to get my truck paint matched. Then paint and install the fenders. Other news I got a TrueTrac in the mail so hopefully soon I will be able to regear the axles to 4:10. I already have everything else I need for the rear just need to get bearings and shims for the front.

Getting the Eagle ready for winter. Got the studded snow tires put on today and new front rotors and pads. Turns out the brakes are the same on the Comanches and Eagles. Haven't done much else I did put a small amp in hoping to double the output of the radio but so far I don't think it is any better. I still need to figure out how to tune it properly.

I think that you would also need to add a notch in the range sector (no. 83 on the diagram). Or modify it in some manner.

Just read through the manual and that "pill" isn't mentioned in there but I think there is a slot in-between the two shift rails and it goes in there.

I found a link to the manual and lots of NP229 docs. https://oljeep.com/edge_tcase.html This website has lots of useful info.

If I remember correctly that is the detent ball to prevent you from putting the transfer case into 2-low. With some modifications you can remove it to get 2-low. When I rebuilt mine I had a factory rebuild guide. I will look for it when I get home tonight.

I still haven't figured out how it changes the braking but that is how it was set up from the factory.

When you get into the AX15 double check the shift forks. I bought a spare AX15 to rebuild so my truck wouldn't be down for more than a day. The previous owner said that it liked to pop out of first gear. There was a lot of slop in the shift forks. I replaced all of them. It hasn't popped out of gear since I finished rebuilding and swapped it in to my truck.

The arm should be about the 2:45 position not 7. Here is a thread I started on that.

I finally got the rear brakes fixed on my truck. After putting new drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and new hardware on the back. The brakes were constantly dragging and with my temp gun they reached 400 degrees F. Which then hardened my drums they turned blue and gold. The problem I found out after much trial and error was the brake shoes. The friction material was put on in the wrong spot on the shoes. Causing the wheel cylinders to over extend and not return when the brake pedal was released.

I can verify that the Eagle's vacuum shift mechanism is the same as the jeep one. When I swapped a 229 into my eagle everything bolted right up and works great.

I can see what you are talking about in the photo. I haven't actually seen any bench seat ones in person. Didn't know there was much difference. I just thought the bench seat ones might be longer.

I pulled some out of a Cherokee in the junkyard. The ones in the Cherokees are for bucket seats but should be close enough for what you want.

I have actually had the wires break off at the brake pedal switch twice now. Double check for broken wires on the brake pedal switch.

Thought it would be possible to rebuild the engine without pulling the block but haven't seen it done before. Good job at getting it back on the road

Have you checked the condition of the bulb sockets? Any visible corrosion? When I got my truck the front turn signal sockets were corroded and didn't work correctly. Maybe the sockets are to blame? I cut the old ones off and soldered in some "new" ones from the junkyard and everything is working great now.

Yeah I had some left over after I rebuilt an automatic transmission and I figured since they use auto trans fluid it would be just fine.

The same thing happened to me when I rebuilt the NP229 I put in my Eagle. I had some sticky transmission assembly grease I used to put all those roller bearings back in place.

Thanks got the how to written up and edited the links. Here it is.

For those of you interested here are some close up pics of the alignment tool.

I could not find an answer any where on what the correct rod length was for the height sensing valve. So I was lucky enough to find an alignment tool on eBay(part number KENT MOORE TOOL J-35853-2). Here is how to properly set up your brake valve to the correct position with an empty bed. Without using the alignment tool. See this thread on making a new rod. I used a metal ruler from a combination square and a digital angle finder. I removed the rod and put the alignment tool in place. I also set my angle finder to 0. Hanging off the side of the mounting bracket for the valve. Next I adjusted the rod length for the correct position of the valve. I removed the alignment tool and measured the angle of the flat were the alignment tool indexes on the cam. As you can see the angle is just about 45 (44.5) degrees. Which is the proper angle for Cam to be in. The bushing and arm get pressed on the valve together and are not timed to the cam itself so the angle of the arm can't be trusted which is why my arm is pointing up and not parallel with the axle like many have suggested. In this last photo you can see the flat used the align the cam. That is where you need to place the straight edge to find the angle of the cam. In this thread you can see the inside of the valve and see the cam I am referring to.

I got the alignment tool in the mail and am working on a write up show how to align the arm properly without the tool. Just wondering how to link other threads in to my post with out using the url?

Found this in the local classifieds for $900. '85 Cherokee 2.5 liter, manual trans, 4x4.