VorTekX

Looking for a 3 link kit used in good condition. Was mainly looking for an IRO kit or Cavfab alpha but similar kits probably would work.

Leaning going to long arms if I do end up welding and not frame swapping. IRO and cavfab 3 links looks like a pretty straightforward install. That being said, is installing frame stiffeners required as well? I only really see this truck doing overlanding at most. No extreme crawling.

Here is a picture of a 96 XJ I parted out a while back. As you can see the control arm area does not look at all like the MJ mounting area. That was my concern with sourcing an XJ for the metal. Did that mounting design change in the later years for the XJ? My MJ is an 88, if the XJs from 88 have an identical structure then it would work.

I know there were some minor differences between the MJs and XJs. Is control arm area the exact same or was the metal thicker on MJs?

After a hiatus I started working on my truck again only to discover that there is frame rot underneath the drivers control arm mount. the pictures shown are after I had hacked away at it and tried to pull as much stuff from inside the area. Was pretty upset about this. At this point, I would assume it would be best to through in the towel but I have already bought so many parts for this thing. The whole truck was pretty rusty so I had already acquired new fenders, doors, cab corners, floors, rockers, and a bed as well. I am still disassembling everything in order to overhaul the rest of the frame/ metal but before this I had not found any rot in other locations on the truck. Truck has a healthy running engine and always starts when I need it to. It has no other electrical issues. From what I was thinking, I only have two options: 1. Continue stripping/wire wheeling the truck like I already was. If no where else has rot like pictured, I get a donor section from another MJ or even an XJ (If that's even possible?) and weld the subframe section in. 2. If the rust ends up being way too extensive, just pull all the good parts/ drivetrain on it and find a roller chassis to reassemble it. I had already purchased a mig welder and a plasma cutter in preparation for the cab so I do not need any additional equipment. I would just need to practice welding beforehand as its not something I have ever done. Looking to see if anyone else has had rot like this, and how did you handle it?

Curious to see if the smoked lenses have reflectors on the sides as well? Can't really tell in the product pictures.

Thanks for the replies. I made a pallet so far but I was curious if anyone knew offhand what the weight of certain dana 30 components were? I'm only shipping the housing, diff, and knuckles. Fluid has been drained.

I do not have a compressor or sprayer at the moment but I would have to buy one from harbor freight. I have a friend who owns a 3 gallon which is no where near enough. I do have a place that I can use as a temp paint booth. I have a respirator and painting coveralls. I have a 5 in orbital sander. All my panels and bed aside from the cab are not attached to my truck right now so I would be doing them piece by piece. I could buy sanding blocks from HF as well. In the event I cannot buy a compressor, I am not opposed to a rattle can job. Obviously this is not going to come out the best but I intend to wheel this thing a bit anyway so I don't want something I'll feel bad about scratching up. I just don't want it to look awful with rust flaking off while I'm driving down the road. Lol. If you have tips on doing it that way I wouldn't mind going that route. It may be cheaper compared to buying the equipment and paint needed for a compressor job. I do intended to POR15 the frame as well but the prep for that is far easier/straightforward than body panels.

That's my plan. It doesn't need to look good, just protect the metal. I'll eventually repaint it better when I'm older with more money and facilities.

Trying to tackle painting my MJ..... never done this before and it seems super overwhelming. I have some panels that have really good paint, clear coat is still intact etc, and other panels that have faded clear coats with rust spots. The worst paint on a panel I have has paint flaking off from the primer, which you can see exposed underneath. I know for rust spots I have to sand down to metal and apply filler but for the paint what grits do I start at? From my understanding, paint that's still in good shape shouldn't need a lot of sanding so I should use a finer grit (600-800?). With the non clear coat/ flaking paint, I should start with a more abrasive grit (320?) and go to a finer one (800?). Is this the right approach?

Honestly I think a better question would be would an 88 front ba-10 driveshaft work with a 96 AX-15?

I should have specified, I meant driveshaft........ no idea why I wrote axle :(. Would be keeping my stock 88 D30 and using the 96 tranny and 96 front driveshaft. If that's possible that is.

If not, what do I need to purchase to make it work? The transmission from the 96 will be eventually going into my truck so that isn't changing.

Where did you get the decal made? Might do this with the stock pioneer sticker.

Never done this before. Do I need to build the pallet? What carriers/ methods are the best for shipping? Did some quick reads and found that Amtrak can ship but on their website it says they suspended that service. I don't know of any small freight companies off the top of my head. Not sure if UPS or similar could be more convenient. Buyer is paying full shipping cost but I would like to get it cheaper for him. Any advice relating to this is appreciated.

Thank you

I should have clarified. Those connectors are just similar to the ones that came off of the wire that ran to the starter solenoid, I just did not have a picture. I couldn't find any info about the specific gauge wire for the solenoid connection. I need to solder a new one as the one from my old starter was crimp connected.

Does anyone know what gauge the wire going from the starter solenoid to the wiring harness is? And what type of connector these two female ends are called?

The starter doesn't fit because amazon sent me the completely incorrect part. I ordered it over a month ago and was busy so I didn't open it until now. I don't think I can get my money back. It was supposed to be this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Y86TIS/ref=pe_386300_440135490_TE_simp_item_image

The hammer trick did not work. Additionally the wire which runs from the positive relay was connected using a crimp connector. Pretty awful. Turns out the replacement unit from amazon does not fit my truck. Are there any starters on rock auto that are good?

Not sure if this qualifies as "covered" but this is what it looked like.

All other electrical systems work

Stalled my truck and afterwards the starter would just click when turning the key. No crank whatsoever. I had just replaced my battery and verified my alternator was working. I had bypassed the ballast resistor and it had started fine twice before that. I bought a new starter in case this one is just bad, but how could stalling make a starter die? Is it just stuck or completely dead?

Was the fiberglass on that MJ front clip damaged at all?

How did you prep the metal for the POR15?