VorTekX

Looks like the "cruise" tier one upper and lower bundle is 319 on their website. Howhas the handling on the truck improved with them?

Something like this wouldn't be too bad

Looking for a rollbar that could fit into the MJ bed ideally within the NY metro area. It doesn't need to be MJ specific just similar looking. Not looking to spend a ton on this, so it doesn't need to be in great shape either just not rotting.

It looks like the Mj ones are bent downwards, not inwards. Do you have any issues with rubbing on these? Or do they have enough clearance

I know the WJ arms are a popular upgrade for allowing tires to clear without rubbing, but are there any curved tubular options available? All the old threads I've read have dead links to products that don't exist and I can't seem to find any bent inwards in my searches.

Did you paint the frame under the cab as well?

Did you put POR15 in the inside of the frame/ did you coat the POR15 with another paint? I bought the supplies to do that as well but supposedly you need to coat it with something else to protect it from debris

Went to home depot and got a 5 in 1. Using that, a crowbar, careful precision with the rotary tool, and a hammer I was able to get it done. Thanks for the help!

Will be back home tomorrow and will attempt. Don't have much time for the truck as I travel for work.

I unfortunatly don't own a welder.

I'll go pick one up next time I'm by home depot

I think ive gotten all the other bolts off, would just rocking it side to side be enough? Don't want to damage the input shaft

When trying to disconnect an AX-15 from a 4.0, I stripped one of the E-12 bolts on the upper mounting hole. My bolt extractor kit failed to work. I tried using a Dremel to cut off the head and then drill it out, but now I got a bit stuck in the hole and I would like to not damage the bell housing when trying to take it apart. Any ideas on what to do? Are there any specialized drill bits that could help?

So good news, spraying some contact cleaner on the brown and black terminal ends and bypassing it with some copper wire fixed the issue! Now, are there any good universal ballast resistor replacements that are available at places like autozone or advance auto? Would prefer not to wait a week for a rockauto shipment......

Will do this next time I’m free

Ok so here’s an update: took both the battery and alternator to autozone. Autozone says the battery’s bad and the alternator is fine. Got a new battery and put it in and the truck fired up under its own power but then died again after startup. So it’s definitely not the battery. If it wasn’t building fuel pressure then I think it would just continue to try and try to start, but I’ll test it anyway when I have a chance. Not sure what else it could be.

It’s coated in the same amount of oil when I first bought the truck. I did not spill any other oil on when I did the change.

I’ll take both these things out of my truck tomorrow. If either of them are bad, well I have my answer. But if they both come back as good I’ll post here for more answers.

Like the title says my truck starts then dies, but only after a jump start. It will not start under its own power. The starter clumsily cranks once or twice and then starts rapidly clicking. The starter made that noise a year ago so I swapped the battery that I’m using now. To jump, I’m using one of the portable battery packs so once power from it stops the truck stops as well. This started happening this morning after I changed the oil, filter, air filter, and fixed a vacuum leak. The last time I had the truck running was about 2 weeks ago with a vacuum leak and I had to tap the gas to get it to start (this was after charging the battery, replacing fuel pump and filter). When first attempting to start it slowly cranked. It wasn’t consistent. I tried charging the battery to 12.01 volts and the same issue still occurred. I then took my battery packs and jumped it which did work, until about 30 seconds in and then it would sputter and die (the first round I had 3 consecutive starts 15 seconds apart). I tried again after a couple minutes and neither battery pack I owned would even start the jump start sequence (it just said “connect to battery” on the LCD even though it was connected). My gauges never read more than 9 volts in the brief window that the truck ran. The fuel pump also noticeably stopped priming when in the start position although it was priming this morning. My hunch is that either the battery is bad despite being a year old, the alternator is dead, or something else entirely that I don’t know. I’m leaning towards the alternator simply because of the low voltage after jumping, as well as similar experiences with my daily, but is there anything else I should check first? I have not tampered with any wiring.

Do you have pics of the back?

Just ask them what brand/ part number they sourced the electrical connectors for their MJ taillights (part #5909)

Did some quick google searching and zooming in on their website pics and it seems to be that this is the connecter they're using: https://www.google.com/search?authuser=1&sxsrf=AB5stBhf26PV7wu5qftP09Ybuj9FB-1Wcg:1689814106735&q=AMP+electrical+connectors&tsm=3&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj9uMWMiJyAAxXRFmIAHV07DIsQ0pQJegQICBAB&biw=1920&bih=941&dpr=1#imgrc=yM_bXuoXpcRdQM I have a set of the oracle lights at my house but I will not be home till Friday night. Will verify if these are the matching connectors then. If they are, I'll PM you about shipping the material.

How were you planning to make it? Maybe if I have some time I could gather materials and try it out. Just buy the same gauged wire and solder the respective reproduction connectors to the ends, right?

With the recent release of the LED's, I was just curious if you have/ are still planning to make a prototype?

Just found it. Was under an electrical connecter and couldn't see it.