jage

Just change your shackles any time you want to put something in the bed. :rotfl2:

so, No, XJ brackets won't fit...

limit schmemit...

worked for me just fine. cut the brackets off the bench, cut the brackets off the XJ seats, a few bolts and they fit perfect on the MJ floor studs. there ar spot welds next to the rivits in both sets of brackets so becareful taking them off or you'll ruin them.

Actually the atlas sits against the floor completely. It's clocked to match the floor and with the stock crossmember (which I had to shave 1.5" or so to fit) it is snugged right against the floor. I thought it would be run cooler further away and put drop spacers in to get some clearance - ripped my tranny mount in half. So I took out the spacers and put it back against the floor and that's where it's going on the MJ too. The problem is the new crossmember is only 2" wide so If I cut 1.5" out to clear the tcase there won't be much left.

Ok, on the skyjacker install the subframe has two tabs on each side that hold this: It's 2" square. The problem is the section marked off in yellow (above) would go straight through the yellowish part (below) of the Tcase here: Any brilliantly easy ideas on what I should do? ... um... besides cutting the corner off the Tcase...

Actually I think a lot of the MJ and XJ problems are track in- even with an undercoating like my truck had the salt/water that was tracked in and left sit in pools in that thick thick carpet seemed to be the problem. If you look around the surface rust the surface on the inside is more extensive. Are you sure it's salt? I've heard a lot of places don't use salt anymore. I've also heard that Indiana gets it's salt free courtesy of the big 3 auto makers... so who knows. I do know that even my 2000 TJ was rusting after the first winter here. Nothing is safe! Here's my MJ floor made out of random pieces of steel patchworked: I used JB weld on the red arrows and Black Silicone on the green arrows. More black silicone went here...you can see the angle I used against the outside frame rail to support the floor. And some half dried up herc makes it all look halfway decent:

What would this accomplish that an overdrive gear wouldn't?

Let's see, I used: Air Cutoff Disk (~3") Air Recriprocating Saw (tiny blade)* Angle Grinder Air Hammer Crowbar Hammer Plyers *This thing is awesome and I highly recommend one if you don't have it (went through the supports like butter):

this isn't quite what I was looking for: http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=35&highlight=single+double

My rollpin was rust welded to the hinge. Never got it out but was able to cut it. I'd recommend cutting and then drilling if it's this bad.

As I understand Tcase drop is to improve driveline angles in short shaft vehicles- so that shouldn't be an issue. I'd say SYE because you're increasing your travel, and the DS may slip out of the tcase. I've seen it happen on a YJ on the trail. Not the worst thing I've ever seen so you can probably get by without it if you want to be cheap- do it if it falls out. Axle shims are for driveline angle as well, so if you're welding new perches you don't need to do this. One codicil to all this- if you do double-cardan when you do the SYE the pinion should align differently than if you do single. I think single is matching angles from Tcase to DS and DS to Pinion and double is point the pinion at the Tcase. But don't quote me... it's somewhere in one of these threads.

Here ya go... not sure the bumper sticker will help with the camo:

That ride is tits. Needs some bigger meats though. For your manche K&N filter instead of the airbox and put in a throttle body spacer. Maybe treat yourself to a paint job and/or sprayin bed liner. A winch is always good, and then even without turning it into a offroad beast you can play without worries. Optima battery, on board air... maybe put a 97-up XJ front end on it if you're really feeling randy. I don't know what your MJ is like so hopefully that gave you some stuff to daydream about doing!

Make sure you axle ratios are the same. (o.k. you already said this) You probably already know this but if the front is 4.1 the rear must be 4.1 or 4.11 also. 3.54 or 3.07 or anything else and you cannot drive in 4wd until you get one regeared. There probably isn't a brake proportion valve on the XJ axle. This is a lever that increases the rear brake power when the bed is loaded. Those are the only things other than what's already been said. I am putting an XJ axle on my MJ as well. Let me know how it goes.

Ah, I spoke too soon. I followed this with the passenger side and then went to put the subframe on the driver side- and guess what? The highlighted part had to come out: (Note the small corner in the upper right- you can see this better in the result version) The result (final I hope) Driver Side: Passenger: I know the silver paint makes it hard to see but it was the handiest can of rustoleum. These photos are before painting the cut metal the second time. And for reference sake here is the uncut state: http://www.jage.com/offsite/comancheclub/project/liftpieces/mount.jpg

OK, so I finally stopped conjecturing and decided to cut and fit the subframe for the skyjacker. I figured I'd have to cut and I did. For those wondering- this is about what needs to be removed to fit the Skyjacker sub-frame past the MJ LCA mount bracing: The only issue I see is that the subframe uses the 2nd and 4th tranny crossmember mount holes and my crossmember was in the 1st and 3rd. I think this is from it being a 2.5L, so the supplied crossmember is probably going to have to be modified. It looks like it will hit the transfer case regardless of front/back position so I'll probably just have to custom make one. It also looks flimsy, just a ~2" square tube with a plate, and offers no protection so hopefully I'll come up with something better in the process. (Lower front of this pic:)

oooooh... I want to see pics of the TJ!

Nice looking. I like the color.

I understand. I once had a laptop like that where the FN key was swapped with the CTRL key on the left there, and at the time I was programming - typing all day and using lots of keyboard commands (CTRL+C, CTRL+V, CTRL+SHIFT+3, etc). I actually took out the FN key and rebuilt the CTRL key over it because otherwise all day long I was doing FN+C "Damnation!", FN+V "Son of a..." I remember having to find the FN keytop to turn in the laptop at work... :hateputers: I hate stoopid keyboard designers.

And sumbody doesn't like the start menu I see...

Yeah, Slick only has two fingers - HOW DOES HE HOLD THE SHIFT DOWN AND TYPE? Maybe he's deaf.

Do what you like, but you can't have the banana- I'm just kidding- upload away.

I know the fronts are the same - what about the rear?

Tricky tricky, read closely - that's a 2.8L!