MJRemi

That's a great spot! I just screwed mine down behind the relay panel near the battery. Much easier to get to if needed. Your spot is easy and tucked out of the way. Good job!

Don't forget to get your mom signed up as a new member.

My battery was weak and the charger I bought from Sears did not work so I returned it and bought a new battery off Craigslist. It's a brand new Duralast 65 for a Jeep GC and ,yes , I also got the receipt and warranty with it. The battery was much larger than my old one so the hood latch assembly came in contact with 1/4" of the plastic "finger grip" on the side of the battery, so I trimmed it with a Dremel just enough to clear the latch. I also fabricated a new hold down tongue since the new battery was too tall for the OME tongue. This battery has 850 cca, 1000 ca, and 125 minutes of reserve. I also removed the 8 Ball shifter knob and replaced it with a plastic handle from a 4" paint roller. Image Not Found Image Not Found

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/pts/2641231548.html

I thought John92131 drove up from San Diego to get that a couple weeks ago!

Thanks Guys, I'll ask some questions of the seller. I would love to swap in a stroker but not if it's going to be an expensive PITA. I would want to upgrade the items mentioned above by Cracker. Right now, I'm only about 33% leaning toward this idea but if I can pull it off for $2000-$2500, total, then I might just take that leap.

Would I need the HO wiring harness and ECU?

Is moisture somehow entering the fuel line or fuel rail connections?

I could pick up a complete 4.6 stroker for around $1500. What modifications would have to accompany the motor to make it compatible with my 88 Grey Goose. Here is the link to give more info: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/pts/2631236984.html

Interesting shifter knobs. Could probably be modified for MJs. http://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/2627792879.html

Thank God it only hit your head, otherwise you could've gotten hurt. Glad you're OK! :D

I don't know anything about that coin but it is Very Cool!!!

The Grey Goose had a small electric fan in place of the mechanical fan. The aux fan is a curved blade XJ fan and I had an exact fan in my shed from the JY. I removed the small one and fabricated a mounting base with aluminum window framing so the "new" fan will have slots for the tabs. The double curve blade set-up moves a lot of air. Thanks, Hornbrod, for the DIY on this. I used your post as a guide to make this a quality fan set-up.

From what I have researched, the cap itself is designed to allow coolant to flow out if too much pressure builds up inside the reservoir bottle. I have not seen any reference to the coolant system utilizing an overflow hose that leads to the ground. If anyone has insight to my issue, please jump in because I am very uncomfortable driving the truck with this set-up. For what it's worth, there was quite a bit of coolant sprayed along the LCA and frame. I originally thought it was from an old coolant leak but now realize it's coming from this hose.

Hello......, is this thing on?

As I'm inspecting the Grey Goose to see what needs attention, I noticed a rubber hose hanging down near the passenger side rear engine compartment and it is not from the evap canister (that had no exhaust hose attached). I trace the hose up to the coolant reservoir bottle. It's the one that connects near the top, next to the cap. On my other truck, this connects to a tee adjacent to the heater valve and the main section comes from the radiator. On this truck, there is no tee or heater valve. I'm sure this is something the PO has done. Is this all screwed up or is it considered an "open system"? Won't the coolant just flow out the hose onto the roadway below? Correction: Other truck's connects at a Y fitting.

I was hoping to swap over my KYB shocks since they are practically new but realized the LWB rear shocks go from the rear side of the axle,angled under the axle,and up to the top mount at approx. 45* angle. I doubt the KYBs will be long enough, especially since I will be swapping over my budget lift spacers and shackles. Is this the normal placement for the LWB rear shocks? How difficult is it to relocate the upper mount location to a more vertical position? It seems to me a more vertical shock would be much more efficient and less prone to horizontal stress.

I also have ordered from them with no problems. If you 'd like to order something expensive, check out the weatherstripping. That should balance out whatever you saved on the LCAs.

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