VorTekX

Is there any methods/ products you have in mind to get into the frame? I was only going to use por-15 on the outside.

Wanted to coat my frame with POR-15 ever since I bought my truck so it could handle harsh New England winters, curious to see if anyone else used it and saw good long lasting results after application.

Finally decided to take a look at my parking brake after neglecting it for over 2 months. I was lucky to find that it snapped at the rear mounting bracket and that it wasn't the pedal assembly. That being said, I ordered a replacement cable 2 months prior without looking at what had gone wrong with it: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=302886&cc=1181584&pt=1696&jsn=8. Upon further inspection, this cable looks like it's only long enough to go from the rear wheels to that connecting bracket. I need a cable to go from the cab to that bracket. I believe that this is the one I need https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.phppk=302885&cc=1181584&pt=1696&jsn=10. Regardless, the cables going to the wheel hubs were in awful condition as well, so I might as well replace them. The new cable has a very long spring at the end of it, something the one on there already doesn't have. Does that spring attach to the double bracket or does it go towards the wheel? Don't want to order another cable only for it to be the wrong one....

It's in PA for 3100. Pretty good deal https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1391016228044642/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Af83e5a1d-5f9d-440d-bbb5-c026e4654dc4

Alright, stupid question. I'm installing the jeep cables upgrade kit tomorrow and was curious if the jeep will turn over without the headlight harness plugged in

Someone on here designed a replacement handle. I attached the CAD files here. It's a flat part, all you would need to do is cut them out en masse. Then the customer could bend them into shape. No one in the vender section is doing this as far as I can tell. latch handle jeep.PDF mjhandle02.dxf

Would it be worth it to throw them in as is and see how my truck runs? I think I have the stock injectors in currently

How would I be able to test the flow rate?

These end in 943, 24lb ends in 947. Regardless, from what you said it's probably cheaper just to buy a new set of 749's

My rear liners are horribly rusting so I was just gonna weld in sheet metal when I had the chance. It's not the most visible spot on the truck anyway.

So I was digging around behind the seat in my MJ and I found a box of 6 ford 5.0 injectors. I forgot I had them and then remembered the previous owner just said they were "dirty injectors". I had read some threads saying these ones worked with positive results. Now I know the 746 Volvo ones are supposed to be the best but these were free and they're also a 4 hole design. Is there anyway I can clean these myself or do I need to take/send them to someone to have them refurbished? Would the cost of doing this be more so than just buying a brand new set of injectors?

I think if you could make replica tailgate handles you'd have some business

This might actually be perfect, does he sell online anywhere or do I have to PM him?

Pretty clean XJ with a supposed dana 44, although the owner says it's running rough. Rochester NY, says he will scrap it. If you're in that area sounds pretty good, if not just for the axle. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/442688791200032/

Kind of a weird request, if you're still making these at all do you think you could make a smaller version of the fender comanche emblem, about the size of the regular 4.0 litre badge? I always wanted to put a comanche logo somewhere on the tailgate but the full size ones just look kinda weird.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but from your tips and watching a nickintime cable installation video I have deduced the following: There should be one negative cable going to the chassis, one negative cable going to anywhere that is solid metal on the engine block, and finally a cable going to the fender. For the positive connections, there should be one cable going to the positive relay, one cable connecting the alternator to a fuse, one cable connecting the fuse to the positive relay, and one cable connecting to the starter solenoid. Negative cable queries: My jeep only has 2 direct connections to the battery, one is connected to the passenger wheel well below the positive relay, and one on a bolt underneath the starter. It's a weird place, but I'm assuming its acting as the "block-to-battery" connection. I cannot find a third negative cable on my jeep. Since I cannot find a third connection, I am assuming I am missing my battery-to-fender ground, as I would think the wheel well connection counts as a chassis ground. The only reason I possibly cannot find a third connection is that it is in a hard to reach spot connecting the firewall to somewhere on the engine block, similar to nickintime's video. Positive cable queries: All 4 positive cables on my jeep were directly connected to the battery. The nickintime installation video shows only the relay and solenoid have a direct battery connection. According to google, a relay lets you use a lighter-duty switch to run things that have a more demanding power draw. So in lieu, I'm confused as to why the previous owner didn't connect the alternator to the fuse directly. Also, the fuse went from the battery to a black box on the passenger fender. I have no idea what that box is, pic attached. Also, your tip states the block-to-battery ground should be on the bolt just forward of the oil dipstick ground, and the oil dipstick ground is NOT supposed to have a direct connection to the battery, right? I think my confusion is stemming from the fact that this could be a "more than one way to skin a cat" situation; my cables may not be how everyone else's are but still work just fine. Or maybe I'm completely wrong. I apologize for asking so many questions, electrical stuff was never my strong suit and I don't want to put a cable somewhere wrong and then not have my jeep turn on.

So basically they just used the auto wiring harnesses for manual vehicles and left the 4 pin hanging? My jeep is the 5 speed and also has this connecter plugged into nothing

So I pulled the head panel off today and besides finding out the lighting harness connector was corroded just as cruiser said, it seems the wire I thought was the fender ground was actually a ground for one of the headlights???????? It was connected to an orange cap. So that means I only have two negative cables attached directly to the battery, one on the passenger wheel well and one attached to the starter motor itself. I have no clue where the third one is and I'm not sure where I should look I also believe I found where the ground should be for the battery- engine, attached pic cuz I'm not completely sure....

I was planning to do the "Big 7" battery cable upgrade and was looking for the ground locations on all the wires on my jeep. I'm not familiar with where the factory grounds should be, but I do know there was a negative ground on the firewall next to the MAP sensor. Upon inspection of my jeep, this is what I found: Of the 4 positive wires, one was connected to the alternator, one was connected to the starter solenoid, one to the positive relay (I think that's what it was) and one with a fuse to a black box on the passenger side fender. Not sure what that box is. Of the 3 negative wires, One was connected to the passenger side wheel well, one to the starter motor, and one seems to go into the passenger side headlight assembly. I will be taking the head panel off tomorrow but I assume this is the fender ground, albeit badly corroded. The firewall ground had nothing attached to it, and I don't think the other three negative ground locations were factory. So I guess my question is, should I put the wires to their factory ground locations (wherever they may be) or just attach them to where I found them? I've upload pics as well for reference:

When you say the stock hitch do you mean the ball hitch on the original MJ bumper or the one that came with the gladiator? I was looking to get a class III hitch which bolts to the frame and sits a little lower. From my measurements, the stock bumper is about 8 and 1/4 inches from it's highest point to lowest. If your gladiator bumper has the same height I don't see why it wouldn't fit.

If you think that bed is in bad condition you should see mine. Why do you think it might need to be replaced?

Stock radio out of an 88 doesn't turn on when plugged in, clicking the power button on it doesn't do anything. The LCD screen is completely blank. I went on Minuit's website and looked for the 88 section thinking it was the RX-170, but it has a 5 amp fuse which leads me to believe it is a Korean Automatic radio unit. The buttons do not look that brown though, so I am not completely sure. Original owner said it didn't work because something was stuck in the cassette player but upon removal there was nothing inside. However, the cassette cradle (pic attached) did look a little bit damaged but I don't have another reference to compare it to. Maybe someone else knows if that's how its supposed to look. The fuse attached to it was not blown and the ground wire was not corroded. I have not looked at the other fuse boxes and will plan to, as well as test the cigarette lighter as someone else on NAXJA recommended. I also plan to run through cruiser's tips as doing those might just fix the problem, hell the 13 pin connecter might just need to be cleaned, but I had pulled the radio before I knew about his website. I plan to work on it some more tomorrow but was curious if anyone else had insight before I take another crack at it.

Hearing all this makes me want to install anti theft prevention on my MJ even though I'm nowhere near the border

I'll definitely keep that in mind among cruisers tips as well

Is there a reason why? Do mexicans just really like comanches? Never heard about this for any other vehicle