VorTekX

Replacing my front wheel hub/bearing and I all the information on google was for the 2wd bearing torque specs at 175 ft-lbs. Is it the same for 4x4? Also is there a specific oil grade I should be using for the spindle to lubricate it when the bearing is finally on?

A quick visual inspection from the ones on my truck seem to be identical to the ones on the 88 Cherokee menu. Will try these.

Broke my 1/4 swivel trying to get the last bolt out with my impact. To be fair it was a chrome socket, but I guess you have to learn the hard way sometimes. I can't imagine trying to work on a salt truck

I can't find any on the 88 comanche drop down menu unless I'm not looking in the right spot.

Update: 1/2 bolt extractor plus some mapp gas and PB blaster did the trick! No idea why those bolts were 12-point to begin with

The 3 13 mm 12 point bolts holding the wheel bearing to the knuckle are stripped and I'm not sure what to do to get them off. I used my impact wrench with the 13 mm socket but now it only spins when trying to unbolt them. I can't hammer the 12 mm into the bolt head as its just slightly too small. I know people who weld old bolt heads onto these things to get them off but I unfortunately do not have access to a welder. Is there any other tricks I can try to get them off before I have to take my truck to a mechanic? I'm going to try using map gas tomorrow as well.

Looking to do this mod myself but I can't really justify almost 800 for a brake conversion kit, probably will have to go the junkyard parts route

https://teraflex.com/1991-06-dana-chrysler-rear-disc-brake-conversion-kit.html From a quick google search. Maybe this is a knockoff? Either way almost 800 for a conversion kit seems like a lot

After that much of the cab is removed is it it even possible to piece it back together? I know the back end of the frame can be chopped up but it sucks it can't be used whole

Good thing I just bought a D44, perfect upgrade when I rebuild it

Do you have the automatic transmission? I have the 5 speed Peugeot so I wouldn't try towing 5k but would upgrading to an AX-15 work?

If you really really love it you could save it. Hate to see MJ's get scrapped but yea its definitely a lot of work/ money. Since you're in Sweden Idk how plentiful spare parts like a spare long bed are but maybe you could turn it onto a flat bed if the box is that rotted lol

I was looking at that one as well but I guess considering that "clean" depends on your welding skills and whether or not you have the equipment to repair it....... which I have neither of lol

If you're on FB join the MJ buy/sell/trade group, guy had an ad up for 3 weeks for a rust free short bed in PA that no one snagged so I ended up taking it. I was looking for 8 months though so you gotta keep your eyes peeled.

Why would they chop that up? Front end collision?

Had a similar situation but it turned out it was my battery, thank God. But if I ever get no crank and see a plunger like that lying on the ground I know where to look next

So I finally had time to look at the front end of my truck in depth and literally all the bushings are shot (from what I can see just looking in the wheel well) . On top of that it the steering knuckles, swaybars, etc all have such a thick layer of rust that I almost don't want to put new bushings on them without replacing them first. Maybe theres been worse, but to me it looks pretty bad. Don't know where to start with this.

Thought he was Matt's son. Maybe I'm wrong

I think the whole point of his series is that he learns along the way

Used wheels were put onto stock rims that I got with my truck. Vibrations did not change from when I got serviced at the tire shop vs before I went. Bushings are certainly overdue and I'll check the driveshaft for any play.

My truck is stock suspension, on 29's I think. I don't think I was ever able to outdrive them. I'm away from home now but next time i'm by the jeep I'll take it for a drive again.

ones I bought with the truck were balding in the front. Got different ones that were used, not bald. I've had unbalanced tires before and this shake doesn't match the vibrations I'm getting tho. HOWEVER, I did not align it because I was still debating going with a lift or not, which probably is contributing to the issue.

The vibrations I'm getting aren't death wobble or anything. I get a constant, slight albeit noticeable shake when driving around 60. Sometimes it eases and sometimes it increases. Everything in the cab just......rattles? You can definitely see the shifter and steering wheel vibrate, loose trim pieces as well. I assume this is just because it was an old jeep built in 88, but I do need to redo my front discs/ shocks so I feel like that could be a contributing factor as well. Does anyone know of any ways to reduce these vibrations or do I have to live with it?

Looking at an MJ with no title that I would use for parts, but may want to retitle it in the future. I was always told to stay away from things like that but it seems like most parts cars are sold with bill of sale/no title simply because the owners just had them sitting on the property forever and just lost the title somewhere in their house, not that the vehicle was stolen. Has anyone ever bought a vehicle with no title and is it difficult to retitle? Should I just steer clear of this offering?

To date the only one I've seen driving was my own. You don't see many classics being daily driven where I'm from