howeitsdone

Searched & Searched but couldn't find a topic. A heater core is less expensive if I buy a '94+ type. Is there really a difference? The pictures look identical. I am converting to open cooling and wondering if putting in a later model core would work. My current core is non-functioning so I have to replace anyway. If it matters, I don't have A/C. Also, does that matter? Wouldn't think so...

Drove it around the block yesterday. Brakes just about hit the floor before stopping. I seem to have good pressure, but something in the chain is off. Going to have my brother take a look at them today to diagnose. I also still need to address the cooling system this week or next. I'm going to convert. I found a write-up that was very simple and to the point. Just replaces hoses, radiator, and reservoir. I'll need the pump & housing replaced down the line, but doing this is actually only a little more expensive than replacing a closed-system rad. Forgot to mention the license plate came in! I was very surprised no one had taken this already.

Thanks man! Nowhere near complete but starting to look it at least! Those wheels don’t hurt either! Did you do 4 or 5 leaf? I’ve seen them anywhere between $600-$1100. General is about $560 shipped. I move to Utah in November and I’m thinking of finding a shop out there to avoid the shipping costs.

The old tires finally made it to the ground! Rear sitting pretty tired it appears. Will need to address new leaf springs I fear. (Not a cost I was looking forward to) BUT it's honestly my favorite part now of just tearing the insides apart and getting it a little healthier on the inside as well as the engine bay. Certainly a few items to diagnose in the bay as well as a discovered radiator leak showing when I filled it up. Certainly not going to win any beauty contests, but at least I'm 1 step closer!

Didn't know JK8 was a thing. I have seen only 1 other that had this done and that was years ago. I personally dig the style even if there is no gap. I mean, isn't it a solid floor anyway? You'd have to cut like an inch out just to have a gap and then have no hope of putting back to stock without welding it back.

What an interesting Jeep! 10,000x better than the Gladiator IMO. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4708048965894209/

That’s actually more if what I thought based on where it fell. But when underneath I couldn’t pinpoint a connection nipple on the TC or the Transmission itself. After Googling just now I see it’s at the top. I’ll check that in the AM. Thanks.

At first I thought the same, but I can’t remember the axle side having a hose clamp like this hose does. But I am missing that hose currently. I will figure out the routing of that hose to see where it should connect up top and check back. Thanks for the insight.

A random hose ended up falling underneath when bleeding my brakes. Does anyone have any idea what this may go to? The plastic end was under the brake booster area.

I actually received a couple from Ryan that are OE so I may just use those since they aren't damaged. I've traced the lines from the front to the rear and they appear in good shape. Some new fittings are needed though.

Slow progress recently. Had to have RC send out some new leaf spring center pins since they didn't send the right sized nuts in the kit. My brother took the leaf to the shop and pressed out the old bushings that were seized and put in the new ones for me. Was not really planning on removing the rear axle, but since it was so easy I had to do it. I got it cleaned up and threw down some fresh POR-15. Finally getting to that point where most of the big stuff is out of the way and now it's time to tackle all of the remaining little items before it's drivable. Got 4 of Rusty's D35 U-Bolts and the threads appear to be too short for the AAL, but I won't know until I piece it all together. When I called them they said it would work. I'll also have to flare some brake lines in the rear since one twisted off when trying to remove. If I'm buying the tool might as well replace all the rusted ones. All the rear lines have been replaced at some point except for the ones to the wheels. Whoever did the job probably didn't care much so it's a little mess back there.

That’s what I used for most things. But it’s off just enough.

Here is the '89. Font isn't exact as I'm not sure what was used, but it's close. Again, please check for accuracy. I'll work on the '87 next.

It's loose-ish. Just married to the bushing so doesn't do much to turn it. I've got the exhaust hanging on by a literal thread right there so didn't have the room. I'm going to cut it just after the CAT and I'll have the room for a punch and BFH. I couldn't figure out a good method for the BJ press anyway.

Replaced the rear brakes today. First time with drums and can easily say I hate 'em. lol The first one took maybe an hour or so to learn what the heck was going on. Then the 2nd side took maybe 5-10 min. Pretty simple once you get it down, but still a PITA either way. I did have a 2nd set of hands though, so I imagine the re-install would have taken a bit longer by myself. I attempted to replace the front lines with some YJ lines, but lucky for me I purchased the early years and it didn't quite work. So those are now returned and I've got some '95s on the way. Not a huge deal again since it's not going anywhere quite yet. An interesting thing happened with the front brake hose that I removed though. I took a torch to the nut to get it nice and hot, then I sprayed with some PB. As soon as I walked over to the toolbox to set the can down I heard a BANG and it didn't smell good. I walked over to see that the hose had blown off of the metal adapter and sprayed any remaining fluid all over the place. Glad I had walked away, and certainly a great thing to be aware of. I'll know for the passenger side and be more cautious. I bet that fluid sitting there was super hot. Anyway, going to try and finish the AAL tomorrow. Still have quite a few things to do other than those brake lines so still plenty of work.

I grabbed the photos from the old thread from @fiatslug87 for '89 & '90 and will work on those this weekend. A great example of exactly what kind of photos are needed for any decals. Thanks for this. Can you verify the width is 9"? I know they changed in 90, but I only have measurements for '88 & '89. Did it not have the vacuum diagram on there? That blank space looks very odd. Also can you verify the top right code for the barcode? It looks the same for '87 as '88 but want to make sure.

Are people actually interested in these? I'll get a post in the classifieds going if so. CollinsBros sells a few of the others, but wondering if there are any other decals needed. Just need folks to send me photos first

Dobbins ARB and Lockheed Martin are about 15min south of me. They're always flying C-130, F-22, and whatever else they are testing. When we were kids and lived a few miles from there, they would fly over the house in groups and everything fell off the walls

I sort of had the same issue but opposite. The spring would catch on the bump stop flange. But IIRC once I put the wheels on and got under a load it all sorted itself out. Then I tightened everything. There's a chart around here that has proper control arm lengths per height of lift too that helped. Not sure if you can tell in the pic, but I didn't even have my UCAs on yet and this bend got worse once they were.

Can you get me photos like these? I need every detail. I don't believe the bottom portion changed, just the info.

Got the 88 4.0 finished. If someone can get printed then it should be good to go (You'll need PDF obviously). Or if enough people are interested, I can just order some of each year we get created and sell them. Can someone look it over to verify accuracy? Mine is a little worn in a spot or 2. If someone can get me a pic of the 87 4.0 I can alter to match.

Ebay is usually a good source, but sometimes expensive. I would add something about the gear in your post title. Might bring someone in who can help with the one you already purchased.

Working on it. The vacuum diagram sucks but I'll have it done eventually.

Maybe, but since I have the 2nd one I'd rather try that one out. It really only takes 5-10min to replace. Once I replace though I may just experiment and test that theory out.

It's a tough one for sure. If the bolts didn't get frozen within the bushings it would be a breeze. I have no problem taking a torch to the nut, but getting a cut-off in there producing tons of spark is scary. I suppose I could go get a welding blanket and stuff it. I'll have to play that one by ear.