Classy Comanche

Okay no synthetic. Won't do it. Did find this. It's Dex/Merc Valvoline transmission fluid in a 1 gallon jug at Walmart. It does say ATF. I'm looking for anything that says Dex/Merc III on it and it's either I find this stuff or like full synthetic Merc III [Which I absolutely am not using

I ordered 6 bottles of transmission fluid from rockauto. For the I6 automatic transmission. I bought the red valvoline bottle. I do not plan to have my transmission fluid changed because I don't want any small metal shards to escape out through drainage and that be helping with the shifting and cause it to then start slipping. So I plan to just add to it as I go. God knows when the fluid was changed last. Smells putrid and isn't black. Definitely ain't red either. I just kinda plan to add to what I already got

Alrighty. I'll go pick up some, even the ones on rockauto say synthetic which is odd

Okay good! So would the full synthetic be okay to add in? I'm not....per say going to drain it, I'm just adding to it. It shifts good and all. Just want to keep it that way. I have Dexron IV

Oh yeah fun stuff....also had a small tiny little vac line disconnected too. I pulled it up and wedged it between two hoses until I figured out where it went, figured out it goes just slightly above the other that was also disconnected. I drove it a day and noticed almost nothing except for the slightly above average "idle in park" which was not high. But you can tell. So I pulled this hose under my air filter box while letting the engine run and that seemed to be the last peice of the puzzle. It almost seemed like it was idling at 800-825 with this small one hanging free as well

Oh wow, that sucks....man I thought those would've been a semi good fit. Well. Unique they are indeed!

What about the Dodge Ramcharger taillights? Those look almost identical to the Comanche tail lights since they are so illusive and almost impossible to find

Update: Had a disconnected vac line! Engine was screaming at me while idling. I was playing with hoses and bumping connectors and long and behold this line was dangling and causing my 1100+ rpm idles and almost 2000 rpm cranks! Idles smooth and low now, no jerking when going in reverse. Although I burned almost a 4th of a tank troubleshooting this

Oh I don't plan on mixing fluids and making a concoction. My dipstick is kinda dry. Shifts good and goes into gear smoothly. I just have no idea what was in it and have no record of it

Well. They said that it's....yeah improved? Would I have any worries of the transmission messing up with it being synthetic? I've never added transmission fluid to it. Ever

I went to advance auto and looked at transmission fluid. My truck does need some. What do you guys run? At the store they said it calls for Full Synthetic ATF. Which I purchased and as seen below. I'm not pouring it in until I know for sure this stuff it okay. I don't want it to burn the transmission up being to this. This is Dexron VI

I have a hitch built into my bumper from factory

And here's a separate video that I couldn't post due to the size being to large and posting the other 3. You can hear the rpms go up as I change gears 20220903_230411.mp4

So I'm back....again. So I can't tell if I have high idle or not. I notice if I put my truck in gear from park to drive it drastically changes. In drive its normal. When in park or neutral the rpms go up. It is night when I did this experiment but I don't know if I need to park it and have it checked over before I continue to drive it. I'm growing increasingly concerned. I've had plugs, plug wires, distributor cap replaced along with the butterfly valve cleaned. Something else I've noticed is that when I put it in reverse. It jerks. Pretty hard. I have no idea what's going on and I'm considering parking it. Like I said I know it's pitch dark but in going off sound here and wondering what it going on with it specifically jerking going in gear in reverse and why the rpms are up going from drive to park/neutral 20220903_225737.mp4 20220903_231035.mp4 20220903_231132.mp4

That is super odd. I've seen a silver MJ around here with them, but mine don't have them. Maybe the inside of the tailgate was refurbished?

Big time. Definitely runs soooooo much better. Glad this start up isn't a bad thing. But I can tell a huge difference. Before I bought it the truck was only ran once a week. And before that the truck sat for 2 years without running and before that! Was driven once a week to the drugstore or grocery store by my great grandparents. It had maintenance done. Just needed it again badly after settling for 2+ years under a shelter. If it weren't for me pestering my grandfather to sell it to me to save it it'd be rotting away today- actually it would be crushed. 9 months after a I bought it a huge Oak tree fell on the shelter and pancaked it.

Most definitely! That's definitely on my list next to do next. I'm 100% looking into that guide. The mechanic I go to knows all of cruisers guides and I've been talking to him and you guys and he said he will do that next time I go up there. The butterfly valve is sqeaky shiny clean, idles so smooth and noticed it has about a 0.5 of a second faster start. Glad the this sounds healthy. Guess I was so used to it sounding "sick and tired" that I've never heard one do this before. Like I said I'm just worried I'd start it one morning it high rev then- BANG, then engine blows for a sudden high rev

Oh well that I didn't know! I guess that tune up really got my engine back to what it was supposed to be! As for the "air restrictor" os what I called it. It's like a....a small hose. It was near my air filter box. I'll show a quick photo and attach it. But yeah I every since I bought the truck it had a lower almost small sputtering idle to it. The plugs that were taken out looked rough and my plug cables and distributor was covered in a decent amount of coolant from previous bottle splits and explosions. Truck runs great and has a higher noticeable idle as well which I expected from new plugs and all.

Oh wow really? Its always had lower tone start previously. Does yours do this? Because this is definitely new territory for me. I know the renix motors are notorious for doing this but I didn't know that sounded healthy? She definitely has more pep in her step when taking off. That's for sure with the tune up I had done today.

So I'm coming back to this thread. Cruiser you said your Comanche high revs when you crank it right? Now Mines doing it every start. I had the butterfly valve in my throttle body cleaned along with a new air filter, plugs, plug wires and distributor cap. Is this high rev detrimental? That's the key thing I'm wanting to know. I do plan to have my sensors replaced too. IAC being one. But here's a video I attached so everyone can compare on how mine cranks to yours. The air restrictor was also taken off so it could improve breathing. 20220902_185159.mp4

Had new plugs, wires and distributor cap installed today. The truck is so much more responsive. But it idles higher and higher cranks. Is that normal? Does a engine take time to get used to new parts as such? Also here's two videos of the truck starting and the truck idling then being shut-off. Does it every start when I drive it 20220902_185159.mp4 20220902_185342.mp4

So I have actually purchased the Bosch O2 Sensor and plan to have it put in tomorrow actually along with some other things. I got it because it had a "red heart" beside is which means I assume best seller. Best seller means good part? And because I've also heard of Bosch before. I can't for sure say which one is better I just went off of the red heart beside it and the name I recognized and i do have the part on hand ready to be installed. Some other guys on here I know would know!

I do have a replacement cap and rotor. I bought them as a bundle as a option on here. I think it's brass? But I definitely do have a replacement set. Truck definitely feels sluggish on take off and going up hill.

So I'm taking my truck for some odd and end tune-ups Friday. Doing serpentine belt, plugs and wires. Got all my stuff from rockauto.com and was wondering if these trucks are able to run....I won't say any kind of plugs but can they run what I've purchased? These have pure copper cores. I've been told these trucks love copper parts, like they run better. I was curious as to see if anyone has used these plugs before or what. I'm also having my distributor cap and rotor replaced as well. For that one I bought the one that had the distributor rotor included. Truck feels sluggish on take off and I believe it simply needs a refreshing tune up as such. But thank you guys so much, just curious on the plugs is all

That makes sense. It'd more than likely be the master cylinder, vacuum hose or the O2 sensor? which I luckily will be having pit on along with new air filter, plugs, cable plugs....etc. Small odd and end stuff