speeding_infraction

Don't have to tell me twice

I would think that both the LS and the stroker will outlast the eco boost. I'd go with the LS if I was in your position, especially because it's so easy to add power later if you want. I would think that the LS would also be the cheapest to replace.

Well the hesitation is gone, not sure about the other two. Is there any way to test what the iac is doing when the truck is running?

All the gear and all the power. Haha. Not sure if it's the best option but I'd like to see how you manage a 2.3 Ecoboost swap. That would unlock the door to the bigger Ecoboost engines. Has this been done before?

Ok that would explain it, P.O. deleted the EGR.

Anyone know what this is for?

So the CTS in my thermostat housing isn't factory?

Where is the harness side for the CTS supposed to come out?

There's a couple other empty plugs as well. Anybody know what these go to? Right by the air box/ballast resistor Located just in front of driver's side engine mount.

Noticed an empty plug on the firewall by the MAP sensor, IAT was unplugged. Not sure who worked on this previously but I'd like to speak to them😡

Sorry, should have clarified. I want to put a 4.0l bellhousing on an r series tranny. But if Marlin can rebuild my AX15 and have it hold a decent amount of power than I will just go that route.

Haha. Just want to confirm some things. Basically an AX15 tailhousing and bellhousing can bolt on to any r series trans from Toyota? 150, 151, 154? And the Toyota input shaft will need changed to a jeep input shaft, correct? Lastly, what are the differences between the 150 and 151?

5 and 6 were backwards. Might have helped, need more miles to confirm.

I'm going to call Marlin Crawler and Novak tomorrow and ask about tailhousings and input shafts. Should be able to get some conclusive info.

Thanks, I will check that later. Do you think doing any of the tips I've mentioned above would help?

Thanks all. I will do some research and follow up

It will hesitate up to about 3k and then all the power comes back. It revs great when in neutral

Would two crossed injectors (or more) cause these issues? When I replaced them with skankfoot injectors I didn't label the plugs and I'm wondering if thats why I'm having these problems. Cruisers tips that might relate to the issue that I haven't done: 7, 9, 12, and 13 Please help, thanks in advance

After some research on this company Speedtek, it appears that they aren't the best to deal with, but the question remains. What's breaks first on this transmission?

I've been looking around the interwebs trying to find upgraded AX15s and/or good ways to make the transmission stronger. During my search, I found this: https://speedtekautoracing.com/products/jeep-ax-5-close-ratio-uprated-1000nm-transmission-gearset could anyone speak to the reliability of this website? I also discovered nitride treatment, which is basically heat treating everything and hope it holds (according to my calculations, max input should be around 4-500 hp). The reason I'm looking for upgrades is because I want to retain 4wd for traction during launch and I am not looking to run a divorced tcase. I also want a 5 SPD. I'm planning on building a high power 4.0 (north of 400hp NA, with a turbo coming later) and need something to put behind it.

And I would venture that the block is not the weak point, especially at only 4.6l. I think with properly tuned efi and a bigger cam you could make North of 1200hp

FWIW, I've never replaced the setup on my truck (internal slave) and I've had it over year. Could be a fluke tho

They are both internal slave.

Btw I have two 4wd AX15 cores and an np 231 j t case that may need inspection if you need. I am local (poverty bay area) so lmk.

^^^^ love the hood!