oleskool

Same to you, I am always out wrenching on something and willing to lend any help where I can!

My new neighbor's is the SWB Burgundy one on the Indian Land side. I just moved last year from Tega Cay to that side of Fort Mill. I know of the red one that I used to see around Carowinds BLVD. The silver one I have not seen that I am aware of.

Thank you! I've been waiting to see yours with the lift installed. I have been trying to hold off the bug to lift mine and keep it stockish haha. What's funny is my neighbor has a short bed that he drives almost everyday too. I went from seeing almost no MJ's around town to 3 lol.

It’s helped me with a dead coolant temp sensor, injector firing issues and many other things. Totally worth it.

My 89' had a strange situation similar to that where it would crank up cold just fine but after about 15 - 20 minutes of running it would shut off and not crank up for 20-30 minutes. Long story short after checking many other culprits, I remembered another similar issue I had with another jeep where the ICM heated up due to an internal short and would cut out power after it heated up to much internally. The next time it shut off as mentioned above I poured water over the ICM and it fired right back up.

Well after the external slave swap I had a trans leak. Oddly enough it was coming from the shift tower. I guess the gasket got shifted when I put it back together. So while I was fixing that issue I went ahead and installed the mating heat deflector that I didn’t install when I put in the new full console. I also threw on the new shifter dust cover since I was in there and mine was non existent.

Thank you. I tried to document as much as I could along the way. Next up is paint and body work! I love that blue too. It takes me back to my childhood in the 80’s 😂

Finally found a minute to throw this guy on! Now she looks like she is part of the 80’s!

Managed to finally track down a brushgaurd after a year of looking. Can’t wait to have this thing cleaned up and mounted 😊

Also swapped out the Orings on the oil filter adapter. Not a bad job but it was a pain in the @$$ finding one of the orings. The kits available always had the wrong size for one position.

Well life has been hectic but starting about 1 month ago I would go to start the truck after sitting all night and with the clutch pushed in the truck still wanted to lurch forward while cranking. A couple pumps of the pedal and boom we have a working clutch again 😢. My internal slave lasted a whopping 1.1 years 😂. So this weekend was external slave swap. Luckily I picked an AA bellhousing kit for cheap locally 3 months after I swapped the internal slave the first time. It’s an easy swap of you don’t mind pulling the drivetrain 😂 so far everything is working as they should 😃

Someone pull that bumper and ship it to me here in SC . Seriously I will pay for the bumper plus your time and shipping. Been looking for a nice one for a long time

Sign me up, I will need one. I refuse to cut the harness to put in aftermarket lights

That is what I ended up doing, just purchased a few extra and put them in a container for later haha

I know they are failed, that is why I went through the trouble of replacing them. I ordered the specified FelPro kit but it did not have this O-RIng in the kit. I ordered the Doorman kit as well that supposedly had the correct O-RIng and it did not. I have ordered a single O-RIng and I am waiting for it to arrive, in the meantime I replaced all other O-RIngs that did come in the Felpro kit and put it back together. At least this one is fairly easy to get to so I will replace it when it arrives next week. All the O-RIngs in the system looked like this lol, flat, hard, and brittle!

Does anyone know the part number for this oring. I’ve got the felpro kit and the doorman adapter master kit with zero luck.

I went through and re verified the ground circuit and cannot find any type of short in the wiring. I measured off the FI harness, TPS harness, etc and no indication that a ground is bad. I did look at the #4 and #2 injectors and noticed a little green corrosion on the plugs in the dielectric grease I applied when I swapped out injectors 2 years ago. I cleaned all that out, used a contact file to polish the terminals down and reapplied dielectric grease. I did use my voltmeter to probe around while the connectors were off and they all read the same as the #1 injector so.... I am not sure where to go from here lol. It doesn't make sense that I have a short to ground on Inj 2 and 4 when it is 30 degrees out but not after it warms up a little unless the injector ground internally is shorted. I believe these injectors are fired by grounding through the PCM. After it warms up for a few minutes and you do a restart the truck runs like new again and continues to do so all day long repeatable. On a side note it was upper 40's this morning and it fired up perfect Everything on the REM looks to be in spec, and the truck went into closed loop at around the 45 second mark which means the heater circuit and coils in the O2 are good. I find it hard to believe that I have 2 injectors internally shorting ground when its cold but I have seen stranger things happen. I will swap injectors if this happens again after my connector refresh and see if the code stays or follows them. It sucks that I can only repeat this in the morning after the truck sits all night and is completely cold soaked lol and the temps need to be below freezing apparently which are few and far in between this time of year... At least my fuel mileage is still between 16 - 20 mpg depending on how much stop and go traffic I end up in.

I was wondering the same.

Here is how the O2 responds after I shut it off and crank it up. IMG_2265.MOV

Here’s what I get code wise.

My fault code is lean as well as Injector #2 and #4 short to ground... Couldn't tell you what O2 is in it, the truck sat for 10 years and I have not replaced it lol. Seemed to be working fine up until now though. The Injectors run this code until a let the truck warm up a bit ~ 100 degrees F water temp. If I cycle the power no more codes . I have not had time to check out the injectors themselves or the wiring. I have checked the wiring grounds in the past and all were good but that does not mean they can't change. Its almost like the injector short out inside and as they thermally grow it goes away lol. I have seen this with other systems but I an not sure how our injectors work so it may not be possible. Any assistance on injector test besides manually swapping 2 and 4 with other locations to see if it follows them or stays with the wiring is greatly appreciated!

I grew up in Asheboro and live in Charlotte now. You might see my truck come through every 3-4 weeks when I head back home to help the parents out with things now that they are older.

I have had this happen randomly twice in the past and now two days in a row. 29 degrees this morning and yesterday morning when I went to start the truck up. It fires up but idles rough (sound wise) (RPM wise it is fine) and noticeably sounds like it is skipping a little when you rev the engine. After a few minutes I get a Loop Fault code on the REM and this morning I got Injector 2 and 4 fault as well. If I let it idle and warm up to roughly 150~ water temp and cycle the ignition it fires up normally and runs great the rest of the day. It appears the O2 sensor is cycling properly from 0-5V depending on the condition but I will try to reverify this. It also appears that the O2 heater circuit is working and is at 14V. Is it possible for the heater inside the O2 to burn out and if so is there a quick way to test it? Or would there be another issue I am missing here. It appears the engine wants to go into closed loop but cannot or will not do so when its cold. After it warms up or the outside temps increase to ~40 or 50F its fine. Thanks for all the assistance!

See the two sides that project to the front and rear of the truck? Press those tabs and wiggle it. If it’s been there for a long time it will take some work to get it to release. It’s just a plastic clip and and oring inside holding it into the regulator.

One last touch. Added the cup holder in! For less than $10 on Amazon it was worth it.